Posts by s2ms

  • Yellow Top Coil??

    Also be wary of the new "improved" yellow tops. Although they do look like originals, with the exception of missing the code between the terminals, they appear to have heat related issues. I installed one on my car and it lasted about 20 miles before going bad. They are still made in China.

  • T10 ID help/advice

    I had my original close ratio 66 T-10H upgraded with Super T-10 synchros, sliders, forks, and bearings back around 1995 or so. The visual differences between these parts and stock parts was astounding, I had a chance to inspect them before my tranny guy did the work. If they are still available you can have a stock T-10 built stronger than a toploader IMO.

  • HIPO Radiator?

    Jeff, is there any pattern to the soldered tags on SJ cars? It seems rads up until early 66 production had the W-MO, date code, part#, and another code (Y2, G2, Z2) stamped in the top tank but later 66 rads just have the W-MO and date code stamps. Should it be those later rads that have the soldered tags and if so should they all have them or was it a random thing?


    Thanks,

    Dave

  • collector insurance

    Forgot to mention Heacock also let me cover the 97 SVT Cobra I owned at the time. Hagerty wouldn't touch it because it wasn't a "classic". Not sure if they would still do that since being acquired by Infinity though.

  • collector insurance

    I started using Heacock about 5 years ago. At the time they were more flexible than Hagerty. I've changed the agreed value several times since and they never had a problem with the values I wanted to use, never asked for new pictures, etc.

  • Fuel pump rebuilding

    Quote from C6ZZKGT

    Merlyn, I just sent you pictures of the 66 style that is done.

    -Fred-

    Fred, can you please post those pics on the forum? I'm interested in seeing the results as well.


    Thanks,

    Dave

  • Roller Rockers??

    As has already been mentioned, running roller rockers is no problem. What can be a problem is the extra clearance issues roller rockers create inside the valve cover. Plus if you use poly-locks, which I recommend, there will be even less clearance.


    You can get around this by using spacers or taller repop covers as has also been mentioned, there are also some stock height repop covers that have differently designed baffles specifically for rollers that might work. If you want to use OE valve covers you will need to remove the baffles and build a custom baffle to shroud the PCV valve or you will suck oil like crazy.

  • Fuel pump rebuilding

    Thanks Fred, I replied to your PM.


    I can never seem to get emails to work on the forum which is why I always send both. Seems every email I send gets kicked back as undeliverable but at least that displays their email address so I can re-email if necessary.


    Dave

  • Drive Shaft and U-Joints

    Hi Bo,


    The cup sizes for both the front and rear yolks on my original drive shaft are 1.0 inches. The front U-Joint cap that fits in the slip yolk is also 1.0" but the rear U-Joint cap that fits on the pumpkin yolk is 1-1/8". This matches what is listed in the MPC for the HiPo, the U-Joint size is listed as 1260.


    Dave

  • Rubber pad on Fan Shroud

    Quote from BoS

    I bought my replacement at a shoe repair shop.

    I did the same thing as Bo, they will probably just give it to you. I've heard other people have used an old truck mud flap found on the side of the road.

  • PCV valves on eby

    Quote

    I belive that part number is the push on. Mannel's book shows all three types of valves on one page.

    It gets a little tricky with the part numbers on these. I have two NOS valves in FoMoCo boxes. One has a C5ZZ part# on the box and C4ZE engineering# stamped on the valve, it is a threaded type. The other has C5AZ on the box and C5AE on the valve, it is the push-on type with the hex base.

  • PCV valves on eby

    Hi Bo, I will be curious to see what this turns out to be. I was thinking about this too so emailed the seller, he said it had the threaded top and C5ZZ stamped on the body, not C5AE. Dave