Posts by Morsel

  • The Pony Showroom

    Here's my Kar...

    Special note: I would not mimic any of these paint marks on your Kars, these are very specific to exactly what they were marking the week my car was produced at San Jose, this is very plant and time specific.

  • Correct PCV part number for Feb 66 K-Code?

    Will do, I'll give you a call a little later in the day, appreciate all your help as always...

  • Correct PCV part number for Feb 66 K-Code?

    Haha, not confused at all because all this information is all lining up with what I currently had found (even the AC Spark Plug stamping). I've been told the round black finish one C6AZ 6A666 A was the correct one for my car, but also been told the hex natural finish C5AZ 6A666 A valve was correct for my date car as well, so I guess at this point no one really knows and could use either, obviously the hex one is way easier to find, only seen one of the round black finish one once in my travels and it was used. So I guess I'll be looking for the one with the stamping. I did find this one that seems to align with what we think to be the correct one, but pretty beat and pricey for my application and what I'm looking for... do you agree this is probably the correct one?

    Thanks again Fred,

    Jason

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/65-66-Ford…5f1cc%7Ciid%3A1

  • Car capsule

    Quote from C6ZZKGT
    Quote from Morsel

    I have one and absolutely love it, it's really saved all my natural metal parts, really cut down on flash rust. It was great to have while I was restoring parts too, I could blast them and then put them inside the capsule and it would keep them from quickly rusting sitting around... I did also add a small dehumidifier in the area which also adds some additional protection and helps as well. I went ahead and got the big dog the "Showcase" model because I didn't want to deal with the hassle of getting the car in and out of it, I liked the fact it's free standing and I can just open the back and drive in and out of it. See attached photos. I wish I had got this a long time ago and with all the money I've put into the car it was a small investment for keeping it safe...

    Jason

    Jason, I like your free standing capsule as the only ones I have seen are the ones where the air blower keeps the capsule inflated. Who makes the one that you have?

    -Fred-

    It's still made by Car Capsule, here's a link to the site.

    http://carcapsule.com/the-showcase/

    It has a blower that hooks up to it and besides circulating air in the unit, it also has an attachment to keep the over all unit full of air, so if it ever gets low, it automatically starts filling it until the pressure is back to normal. I really like this because if I ever need to work on the car in the garage, it comes down, folds up and goes back up really easily. I give this product two thumbs up for sure and well worth the money in the long run.

    Jason

  • Car capsule

    I have one and absolutely love it, it's really saved all my natural metal parts, really cut down on flash rust. It was great to have while I was restoring parts too, I could blast them and then put them inside the capsule and it would keep them from quickly rusting sitting around... I did also add a small dehumidifier in the area which also adds some additional protection and helps as well. I went ahead and got the big dog the "Showcase" model because I didn't want to deal with the hassle of getting the car in and out of it, I liked the fact it's free standing and I can just open the back and drive in and out of it. See attached photos. I wish I had got this a long time ago and with all the money I've put into the car it was a small investment for keeping it safe...

    Jason

  • Correct PCV part number for Feb 66 K-Code?

    Thanks guys...

    Fred, I've also seen this regarding the part number stamped on the valve itself stamped two ways, and I heard they were both correct for my application (see below), this is were the confusion came into play when I really started digging and found the A1 "Ford Box". But both actual valve stamps on the part I've been told are correct, but would love your opinion...

    Part# Valve Stamping:

    1) C5AZ 6A666 B

    2) C5AZ 6A666 A

    Thanks,

    Jason

  • Correct PCV part number for Feb 66 K-Code?

    OK, been chasing this one for a while and was just curious if any of you know, is the correct 66 HiPo PCV part number C5AZ-6A666-A or C5AZ-6A666-A1, or something else entirely... every time I search I come up with different answers on all forums. And if for me we can be specific as to which would be correct for my Kar, February 66 build, San Jose plant.

    Thanks as always,

    Jason

  • Exhaust Manifold Locks

    May be a silly question to some, but are you driving the car or is this a real trailered concours car that will not be driven? If you're not driving it I would do the black overspray on the cars manifolds, and definitely lock tab washers. Also, your head gaskets should be triangled tabs, depends on who's judging, but you can get marked off for those square ones. And last thing your oil filter should be double humped, like the repro red Rotunda ones and then should be painted engine color black.

    Looks fantastic though and good luck with the restoration, would love to see more pictures...

    Jason

  • Engine ModifiKation

    Hey Niko, sorry for the delayed response, didn't see this alert until today. But I think you're getting solid advice here already, and Fred definitely knows what he's talking about, the upgrades you mention don't seem to be worth it in my experience and will not gain you one thing you'll notice while driving the car as far as performance goes.

    And yes, my K engine was completely original with original rods and pistons that were in the car originally. They basically "aged" and we determined that a rod bolt gave way and the whole thing went and blew. Since I'm rebuilding my engine again from ground up, I've decided to use a lot of original items, original cam, lifters, and crank, but the pistons and rods I've decided to "upgrade" to more modern equipment because I definitely do not want this to ever happen again. As Fred said, you will not see this upgrade from the outside and should not decrease value overall unless you are building a thoroughbred, unless you drop the pan you won't notice anything different, but everything from the outside will look and remain original including all the gaskets and such on my Kar.

    As for the heads themselves, I had those done several years back and we kept things original on those except the hardened valves.

    The rest of the items such as exhaust manifolds and pretty much everything else that drives the car is original and before this happened, the Kar was a beast with a ton of power and drove absolutely perfect.

    Hope this all helps a little,

    Jason

  • Reproduction Battery source

    Quote from C6ZZKGT

    Are they still based on the Optima internals?

    -Fred-


    This is what they say about these newer batteries on their website...

    Jason

    "These are not generic batteries inside a case, they are full true AGM batteries.

    These batteries are maintenance free, utilizing the latest AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) technology so they never require adding acid or water filling. The electrolyte is trapped in the separators so the battery can't leak, even if the case is broken. They come fully charged and ready for installation. "