Posts by CharlesTurner

Thanks for sharing. Hadn't seen that version before.

Not the greatest pic, but here is an original from a '65 GT. You can see the paint peeling off, most likely due to being exposed to brake fluid and rusting.

http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/65_prop_valve.jpg

You'd have to have a stack of documentation to prove this. If you look in the hi-performance parts catalog, you will see that the cost to retrofit an A code to K code specs would be about 2-3 times the cost of simply ordering a K code.

Based on what I see in the auction, all you'd be buying is a VIN.

Thanks for sharing, it is an amazing story and awesome to see the old Ace fly again. It makes me proud and at the same time humble that our cars share the same name with the P-51.

Neat car.

Quote from 66gtk

They are listing it at "wholesale price"? Umm, OK.

As if a K code fastback is a commodity item?

Quote from lscman

Wow,I thought this was an open forum to contribute what you've had,have and or seen.Since all of you who disagreed know everything about all these Mustangs and have owned them all and or worked the assembly line at all three plants I appreciate the input.

Nothing wrong with sharing your experience and observations. It's the collective experience and observations by everyone here that help answer questions and help us better understand obscure details such as proportioning valve detailing.

If you're going through the trouble of stripping to bare metal, I would recommend you lay down a coat of epoxy primer. Maybe there is a local shop that could spray it for you?

You're still confusing the warranty plate date code with casting date codes, which do not always follow the same format. Your 5C block would be correct for a car with an April '65 scheduled build date.

I assume you are referring to the scheduled build date of your car, which is designated by the DATE code on your warranty plate. What you need to understand is that Ford had to go to 2nd year month codes since the Mustang was introduced mid-year 1964 and as a 1965 model. 24R would decode to April 24, 1965. Your engine casting dates and pretty much all other date codes throughout the car would not have followed the 'R' month code for April. Instead, the normal 'D' month code would be applicable and prior months as expected.

So, to answer your question, your engine casting dates would most likely span from as early as January/February (5A, 5B), through March/April (5C, 5D).

On the machined edge that would be exposed, there would be a date stamp, like on the bottom surface where the oil pan attaches. The machined edge on the top is on the LH side, above where the oil pressure sending unit attaches, but right at the head to block area.

Well, as we all know, the term "NOS" is used very loosely. What you may possibly have is a Ford re-manufactured block and not necessarily a brand new, never used, block. I have to agree that the absence of the stamped numbers on the normal machined area would indicate the block has possibly been decked.

Trap door, front/back would be interior color. Trap door hinges would also be interior color. The latch and striker were zinc plated.

Quote from lscman

I was reading this topic and see where the spring with oldest date question wasn't answered so I wanted to ask it again.Is this referenced as the drivers side being the left side and passenger the right side where the oldest spring is put?

I can't imagine that being anything other than a coincidence, but certainly is something worth checking into. I can't speak for BoS, but when I refer to the 'left' side of the car, it is the driver side (U.S.)

Quote from lscman

The original installed ones on Mustangs were left natural and the over the counter parts were painted.Ford didn't want rust on new parts they sold over the counter is why most are painted.

I totally disagree with that. I have found many original proportioning valves with gray paint still on them or bubbling off.

I should be there, but will not be bringing a car. Most likely be flying in.

I think a 1:1 match in condition/quality would be tough to find. If all things are otherwise equal, I'd say you're probably looking at a $50-75k difference in value... obviously you know which way that goes!

If you just want a new set and not concerned about them being period correct, Summitt Racing sells them. They are expensive, but will be the last set of shocks you have to buy!

Was the 's' on "Genuine Part " left off intentionally?