Posts by s2ms

    I had this happen years ago with a set of new repop HiPo plug wires. Don't remember where I got them but they were not the ones Marti makes. I replaced the boots with those from a Motorcraft wire set I had laying around and that solved the problem.

    How are the NOS ones protected internally? Prefilled with brake fluid or something else? Just curious since it seems if they have brake fluid in them there could be a fair amount of corrosion from sitting around all these years collecting moisture.

    Quote from 65HiPo

    I rebuilt my original valve and it leaked a few months later. I then sent it to White Post Restorations. They sleeved it and put it together backwards such that it locked up the brakes the first time I backed out of the garage. I sent it back to them and they re-assembled it, but six months later it leaked again. A total waste of $200. I pulled it out and installed a dual chamber MC, adjustable rod and Willwood valve from Cobra Automotive. Eight years later and I couldn't be happier.

    White Post did my valve but they must have had a learning curve on how to rebuild these. I've heard of several people who had them rebuild theirs prior to mine and had problems. Mine has been rock solid for the past five years including at least one open track. Cobra Automotive recommended them to me after I had problems rebuilding mine with their kit.

    Quote from round2K

    Very few can be rebuilt successfully without stainless steel sleeving to repair the pitting from rust in the cylinder bore.

    IMO this is the important point. I rebuilt mine with a Cobra Automotive kit and it was a nightmare. Nothing wrong with their kit but I believe very minor corrosion caused some scoring on disassembly. When I put it back together the rear brakes would lock, I'm certain the scoring, though not visible, caused the cylinder to jam and locked the brakes. Ended up having it professionally resleeved/rebuilt.

    I remember now having a spacer at one time with the C3OE-8546-A casting number. I have since traded it to a friend for some other parts. It was 2.36 inches in total length and identical to my original HiPo spacer. It came off a 64 Galaxie 289 car.

    Mike,


    The original HiPo fan spacer from my 66 does not have a C3OE casting number on it either. I have looked at a number of original 65-66 HiPo spacers, mainly on GT350's so San Jose built cars, and none of them have had a casting number.


    Dave

    Quote from cobraboy

    Ok the studs seem to be short but I think I may also have the wrong lug nuts, looking at a pic in the 1975 MPC which shows the lug nut for a '65 SS wheel having an extension past the seating cone which would go into the hole in the wheel. I will try to add the illustration. I have the nut 2nd from left, the book says I should have the nut in the centre or is this not correct.

    Mark, The nuts shown in the MPC illustration you posted are Shelby parts. For styled steel wheels you need C5ZZ-1012-B nuts. Dave

    Original 65-66 deluxe steering wheel center cap. Not NOS or perfect but close, it is super nice. Both the emblem and chrome are in great shape, all attaching prongs intact. I believe this is a very early takeoff piece. C5ZA 3655-A cast on the inside (the C is reversed) along with FOMOCO and 31421-H1. $85 including shipping.


    ~~SOLD, Thanks!~~

    That casting number was used on standard 63-66 289's with 3 or 4-speeds. It was also used on HiPos but the HiPo flywheel was balanced differently. Check the back side, a Hipo flywheel can usually be identified by an orange paint duab and a Brinell hardness test mark.


    It must be the original ring gear if it has 160 teeth. In the late 60's the 160 tooth gear was replaced by a 157 tooth gear.


    Here's some other threads about this:


    http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5208


    http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6513

    Z. Ray and I are talking about two seperate, but related and equally problematic scenerios. Both based on personal experience no doubt.


    I have had more issues with an engine trying to stall on hard braking due to the float (and fuel) level in the primary bowl being too low and uncovering the jets, especially on steep hills.


    Holley offers tube extensions that attach to the secondary jets so they can scavage fuel from the rear of the bowl under hard acceleration if that is an issue.


    I guess the bottom line is if you are using a Holley make sure the floats are properly set.

    Quote from C6ZZKGT

    Z.Rays suggestion of lowering the floats is also a good one. Symptoms of a high float level are more pronounced on hard braking.

    It would make sense to me that a low float level on a Holley would also cause stalling when braking as the fuel surges to the front of the bowl and momentarily leaves the jets dry.

    I had a fit problem with my last set but there wasn't anything wrong with the Marti wires. I'm running a cam with the 351W firing order and three of the wires were either too long or short. Contacted Marti about it and they made me three custom wires, correctly numbered and everything.