The NOS valve on the left is the AC type and came in the shown box. The valve on the right is the other style Bo mentions.
[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/c5aevalves.jpg]
The NOS valve on the left is the AC type and came in the shown box. The valve on the right is the other style Bo mentions.
[Blocked Image: http://www.1965gt350mustang.com/temp/c5aevalves.jpg]
Hi Bo, I'll post pics of the AC and C.S.CO valves when I get back in town on Sunday. You're right, hard to tell if yours is original but since that type could be serviced it likely is. The production window for the hex base, nipple hose (non-threaded) connection C5AE valve was pretty small which is why they are so hard to find today. If your original was replaced I would strongly suspect it would have been replaced with a later C6AE round base valve which came into production later in 66, all the later types are not servicable. Bob Mannel's book has some great pics of the different styles. I also have a weird valve with the corrrect C5AZ Ford part# that has a C7AE engineering number. Not sure what's up with that since AFAIK the C5 valve was superceeded by the C6 valve. Dave
PS. Bill, you might also try Jim Cowles for an original valve. He bought a large lot of these last year on ebay. Don't remember if they were used or NOS.
Thanks Bo, The C.S.CO valve is the other supplier I was thinking of. Interesting that yours and Mark's cars have different original valves being so close sequentially but probably just a case of what was grabbed off the parts shelf. Dave.
Bill, I've only seen pictures of the oval script Scott Drake oil caps, I assume this is the one Branda sells as I believe Drake is the only supplier. IMO the script isn't quite right plus the top doesn't have the two spot weld "dimples" originals do. I'd also like to hear opinions from anyone who has actually seen these in person.
RE: the PCV valve, have you tried J.D. Larson at All Classic Motors?
QuoteI found my original C5AE PCV valve in my old tool box....
Hi Bo, out of curiosity is your original valve the AC type or other style? I've seen Mark's original from 5S284 and it's an AC type. Thanks, Dave
Quote from C6ZZKGTThe number that Mad4HiPos gave you of a JB 414 is close to the current Ford number. The actual new Ford part number is a JB 414-L1.
Fred is, as always, absolutely correct. Just checked the belt hanging in my garage and the Motorcraft number is JB 414-L1, Ford number is C9PZ-8620-GMA.
The nice thing about those original C5AE valves (C4 as well) is you can take them apart and service them, they are held together with a spring clip. I found an old dirty used one on ebay for a few bucks two years ago, disassembled it, and sent the housing in with a bunch of other stuff to be zinc plated. Looks better than NOS now.
I believe the C9PZ-8620-GM, JB-414 replacement is still available from Ford.
I think Bill is referring to the hex base valve with a non-threaded hose connection. These are very hard to come by. One OE supplier was AC, I don't remember the other, but both are stamped with a C5AE engineering number. The threaded C4 valve is much more common and will work since once the hose is connected you can't tell the difference.
Did you contact Jim as Mike mentioned? He used to make the best repro steel frame fiberglass skin hood IMO but I don't know if he still does. I have one I bought from him in 1988 and it is pretty much impossible to distinguish from an original.
Quote from 66KGTIt's been discussed quite extensively over on VMF. From what I've picked up and somewhat digested it's a viable alternative for now but much of the newer diesel oil is also lacking in zinc content. I don't recall the SE ratings to look for.
Merlyn is right, this has been discussed all over the internet including the VMF and in even more detail on the Bob Is The Oil Guy forum.
The newer deisel heavy duty oils are being reformulated with lower zinc (ZDDP) levels for the same reason passenger car oils are, the ZDDP additive fouls catalytic converters. IIRC the HD oils are rated a bit differently. The last rating with sufficient (old passenger car levels) ZDDP was CI-4, the latest rating, CJ-4, has less ZDDP but is still probably enough protection for the limited miles our cars typically see.
There is also a lot of conflicting info out there. Mobil-1 has a 15W-50 with the older zinc levels that our flat tappet engines need for protection. So do some of the other synthetics like Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple. Sounds good but then again some of the specialty cam mfgs. (Comp Cams) specifically say NOT to use synthetic oils with solid lifter cams because (going from memory here - very scary!) they are too slippery and don't allow the lifter to rotate enough in the bore. Now this doesn't make much sense to me but it does illustrate some of the issues (there are more!) we have to currently deal with.
Zinc is sacrificial so how much you drive your car will determine how much it's level of protection is reduced. I don't think solid vs. hydraulic cams is an issue here. Both are flat tappet, the issue is metal-to-metal contact which both have, modern engines aren't as affected because of OHV and roller lifter cams.
Here's a little more light reading just from this site:
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6538
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6684
Thanks for all the help Dan!
Quote from 65RangoonI've been told Hedman was the original supplier to Shelby.
I'd have to check the registry to be sure but off the top of my head I believe it was Hedman and Cyclone.
Duncan, what brand are yours and where did you get them? Dave
Hi Dan,
Please try again, didn't receive it. I've found that sending an email through the forum often doesn't work.
Thanks,
Dave
Does anyone know who might carry original or reproduction linkage, air cleaners, and/or fuel logs for the early Cobra kit dual quad setup with Carter carbs? I've tried Jim Cowles, Carl's, Branda, and Pony Carbs but no luck so far. Thanks!
Hi Bo, I have the same article somewhere which I believe is a Perkins(?) restoration. I was going to restripe my original 66 SJ driveline the same way (guess this illustrates Jeff's point) but when I cleaned it there were traces of the original striping which was different than the article. I decided to replicate the original stripes. Eventually had the original retubed but did take this lousy pic of the original tube. Dave
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Thanks for all your hard work on this John!
Agree that $1K is reasonable for a S1MS. Also agree that seller is very reputable, I've been dealing with him for at least 20 years.
The other auction mentioned for the S2MS is way overpriced IMHO. Definetly a record if legit.