Posts by camp upshur

  • 65 Connecting Rods Part Numbers

    I run both Boss 302 and 271HP rods on my engines. The rod itself is the same. However the machining for the rod bolt head is different though, the Boss 302 being 'Spot Faced' whereas the 271HP is 'Broach Cut'.


    Many guys over the years have successfully enhanced their non 271HP rods with 11/32" rod bolts. A standard mod 'back in the day'.


    Although any of us can destroy anything, it is not usually the connecting rod which goes first on an over-raced 271HP, it is the crank. But if you run out of oil or hydraulic a cylinder you could definitely hurt a rod.

  • WTT C30E - C50E Balancer

    Any 5 bolt Fairlane guys out there?


    I have a C30E-B date E3 Balancer in great shape / I am looking to for a C50E Balancer dated C5.


    Am putting together an April 65 motor. Also looking for March 65 heads, April 65 water pump/housing and front cover or any other March-April L7 items.


    Also have a C30F-12127-D Distributor dated 3MB(oiler), Rod set, Main Caps (271HP non-mexican), Dec 64 heads, Dec 64 water pump housing/front cover, and many other K items for possible trades.


    Thanks

  • 1965 Fairlane K-Code

    Man that 65 K Fairlane is just awesome. Heck I've had (and still have) 2+2 K Mustangs for 40 years because I've never had a realistic chance at something like this when I was in the market.


    But it's nice to know that my K Mustang has as it's heart a 'High Winding Fairlane V-8'!


    This thing really has that FoMoCo 'Total Performance' look. Love that shifter. Bravo!


    Edited by - camp upshur on 01/11/2011 23:57:24


    Edited by - camp upshur on 01/11/2011 23:57:45

  • Polylocks

    With stock studs I found the poly-locks to be too tall for the open letter Buddy Bar valve covers unless the baffle/shield was removed.


    Although the standard retort of 'you're not torqueing them right' can be applied to all of the following here are some problems many have encountered with polylocks:


    They can place a strain on the final upper threads of the stud and have been known to snap the stud up within the poly lock-they must be tightened only to stress not strain-which can depend on the specific grade of the steel of the particular stud-they can be different- and sometimes softer can be better;


    When adjusting your lash one can soon see that you have to take into account the stretch when tightening the internal jam-nut. Your final lash may well change upon tightening-almost like setting the dope on a weapon;


    My Boss 302 with the stock dual nut set up (and 7/16" studs) is/was so much easier than my HiPo 289 that I ended up running dual nuts on my K motor and parked the poly-locks;


    Many though do run the poly-locks without issues FYI.

  • Pistons

    Unfortunately it isn't only a question of the piston being cast or

    forged (although forged is inherently much much stronger).


    My Boss 302 had the majority of its skirts cracked after less than 10,000 original miles (a very well known/documented problem in that community). And those original Boss 302 piston were forged-relatively heavy TRW slugs as opposed to our strutted castings.


    Skirt design, rod ratio and side loading also play into he equation as well as the eternal quest to lighten the reciprocating weight-which if properly done helps everything especially balancing--as long as you don't crack a skirt!!

  • 65 Dist date codes...revisited

    Need a little help understanding Oct-Dec '64 distributor date codes.


    My review of Tony Gregory's 'The High Performance Mustang' and Bob Mannel's 'Mustang & Ford Small Block V-8' has only further confused me.


    Bob's book, p5-40(d), shows a C5OF-12127-E FOMOCO bearing '4LE' date code (Nov'64 5th wk).


    A friend has recently shown me two of his distributors both C5OF-12127-E FOMOCOs. The first bears date code '4MB'(Dec'64 2d wk).


    The third distributor has me confused,it clearly bears date code '5KB'. Any ideas? An Oct '64 should bear date code '4Kx' and these reference manuals do not list 'K' as a date code month for calendar year 1965. It doesn't look peened or re-stamped.


    Thanks


    Edited by - camp upshur on 11/26/2009 00:07:10


    Edited by - camp upshur on 11/26/2009 02:32:13

  • VIN stamped engine

    tellerhills and cchesley,


    I've got a 1966 GT-350 (actually it's a '65 carryover) here sans original serialized motor.


    Is it a 5R09K series?


    If so, would it be possible to run this car's 'original' Ford VIN by you privately to see if perhaps we have a match?


    Thanks


    Edited by - camp upshur on 09/02/2009 21:34:37

  • 1965-66 9 inch housings at the 45th anniversary

    This certainly sounds good. Without a visual it is to hard fully consider this piece.


    Would it be possible to post some photos especially of the connection between the tubes and the center carrier?


    Are the tubes a reproduction or from an 8" banjo? (the transition from full tube diamete to the stepped down diameter is different on 8" which most of the re-makes use--still doable though).


    Thank You

  • GT350 R question

    Thank you for posting Fred.


    If ever you have any extra time, would sure be interested in those cam specs.


    Do the engine descriptions make any mention of combustion chamber relieving? In the 45 year old articles S-A really played that up.


    Best

  • GT350 R question

    Numerous period magazine articles on Shelby American engine build-ups circa 1963-1965 cite Engle camshafts, some specifically mention Engle roller camshafts. Most articles as I recall were for Cobra Weber equipped 289s or just generic S-A 289 build-ups. The snap-shots into the S-A engine building operation are illuminative but I don't recall per se an R-Model engine build-up article. As years passed many assumed it was the C7FE flat tappet, but that obviuosly didn't come around to after S-A stopped campaigning the cars. Archival research into Hot Rod, Popular Hot Rodding, Cars and Sports Car Graphic recommended. Good luck.

  • Correct steel wheels for 65-66 GT350's ???

    The KH 15x6 1965 Shelby wheels have proven to be the most elusive of all restoration pieces to find. The 15x5.5 Galaxy wheels, although rare and with a similar hub, are available periodically.


    The problem is, that to this day, an original 1965 Shelby with 5.5" wheels has never been authenticated in the flesh whereas the 6" wheels exist on survivors, original paperwork,one owner cars etc.


    The are numerable second hand stories, dismounted wheels etc regarding 5.5" wheels, usually by someone hoping to install them on a car and searching for authentication.


    http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=3004.0


    http://www.shelbyforums.com/forums/1965-19…eel-wheels.html


    Edited by - camp upshur on 03/24/2009 15:36:21

  • Barrett Jackson

    Thank you RalphJr.


    This is a 1965 GT-350 Kelsey Hayes 15x6:

    [Blocked Image: http://i40.tinypic.com/20z1o2c.jpg]


    It is a Very distinctive wheel (actually the center hub with it's very small openings-riveted to the rim) issued on these San Jose builds from FoMoCo.


    Various Hi Performance Galaxies (to include the lightweights) had a very similar wheel (with the same distinctive center hub) issued in 15x5 and 15x5.5.


    Other than mention made in Tony Gregory's book have there beeen other sightings? I am interested if perhaps this Barrett-Jackson '65 Coupe may have had this option package or if anyone here had encountered a Kar so equipped. Gentlemen??


    Thanks


    Edited by - camp upshur on 01/21/2009 18:55:20