Posts by zray

here's how to do it:

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/faq.asp#attach

Z. Ray

can you post some photos?

any idea who is making it for them? Scott Drake ??

Z. Ray

I believe the ZDDP issue comes into play more with the high pressure areas such as cam/lifter contact points. After 20,000+ miles I have no measurable wear where the guide plate and push rod are in close proxsimity.

BTW, I'm using an oil that still contains a "full load" of ZDDP: Mobil 1 15w-50.

Z .Ray

Quote from kar-nut

Why are you using push rod guide plates on Hipo heads?

Even though Hi-Po heads have built in push rod guides, Crane techs recommended using the Crane #36650-1 push rod guide plates as well.

I'm using them because I had a pushrod mishap shortly after installing Crane Gold roller rockers without the guide plates. Push rods appeared to need more control at high RPM's. With the guide plates, no problems for 23,000 miles. Maybe a coincidence, maybe due to Installing the guide plates.

What is known is that I haven't had a repeat problem.

Z. Ray

Quote

.......... I'll let you know how it works out.

Z Ray, did you have to massage your guide plates any?

Thanks

Mark

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There were two guide plates that had less than 0.002" clearance for the push rods (mine own personal comfort zone). My engine guru said as long as I could spin the push rods that would be sufficient, and not to worry as the push rods were hardened & the guide plates are not. But I did as you did and took a bit off the guide plates with a file. As I mentioned at the beginning of this thread, all is well many thousands of miles later.

Z. Ray

Quote from C6ZZKGT

Push rod guide plates are not supposed to be used with slotted push rod heads. They are meant for heads with round holes for the pushrods where the hole is not the guide for the push rod. If you are using guide plates you need to make the push rod holes round so that there is no interference with the push rods.

-Fred-

I'm using the guide plates w/o any interference and w/o having to machine the holes in the (hipo) heads. I would agree with you that care must be taken to ensure no interference exists.

Z. Ray

more oil filter comparisons:

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfil…oilfilters.html

Z.Ray

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......... Also, I am going to use this as an excuse to do an oil change and was wondering if anyone out there had recommendations on what the best oil (and filter) is to use for the Hi-Po. The car lives in the warm climate of Brisbane, Australia (which is roughly the same as Miami, Florida)............

There are probably as many different opinions on the "right" oils to use as there are members of this forum. My $ 0.02 : I use Mobil 1 15w-50 & a Mobil 1 oil filter, # M-301. After 23,000 miles I have normal oil consumption, no leaks or wear. I changed to Mobil 1 2000 miles after a major engine overhaul.

My car is driven frequently in a tough climate; Central & West Texas. Just drove 1500 miles in a little over 48 hours through West Texas & New Mexico, with altitudes ranging from 700' elevation to 7500' elevation Nice trip, no mechanical issues. I did adjust the idle when I reached 4000' elevation.

However my back is now toast. Those motorcycle "incidents" will come back and haunt you...

For more info on Mobil 1:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…et_Engines.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…assic_Cars.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…_1_15W-50_.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…l_Pushrods.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mo…oduct_Guide.pdf

Z. Ray

Quote from 41GPAWS

Fron 10 feet away the paint is not too bad as the car has been in the hands of a collector for many years. After years of buffing, it is very thin in many places(edge of quarter panels, hood, fenders etc.). The guy I bought it from said he has avoided washing the car just to preserve what little quality is left in the paint. I plan on driving it as is.

I wrestled many times over the dilemma of whether to paint it & restrict my driving, or leave it as it is, and just rely on wax to preserve what I've got. I guess I've finally come down on the side of leaving it alone. The next owner(s) can do as they see fit.

Plus, I can't figure out if it's worth more original, or with the new paint job which would cost 10K +

Z. Ray

as you can see from my sig pic, unrestored paint can look pretty crappy. The paint in so thin in places, like on the hood where you can see the black gel coat easily.

Z. Ray

will you be willing to deliver it to the US side of the border?

Z. Ray

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If you're not into the concours look.Use a Flow Cooler Brand water pump. They work! Available in aftermarket hi-performance catalogs such as Jeg's & Summit's.

When I purchased my car it didn't have a Hi-Po water pump, so I went with a Flow Cooler cast iron pump when replacement was necessary. I use the water wetter product as well. On a recent 1500 mile trip to New Mexico with air temp. near 100 degrees in West Texas, the engine temp. held steady in the middle of the normal range.

Also consider buying a quality radiator cap such as one from the Stant.

http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?b…location_id=179

Stant also has a great line of thermostats.

http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?b…location_id=168

(no I don't work for them, I just like products that work as advertised)

remember, the cooling system is a system, everything has to work "together"

also consider an overflow tank, In the Texas climate, I couldn't make it without one. Available from many vendors. This is the type I use:

http://mustangsplus.com/xcart/product.…cat=2859&page=1

Z. Ray

Quote from pony65k

quote:this answer won't address your question, but I feel compelled to mention that a child young enough to need a special seat probably shouldn't be a passenger in any vintage car unless there is no other safer (modern) transportation available.

Zray no offense but in my book, if someone is old enough to look at me with a sparkle in the eyes, a huge smile and say "Daddy I wanna ride in your Mustang !" then he/she's got a ticket ............

no offense taken.

But I was referring to infants & toddlers (see post) who are more at risk in a crash than children two years of age and older. So when they're old enough to say, "Daddy I wanna ride in your Mustang !".... then I say, "strap 'em in."

Z. Ray

Quote from pony65k

Hi all.

Just wondering if anyone has set up their K Fastback to put a child seat in it? A friend of mine is looking how to go about this.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

RP

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this answer won't address your question, but I feel compelled to mention that a child young enough to need a special seat probably shouldn't be a passenger in any vintage car unless there is no other safer (modern) transportation available. I know infants and toddlers rode in vintage iron "back in the day", but that doesn't mean we shouldn't take advantage of the engineering progress of the last 40 years and thereby keep our kids a bit safer. Just my .02 cents...

Z. Ray

The tightest valve clearances I've ever seen (on a push-rod flat tappet engine) were on the old Triumph 650cc motorcycle. I worked in a dealership in the early 1970's and we did see a lot of burned exhaust valves from novices setting their own valves. Intakes were .002 & exhaust were .004. Very tight, but OK when set right,

Z. Ray

I use Autolite APP 45's. Long lasting, and haven't fouled one yet.

Z. Ray

Quote from b9folk

This is probably an idiotic question, but I have zero experience with intakes. I'm under the impression that the mounting "footprint" on a Ford carb is different than other brands like Holley, so you can only use that carb on a Ford intake. Is that correct? Just wondering if I get an Edelbrock intake if I must also buy a different carb.

don't know about the Edelbrock intake with the Ford carb, but I do know that the Autolite carb is real bear to get to work with the Shelby Cobra manifold. The bottom of the Autolite carb is NOT like the bottom of the Holley carb's, etc. Many after market manifolds are too narrow where the carb mounts to give good sealing with waffle type bottom of the Autolite carb.

Z. Ray

Quote from bobmannel

I researched this for 1963-65 Fairlane rear station wagons which use 10x2½" drums. Current replacements are Raybestos 1639, ACDelco 18B455, and NAPA 6401130. I can't tell you for sure, but the same drums are probably used by all three brands. These are finned, not like OEM, but are better than OEM. Prices vary wildly. I got a set at RockAuto.com. They have a closeout sale of $44.79 (15 left), or regular inventory of $73.79. I bought the closeout. .........

Thanks for tip. I bought a pair at the close out price, and they look great.

One note, due to the finned design, etc., they do weigh a lot more than the original drums. But the fit is great.

Z. Ray

checked on my car and made revisions to post.

The hot wire from the ign switch goes to :

the red tach wire and to the red wire from the MSD box.

White wire from the MSD box goes to the points.

Orange wire from the MSD box goes to the positive side of the coil.

Black wire from the MSD box goes to the neg. side of the coil.

White tach output wire from the MSD box goes to the tach adaptor.

the red wire from the MSD 8920 tach adaptor goes to the tach black wire

Violet wire from the tach adaptor not used

Heavy Red & Black wires from the MSD box go directly to the battery.

Z. Ray