The pic below is from one of my original rear springs, both springs have the same numbers. The car is a late March 66 San Jose car, I agree with Bo's theory on the date codes which in my case would be the 16th day of 1966 and fits the car pretty well. There is still the mysterious "E".
Any other mid-late 66 owners with original rear springs that can chime in on this?
[Blocked Image: http://members.aol.com/dmgt350/cars/temp/springs.jpg]
Quote from raccol
FWIW the 66 GT350 numbers are wrong. Those are old figures that were updated at least 10 years ago. Don't know about the other stats.
Does anyone know when the fork style changed? The one I got with my late March 66 car is like the replacement style Bo described and has the spring attachment hole in the middle of a symetrical end. I was pretty sure it's original to the car but am now second guessing that.
Any later 66 owners with a know original fork out there that can shed some light on this? The MPC only shows one part number for 65-66.
Thanks, Dave
Here's some other discussions on this subject:
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6116
Other things to look for would be the cowl support piece with evenly spaced holes that an original export brace would bolt to and holes where the override traction bars pass through into the passenger compartment plus the inside brackets.
But as Bo mentioned, the first thing to do is to verify the Ford and Shelby VINs match.
Quote from CharlesTurnerRemember that the impeller is unique for a hi-po, but you can forget finding one of those "off the shelf".
The HiPo replacement impeller is still available from Ford Motorsport although it no longer appears in their current catalog so as soon as the current supply is gone it appears they too will be obsolete. The Motorsport part# is M-8512-A302, cost is about $35.
I recently bought two of these impellers and had them installed in C6OE housings.
Thanks for trying Lyle. Keep the black light, I hear those psychedelic Hendrix posters from the 70's are making a come back.
I just switched to Chevron DELO 400 15W-40 HD oil. I found a couple of older gallons with the CI-4 spec which has a higher ZDDP level than the new CJ-4 spec. As Dave mentions the HD diesel grade oils like Rotella and DELO are being reformulated with less zinc too. I will likely continue to use DELO or Rotella and add the CompCams additive which is much like GM EOS.
A lot depends on how you drive your car. Since ZDDP is sacrificial, if you drive less than 1000 miles between oil changes the new formulation motor oils are probably OK. Using an HD oil and/or the right additives conservatively is cheap insurance.
Do a search for "flat tappet" on the Bob Is The Oil Guy website, tons of info there.
Just took a look at the Ebay pics. The 4201 stamping looks really ragged, can you tell if this was restamped as well? Also, this pump has "Made in Canada" cast in the main body. Anyone know when Carter started producing pumps in Canada?
What about Eaton springs? I've never used them but thought their replacement springs were made to exact specs. They do have a GT handling package specific spring AFAIK.
Is your HiPo stock? If so, I would agree that #70 would seem too rich, especially at 4000'
Bo, you sure have a knack for sniffing this stuff out! Dave.
This thread has a good discussion on front spring stripes and what the white stripes possibly mean:
Dave... Did you get the pertronix made specifically for the dual point ignition system?
Yes I did Ed. I have one friend who installed a Pertronix in his 66 GT350 and it failed on the test drive. His was likely just a dud, at least mine worked OK for a few years, maybe mine was a bit of a dud also but it makes you wonder about their quality control. Obviously the Pertronix works well for lots of people, maybe I'll try it again someday but for now my car runs great with the dual point system, starts right up with a flick of the key.
Dave
Lyle, I think this is an interesting idea worth pursuing. Many pigments have fluorescent properties that can be exposed by UV illumination and would be harder to detect in the visible range.
I switched to a Pertronix and right out of the box it ran OK but just didn't seem to be as good as the original dual point. Figured I was just imagining things but a few years later it died. Switched back to the dual point and I'm sticking with it. It may be old school technology, and a bit of a pain to maintain, but it's reliable and it works.
On the coil discussion, I've always assumed the numeric code on the top of originals was also a date code. But I've talked to at least one reliable source who says that's not the case. He said he's seen plenty of original coils where the top code is way different from the ink stamp date code, build date code, etc. Does anyone know for sure what this code means?
FWIW, I recently installed one of the "new improved" repop coils on my car. Looking good so far but will report any problems if they occur.
I haven't used him but if you try the Advanced Search feature for "Mike Ulrey", make sure "Archived Posts" is checked, there's some good info there.
There are some snubber pics in these threads:
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5636
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5941
You must be logged on to view the second thread.
The "Bob Is The Oil Guy" website has a ton of info on oil formulations and how the changes affect flat tappet cams. A lot of stuff there but well worth reading. I'm glad to hear Mobil-1 hasn't forgotten about us flat tappet people and reformulated some of their oil with higher ZDDP.
Quote from chucks302DOES ANY ONE USE SYNTHETIC GEAR OIL IN A TOP LOADER OR REAR END.IF SO WHAT TYPE.
I've use Redline in my trans and rear end for years.
Quote from LuvKcodesI've seen cars and garages burned up by wiring fires.
In addition to carrying a fire extinguisher, here's another recommendation I follow after experiencing a scary wiring fire under the dash while driving a 57 T-Bird I used to own: I always have the negative battery cable nut only finger tight so it can be removed in a hurry if needed. A crescent wrench in the glove box is also a good idea.
