Quote from 65HiPoYou should take it apart to make sure White Post didn't put it together backwards. You'll know the first time you hit the brakes and they lock up. Oh, and hopefully it doesn't start leaking six months later like the one they rebuilt for me.
I had White Post do mine about 9 years ago. It has performed great and I would not hesitate to use them again. They were recommended to me at the time by Cobra Automotive.
Have you tried Grainger?
Quote from acman63Most Hardware stores stock spring washers
I agree with Jim. I rebuilt my original shifter linkage using hardware store wave washers slightly thicker than stock. Tightened things up considerably but still very smooth.
Jim,
Please be careful, you don't want to get a RUI....
Dave
I don't know about the Mobil-1 stuff as at a glance I didn't see a GL spec listed but I'll read more about it when I get a chance.
Redline specifically calls for GL-4 for trannys due to the extra modifiers for synchros. They warn against using GL-5 gear oil, which does have the friction modifiers for limited slip diffs, as it is still too slippery for synchros. I went through this with one of their tech guys before switching to synthetic ~15 years ago.
Quote from zrayquote:
You are not using synthetic gear oil now are you? I understand from David Kee that the Toploaders don't really like synthetic oil and were not designed to run with it.
they certainly weren't designed for it as synthetics didn't exist back then, but...... When I mothballed my T-10 I put in a toploader that D. Kee had restored for me & initially used conventional gear oil. When it came time to change the trans. oil I decided to try Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil. It works fine for me. The warning from D. Kee states that it does work fine for some people, but not for others. The problem is supposed to be when shifting fast, the synthetic oil doesn't provide enough friction for the gear syncros to work properly. Apparently I'm so old I can't shift fast enough to induce this problem so I'm sticking with the synthetic oil for the reduced wear benefits.
Z.Redline synthetic gear oils have different formulations for trannys than rear ends. The I've been using their MT-90, GL-4 spec, in my original close ratio T-10 for at least the last 15 years with great results. It has friction modifiers that allow for proper synchro function so (driver) age is not a factor. 
When the original engine in my 66 blew during a SCCA road race in 1973 it was determined the cause was a piston that came apart.
Quote from steveaWasn't there like one 67 Fastback with a 427 side oiler made? I'm thinking I would like that car.
And on that note...the 67 GT500 Super Snake.
Quote from zraythe engine would be worth the same as any K-code engine. I doubt that the original car will be found if not already known to the SAAC registrar.
Z.
Unregistered cars are out there. There is a guy with a 66 GT350H less than 5 miles from me. AFAIK he has never sent his info to SAAC and didn't seem interested in doing so.
As the owner of a '66 GT350 that is missing its original motor, I would be very interested in seeing some type of K engine registry that shows orphaned/misplaced engines. If one exists, please let me know how to access it.
Jay
I am in the same boat as Jerry. 66 GT350 with missing original block. Mine was supposedly blown up. Currently have a 65 K stamped San Jose block that will be coming out this winter. Supposedly from a 65 GT350
Joe
Me three. The original engine in my 66 GT350 was blown during a SCCA road race in Seattle in 1973. The block and two rods were toast, all other HiPo/Shelby parts were OK. The owner at the time bought a D1ZE Boss 302 service block and rebuilt the engine to get back racing ASAP, that block is still in the car today. He made no attempt to save the block and doesn't remember what happened to it.
If anyone has, or knows of, a 66 VIN stamped block with a hole (or sleeve) in one cylinder please let me know.
Thanks,
Dave
Worked for me. Great pics, thanks Brant.
Dave
Is there a VIN stamped on the block? Thanks.
Nice ET, do you know if the original owner made any changes to the engine for drag racing?
Not sure if this would cause the symptoms you're describing but...have you checked the linkage adjustment?
Just received an order from VA Mustang which included a set of these kick panels. They are simply fantastic, a HUGE improvement over what was previously available. Thanks Brant!
Dave
For even more reading try: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php.
I just went through this. You choices are VERY limited in a 14" tire. I strongly considered the BFG Traction T/A ZRay recommends but in the end wanted a slightly wider tire so went with the standard BFG Radial T/A, 205/70R/14, you have more size choices with these. Other than those two the Cooper Cobra is still available in several 14" sizes.
Dave
When the original engine in my 66 GT350 blew during a road race in 1973 the crank was spared, only the block was toast. 
The owner at the time had it turned 30/20, rebulit the engine using a Boss 302 D1ZE service block, and continued to race for 5 more years routinely shifting at 7000 RPM.
C'mon, this thread has gotten off topic....but I definitely like where it's going! 
NPD does have a "concours correct" repop fan shroud with the rubber shield, part number 8146-1B. Don't know how accurate it is since I've never seen one....
