Quote from C6ZZKGTHis intention for the hydraulic clutch is that he is putting a T5 in his sons car. I have done several of the T5 conversions and I used a cable instead. I did not particularly like the cable but it was easier than a hydraulic setup.
-Fred-
just curious, a Z bar won't work with a T5 ?
Z.
I would change it once a year, just before the longest storage period, which would be winter for most people. And make sure the car is started and driven at least 30 minutes after the oil change
Z.
Centerforce I is plenty of clutch for a Hi-Po.
this is from the 1966 Ford shop manual: ..."If it is necessary to remove more than 0.045 inch of stock from the original thickness, replace the fly- wheel........"
I don't know the original thickness
Z.
my experience is with Mobil1 . I use Mobil 1 15w-50 most of the year. It has a Nominal Phosphorus Level of 1200 PPM of & a Nominal zinc Level of 1300 PPM. with those levels I have not used any zinc additive.
In the winter I use Mobil 1 0w-40. It has a Nominal Phosphorus Level of 1o00 PPM of & a Nominal zinc Level of 1100 PPM. With those levels I do use a zinc additive., Cam Shield
unlike other zinc additives, the Cam Shield label provides a formula that can be used to tailor the amount used so you can arrive at a specific zddp ppm number.
After 43,000 miles over a 9 year period I have no measurable engine wear & no leaks.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…l_1_15W-50.aspx
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…et_Engines.aspx
unless the Brad Penn oil is in the 1200 ppm range I would think about using some zddp additive with it. From what I have heard about it, it's a high quality oil, but somewhat pricey. I don't know if it's worth the extra $$$ over a Mobil 1 product.
If the Brad Penn oil is marketed as a racing oil, I wouldn't use it in an engine that is not going to be raced and subsequently disassembled after every few hours of operation.
Z.
no old school gnomes doing the same thing over there ? Possibly some Aston Martin or Jag classic restoration place might give you a lead.
Z
there are places over here that have good reputation for rebuilding Hi-Po clutches. Do you have the old Hi-Po clutch that might be rebuilt?
this contact info might not be up to date:
Arizona Brake & Clutch Supply, Inc.
2211 N. Black Canyon Highway
P.O. Box 6369
Phoenix, AZ 85005
602-256-7966
602-254-1283 fax
if there is a plus side to installing 45 year old rod bolts on an engine that might (or should) see 6000+ rpm, I don't see it.
Z.
same for me.
Z.
Quote from SixfiveGTwith respect to Zray's comment about recovering one's investment in a K coupe let alone a convertible or fastback... having just finished a K coupe I can attest to the fact that I will never recover the investment I have in the car... but I knew that going in... ..................."
I only brought it up as "2-farout" had mentioned his coupe restoration in progress might be for sale. If you know a sale is looming then it makes it tough to keep going deeper upside down with a restoration.
one funny aside, if I still had all the cars I swore I'd never sell,,,,..
Z.
I'm happy someone is restoring a K code coupe, or any other K code code for that matter.
Since you mention that it might be sale, I do wonder however how a person can expect to get their investment back out of a coupe restoration? It's hard enough to to break even on the fastbacks & convertibles.
Z.
Quote from torcobraUsed Front Koni Shocks. I had them on my Mustang and didn't like the ride. $150. plus the shipping Terry
did you adjust them? The adjustment range is pretty dramatic.
btw, new Konis can be had for $200 per pair.
Z.
Quote from 66gtkMy chassis dyno experience on a mild built 289 showed no gains between the stock air cleaner and the air cleaner removed completely.
a free flowing air cleaner ALWAYS works better than no air cleaner. Same reason velocity stacks work better than no stacks.
Z.
quote:
I picked up about 15hp (per dyno results) with an K&N A140E8, which is 14" x 2 1/8". I have about 3/4" hood clearance running an Air Gap manifold. My car is an early '66 with standard '65 mounts.
Hope this helps
Was this 15hp increase on the dyno done on YOUR car? in YOUR presence?
I have read an article in one of the National Mustang magazines in which a 289 with a K&N power top filter made 15 more HP than one with a stock K air cleaner. They listed the 2 dyno runs. For the life of me I can't find the article now.
Z.
do you already have a T-5 bell housing for your sons project ? I have one if you are looking.
I also have a Bell housing that would work for your K, but am not crazy about selling. Have you tried a local junk yard? The stock bell housings are plentiful, but if you can't find one close to home let me know...
Z.
according to the Ford 1966 shop manual the torque value is 12 to 15 ft. lbs.
Z.
Guys, I am not really planning on any serious racing with the car just some light cruising innitially, then may be a bit of spirited driving, but nothing regular or sustained......
then any newly made (not NOS) hose should be sufficient.
Z.
for extended high rpm driving even a modern composition radiator hose might collapse without the spring. Do you anticipate extended periods of high rpm driving, or will you just be tooling around with occasional red-line encounters ?
Z.
Quote from CSXCOBRAzray
So if this balancer is actually a legitimate "original" race part in "NOS" condition in the original "FORD" box what would this part be worth?......................"
as I have already mentioned, in my opinion, it is worth about 1/2 of what you are asking.
Z.
I'm ID'ing your balancer from your own description of the extra machining done in addition to the hash marks on the circumference. I have seen several done the same way, and it is the nature of machining metal that a technique from the '60's can be perfectly duplicated in 2010 right down to the patina.
I think you are touting the "fully degreed" aspect of the balancer to justify the $950 asking price, as NOS balancers routinely sell for half that amount.
I don't begrudge your efforts to get the maximum dollar for your part, just pointing out why I don't think it's worth it. Just my opinion based on 40 years observation of the market for such parts.
Z.
has there been any proof that the degree markings were done by Ford, and not done by any machine shop at a later date. I have seen NUMEROUS hi-po balancers that have had the full degreeing timing marks added, and they are INDISTINGUISHABLE from this one. I don't see how there should be price premium for a fully degreed Hi-Po balancer since ANY competent machine shop can do the job for a few dollars.
Z.
