Posts by CharlesTurner

You're just seeing an intended bend in the metal, most likely to allow the front to fold easier during a collision. There is nothing unique about the front sheet metal on a K code other than the VIN stamps!

Dates within 1-12 weeks before the scheduled build date of the car would be acceptable.

Quote from stevea

Do they really pay that close of attention to the date code on doors and hoods? Just asking, because this seems almost too excessive? I know nothing about judging a car or anything like that, so I am speaking from ignorance.

It's not simply a matter of date codes. Fit and finish play a big part in choosing the best parts. I've found that cars with all the factory-installed sheet metal to be some of the best, well fitting cars out there. I don't buy the "Ford threw them together" mentality. While I'm sure there were some cars that had fit problems from the factory, for the most part, I think Ford did a pretty good job. For those that have seen cars with factory sheet metal, you know what I'm talking about.

If you think you'd like to put the car back to original std. interior, I would recommend to find a car close in production from the same assembly plant with good original doors. Probably be a needle in a haystack, but something to consider. Same with the hood.

BL typically calls out "Backup Lights" when written there on a '65.

Sounds like you're going to have your hands full for a while! There's lots of resources available, much more than the late 70's! What color is the interior of your car?

For a San Jose K code around that time period, you should be looking for one with raised stamping on the top, C4ZE Y1 or G1 with "W - MO" directly below the C4 characters. Of course, no cooling line fittings on the lower tank. Y1 seems to be the predominant one for manual transmission V8's. Shelby cars have been found with G1, but we don't have any definite info on the difference.

Sorry to be a pain, but do you mean December '64 or December '65?

What year and assembly plant?

The angled head light assemblies were phased out around Sept '64 or so. Might be some early October cars.

Does that mean we get free ice cream if we win any of them?!

This has been a much needed piece for a long time. There's probably more bad repro kick panels on Mustangs than good original ones now. Is this a Daniel Carpenter reproduction? When will colors be offered and convertible versions?

Quote from 65Rangoon

As fit and function would be practically assured, I'd be inclined to search for a similarly dated donor car production firewall. Same approach for other needed sheet metal parts as well, before going repop. Lots of extra work for sure, but I think it would provide a more satisfying result on the completed restoration.

++111

So glad to see this type of recommendation instead of the typical one of buying sheet metal out of a catalog!

They're not required for concours judging, but if they are installed, they have to be the correct finish with correct hardware.

Depends on the impeller, 3 or 4 hole.

That's ok, we all have different experiences, which is why we are here to share info.

My wife has a set of Cooper tires on her daily driver and they are the worst tires we have ever used. Absolutely horrible and the tire shop could never get them balanced right. Tried to tell us the wheels were bent, but had no problems with the prior tires balancing. Will never buy that brand again. Just an FYI...

There are at least 2 versions of the long(er) tie down plates and 1 or more of the short ones. Some were painted, some were left natural.

Quote from iowa

will be sandblasting this weekend

here's my apparel for doing this!

iowa

Are you using sand to clean the car? You're going to get some major etching of the surface if so. You might consider something not quite as harsh such as starblast.

It's hard to tell the difference without holding them side by side. The rubber pad isn't a big deal to install, uses the same style staples as the splash shields.

I was told a long time ago that if you wanted a clutch that didn't chatter, buy a Ford clutch and pressure plate. I've always done that and have never had a problem. The Ford re-manufactured ones come up for sale on ebay once in a while. Fred Ballard may have some in his stock that he'd be willing to part with.