Posts by zray

    Quote from duke96

    Now when you wired it did you only run the single wire from the box to the tach or did you still run it off the coil. I'm a little confused on where the wires go when wiring the rally pac. I have seen people ask this on here before and most of the time they get reffered to the wiring diagram from a place like Mustangs Unlimited. I bought this diagram and it tells me nothing. I need to know where the wires go not just plugged into under the dash, due to my harness being spliced all over. Please keep the comments coming you guys have been great on everything I have ever asked on here.

    Duke


    everything you need is on the MSD website.


    http://www.msdignition.com/1download.htm


    you will need to buy a MSD 8920 tach adaptor.


    here are wiring instructions:


    http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8920_frm22049.pdf


    there are 2 illustrations.


    are you using a MSD ready to run dist (can be used w/o or with MSD box) or a MSD billet dist, or some other dist.? The answer will affect how you wire in the tach adaptor.


    Z. Ray


    :shy::shy::shy::shy:

    Quote from C6ZZKGT

    What did Cobra Automotive quote for the drums? Are they NOS Ford or aftermarket ones?

    -Fred-


    They are OEM I believe. price in my price list is $ 88.95 (my price list may be out of date).


    Complete Shelby drum brake set up is listed at $ 820.00


    Z. Ray

    Quote from 289kford

    for those of you that have changed to roller or aftermarket stock style, have you noticed a performance gain? I see the comp link above boasts 15-30 horse increase over stock. are they saying factory rockers (ratio) are that far out of spec? I would have thought factory parts would be tighter spec than some china built replacement parts that are out there.

    I see they also have a 1.7 ratio. Anybody cheating a little with those?


    it's the friction reduction that is the basis for the horse power claims.

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    Z. Ray

    Quote from bobmannel

    A Ford MPC dated April 1965 states the HiPo was 49.70" long (center-to-center of universal-joint holes). The Non-HiPo 4-speed was 50.78". Essentially, the 9" required a 1" shorter driveshaft as compared to the 8".


    that's the measurement I've always used; U-joint center to center.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from topdownK

    The door data plate even looks to be a reproduction on the 2nd ebay (ticket) one. What a RIP OFF!! It should be reported.


    I reported both auctions. So far I seen a 50% success rate in getting auctions pulled. I think the more people that report an auction, the more likely it will be pulled. The "Report this item" is at the bottom of every auction page Then: Listing Violations > eBay Motors or vehicle related > Prohibited (banned) items > Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) plates


    Z. Ray

    "...... There was a problem loading this page:


    It is with deep regret that I have had to make the decision to close down VMF. I have grown to find running the forum too much of a strain and simply can't do it anymore. ....."


    I hate April fools day.


    Z. Ray

    Quote from 6hypo5conv

    Turns out that most all of my rocker arms on my '65 HIPO 289 are worn out.

    I was wondering if instead of stock replacements if I could use a roller rocker arm on otherwise stock 289 HIPO heads??


    yes. That is exactly what I have done. I am using Crane Gold Race Extruded Roller Rocker Arms # 36750-16, Summit Racing ( http://store.summitracing.com ) has them for $335.00 per set.


    No machining of the head is necessary Even though Hi-Po heads have built in push rod guides, I ( and the Crane folks) would recommend using the Crane #36650-1 push rod guide plates as well. I first installed the roller rockers w/o the Crane guide plates, only to have a mishap with one push rod soon after installation. With the guide plates I gone about 20,000 miles w/o problems.


    Another bonus is with the roller rockers, the valves don't seem to need much adjustment.


    If I doing this over again I would get the 7/16" stud size roller rockers & a new stud set ( 7/16"). The rocker cost the same for either size, and the strength of the stud is substantially increased with the 7/16" size.. A 7/16" stud set isn't that expensive. Again, there is no machining of the head involved. as the part of the stud that screws into the head is the same with both the 3/8" & 7/16" studs.


    hope this helps,


    Z. Ray

    My 715 cfm Holley was unsatisfactory due to an off idle bog. I had Pony Carbs restore it, and specifically asked them to do whatever they could to eliminate or reduce the bog. Don't know exactly what they did, but the result was amazing. Now it operates like a smaller carb on the low end and a large carb when the rpm is higher. Best of both worlds now.


    Z. Ray