Posts by zray

  • Recomend a Caliper Rebuilder

    Quote from 65Rangoon

    quote:

    Remember, Both DOT 5 & DOT 3/4 need to be replaced from your system once a year, albeit for different reasons.


    Z. Ray


    Z. Ray, Interesting comment on Dot 5 yearly replacement. What drives the need to do that?


    It's the water issue. Since the fluid does not absorb water, and water that finds it way into the system will collect in one spot, usually low in the brake line near the caliper, and do two things. Boil when the brake fluid get hot, and rust out the line from the inside out. The constant heating & cooling of the brake caliper will cause condensation. There doesn't seem to be any way to avoid that completely.


    You can do a goggle search on" DOT 3 vs. DOT 5 " and find plenty of recommendations that the brake fluid should be changes regularly regardless of type used.


    It is probably overkill to change DOT 5 once a year, but I would do it if I drove a car often. Now if the car was driven infrequently with fewer heat/cooling cycles, then DOT 5 would be last a lot longer.


    It's just my opinion of how I would maintain my car.


    Here is a nice brake info page:


    http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/fluid.shtml


    Z.

  • Recomend a Caliper Rebuilder

    Quote

    Hi. I need to get the front calipers rebuilt on my 66 k code. Any recommendations on who to send them to? Also, what needs to be done to convert the whole system to silicone and is it woth it? Thanks in advance.:)


    these are finest rebuilders of brakes I know of:


    http://www.goldlinebrakes.com/


    They did my calipers 4 or 5 years ago. Still look perfect. I had them do the optional coating as my car sees extreme service compared to most.


    When they arrived I opened the box and was overcome with joy. I wanted to run down the street holding the calipers high in the air, shouting, " Look everyone, see my beautiful calipers..." Fortunately my significant other stopped me.


    Z. Ray

  • AM Radio wiring

    Quote from cobraboy

    Ahh I see you're bored Ray, Ok where does the pink wire with the purple spots...............


    PS ever thought of buying a goat !


    yes, but neighbors here eat goats


    Z.

  • 5R09K149499

    Quote from b9folk

    Z-Ray, please be patient. I'm trying to provide as much info as I can and it takes a while to compose these posts. Also very emotional for me to sell this car.


    not trying to be hard on anybody. just wanted to see a price.


    I've been un and under-employed for over two years as well, so I have an idea what you are going thru. Hope you are younger than me, as once you approach 60 it becomes that much harder to find a job whether in your field or not. I wish you all the luck


    Z. Ray

  • Paxton

    p.s. there are several web sources that basically have the same information regarding humidity & a/f ratios. A google search of "humidity & carburetion yields a lot of info, most of it consistant.


    Z.

  • Paxton

    first of all, let me say I don't entirely make sense of this, but here goes. At plus 95 degrees the a/f ratio reading at idle and low speed cruise is 14.0 - 15.0. At 80 degrees or less the a/f ratio reading at idle and low speed cruise is 13.0 - 14.0. a full point difference.


    Seems to me when the air temperature is higher, the engine should be running richer, not leaner. But not in my case. Any theories ?


    My theory is that the change in humidity, not temperature is causing the fluctuation in the a/f ratio.


    The higher the humidity the less space there is for additional molecules of air and therefore oxygen. As the humidity increases there is less oxygen and therefore the engine runs richer.


    In my part of Texas, and elsewhere for all I know, when the temperature is low in the mornings, the humidity is high. When the temperature is high in the afternoon, the humidity has dropped. And (here) it's the very low humidity of 5% to 15% that is allowing the increased oxygen in the air.


    Z. Ray

  • Paxton

    glad to hear you have things sorted out to your satisfaction. I am curious to find out if you have the same phenomenon I have, which is that the a/f ratio changes considerably depending on the ambient air temperature & humidity. The a/f ratio difference between 75 degrees & 105 is amazing. I've just settled on a correct setting at 90 - 95 degrees. Texas will maintain that temperature well into October. I will have to re-jet for the winter, or gag on the rich running engine fumes.


    With the Paxton disconnected, the temperature variation has a MUCH smaller impact on the a/f ratio


    Z. Ray

  • HiPo fuel pump

    Quote from iowa

    i'm not sure what you mean

    when you say it won't help

    iowa


    Sorry for the cryptic response. I mean there is no performance advantage to using a Hi-Po pump on a stock, non K code, 289.


    Better, IMHO, to sell it. or store it for the day when you can use it on a genuine Hi-Po engine.


    Z.

  • Paxton

    Quote from jwc66k

    But it sure runs great with a leaned out system, just before the engine goes "poof".

    Jim


    I was never brave enough to do much "leaning out" until I got a wideband a/f meter. Very addictive.


    Z.

  • Paxton

    the reason C. Conley sends out carbs with jetting on the rich side is entirely due to caution. Lean running carbs are risky enough, but with the added power of the Paxton a lean condition can ruin an engine in short order. For the same reason I hestitate to reccomend to others what I have done myself.


    As I mentioned above I'm using 67's on the primary sidel & 78's on the secondaries. That may be right for your engine, or not right. I'd go down two sizes at a time until you find the combination that works best for you.


    Another thing to consider is lowering the floats 3-5 flats below the stock setting. I had to both lower the floats & reduce the jets before I was satisfied.


    Z.

  • Paxton


    the jets I'm using are 67 in the primary float bowl & 78 in the secondary float bowl. When I have bought carbs from C. Conley in the past he had 69's & 84's installed. I'm a little thrown by the 45 number you have reported. Can you email or call Conley and ask him what size jets he put in your carb.


    Are you using a K&N air filter ? If so, I would suggest first removing the air cleaner very briefly to see if the a/f reading changes considerably before doing any jetting changes. It's possible that the filter is just over oiled giving a too rich a/f reading.


    Z.

  • Paxton

    it sounds like you have an Autolite carb, so please disregard any statement I made about the kick-down linkage. I was thinking you had a Holley with the generic kick-down linkage attached to the carb,


    If your kick-down cable or rod is properly adjusted then it should operate Independently of the presence of the supercharger.


    As far as the jetting goes, I don't know the autolite system for jet numbering, but if your a/f ratio is in the 11's at cruise, then you need to lean out that circuit.


    what is the af/ ratio under a load at part throttle, like accelerating up a long incline ? What is it at full throttle ?


    Z.

  • Paxton


    in reverse order.....


    1) I don't think there is an "easy way" to hook up kick down linkage to a vintage Paxton. Most carbs used for these applications don't have kick down linkage. I suppose if your carb does have kick down linkage, then you would only have to drill a hole in the enclosure for the cable.


    2) oil pressure sounds OK, the fuel pressure should vary with the boost pressure. It should be 5 to 6 without boost, then cli.mb to 11 or 12 when the boost is 5 or 6 psi.


    3) The idle a/f ratio is OK imho. But the cruising a/f ratio is too rich. What is your current jetting ?


    Z.