Here's an original set of 65-66 GT350 reinforced shock towers:
[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/towers.jpg]
Here's an original set of 65-66 GT350 reinforced shock towers:
[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/towers.jpg]
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I always thought it was one of Shelby's tricks.......
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I used to think that too until learning recently the brace, reinforcement plate, and washer reinforced shock towers were all part of the export package. Shelby's only trick was realizing this setup could be applied to cars destined for Shelby American at the San Jose plant.
I believe the staggered space export braces first came into production with the 67 Shelbys.
First you'll have to remove the large attaching nut. If you're lucky you will be able to simply pull the wheel off the steering shaft spline with a good yank. More likely you will have to use a steering wheel puller to get it off the spline. You can rent a puller or actually make your own pretty easily.
Jim Cowles at Shelby Parts and Restoration has reproduced exact spec. Tri-Ys but they aren't cheap. He had a set on ebay last month, item# 270046068982, that got bid up to $681 and didn't meet reserve. Don't know how many sets he plans to make. He also sells a set of big tube Tri-Ys that I think go for around $900.
Has anyone bought or seen either of these?
Since your carb has a date code of the 2nd week in August, 1969 (982) I suspect it is a service replacement and not one of the later Holley reissues which didn't come out until the mid 70's.
The majority of 66 GT350's with automatics used Autolite carbs with the COBRA intake and no spacer and no problems. I see no reason why this combo wouldn't work for you. Using the stock spacer certainly may cause clearance problems. As mentioned, if you use the COBRA intake you will have to connect the PCV to one of the connections at the rear of the intake. This should not affect idle quality at all unless there are other issues. If there were any problems with this combo Shelby American would have addressed them back then.
I do agree that "Using one of the tapped holes in the Shelby intake will not distribute the PCV gasses evenly" since the gasses are fed to the #4 and #8 cylinders so those plugs may experience slightly more fouling but this shouldn't be an issue in a healthy engine.
Thanks guys, mystery solved. I was thinking this looked like the engine ID decal you see on the coil but had never seen it installed on the water pump until taking a close look at these pics.
Does anyone know what the stickers in the pics below are? They appear to be attached to the water pump. Both pics are Shelby American 65 GT350 publicity photos but I see no reason for them to be Shelby specific. The car in the top pic is 5S114 and was taken in June, 1965. I don't know the VIN of the car in the bottom pic but assume it's somewhat close since both cars have 2-65 dated radiators.
[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/sticker01.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/sticker02.jpg]
There seems to be some variability in hose length. The pic below is a 1965 GT350 Shelby American publicity photo. However, the three 66 GT350 test mag articles I have show both hoses shorter and running between the rocker cover and intake manifold.
[Blocked Image: http://1965gt350mustang.com/temp/GT350hose.jpg]
Extra stuff acquired in other parts deals I don't need. Prices include USPS Priority shipping.
NOS 6-cyl. ignition parts, includes one FAA-12171-A point set (DP-3) and one FAA-12200-B rotor. These are concours and thoroughbred correct for 65-66 Mustangs and other early 60's Fords. In the original FoMoCo blue/gray bubble packs, $15 for the pair. ~~SOLD~~
NOS box of 9 BF-82 (B7A-12405- Autolite Spark Plugs, $12. ~~SOLD~~
NOS box of 10, +1 extra ASF-34 (D7TZ-12405-A) Autolite Spark Plugs, $12.
Box of eight Motorcraft BF-22 HiPo/racing Spark Plugs. These have less than 200 miles and are in excellent condition. Also includes a set of eight Autolite 32 plugs in good used condition. These are the same as the old Autolite/Motorcraft BF-12 plugs. $15 for all.
Edited by - Mad4HiPos on 03/06/2007 16:23:18
Thanks for that info Ken, definitely not something I was aware of. Just checked my original bellhousing and there are two dots, meaning Feb. 66, which matches the late March 66 build date.
Bo,
If it's on the car you won't see it, the date is cast on the flat face that the tranny bolts to. The date is only the year (65, 66, etc.) and looks much like the date you see on the timing chain covers. On my original there is an oval FoMoCo logo and Sheffield logo in the same area.
Dave
Still have the original from my late March 66 San Jose car - black.
Merlyn, the auction pic (which is terrible as usual) almost looks like there is a "smooth" area in the 2:00 position on the thick pad. Is that real or not? If real look for the "BB" impression. If the flywheel has been hot tanked and/or bead blasted may be hard to see the test mark. Dave.
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Rivits are wrong, blade shape is wrong, no weights - and MADE IN CHINA.
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Of course lots of original blades didn't have weights either.
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Boy do I feel sorry for you guys back East because there is no way that I could my Kar under wraps for 5 months without a little spin somewhere. California living. <img src=images/icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>Laki
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Even up here in the rainy Seattle area I can usually find at least one dry day a month for some car exercise in the winter. I do check tire pressures before each winter drive and trickle charge the battery at least every 60 days. Regardless of what time of year I always disconnect the neg. cable when the car is sitting. Currently have one of the old acid Autolite repops which is now 5 years old and still going strong.
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I'm after a correct PCV valve for my 66 - HEX shape.
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I assume you're after the hex base non-threaded hose connection style as discussed in this thread? I think I have an NOS extra one.
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I looked at the e-bay link to the KH backing plates, and the KH is upside down. That is why it looks like HM. Thought you guys might want to know.
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Youre right, nice eye Ken!
Part#s KH 49294 and KH 49295 are correct for 65 and at least early 66 GT350s. Later 66 GT350s have a different KH#. I agree that sure looks like a HM stamp, I'll try to find out some more info....
The flywheel thing has been discussed a few times around here and despite what the books say a C3OE-B Engineering number is not HiPo specific. The HiPo unit will have an orange paint daub but even if that is missing all original HiPo flywheels I've seen also have an obvious Brinnel hardness test mark and are balanced differently. If you can see the test mark it's likely a HiPo flywheel. If not it should be no big deal to have the one you bought rebalanced to HiPo specs.
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5208
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4582
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4033
Edited by - Mad4HiPos on 10/07/2006 21:50:08