Dave, I just sent you a PM.
-Fred-
Dave, I just sent you a PM.
-Fred-
This Kar is back on Ebay again with no changes:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…K%3AMEWAX%3AVRI
-Fred-
This Kar is back on Ebay again with no changes:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…K%3AMEWAX%3AVRI
-Fred-
The 64 1/2 five bolt block has the same bolt span as the six bolt block. The shorter bolt span was before 3/3/1964 which predates Hipo Mustangs.
-Fred-
This Kar is back on Ebay again and the seller has raised the starting bid price by $4,000 to $59,900:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…K%3AMEWAX%3AVRI
-Fred-
The lower control arms do not have jacking tabs. The tie rod ends are aftermarket and not NOS Ford parts. It has a replacement fuel pump rather than an original button top style. Interesting choke cable routing with the clip on the shock tower brace.
-Fred-
The servo on the carburetor is actually called a dash pot and is correct for a Hipo with automatic transmission. It was not used on Hipo 4 speed transmission cars.
-Fred-
I believe that somebody needs to have a good look at the data plate. He is stating that the axle is an "H" code which is a 3.89 with limited slip. To my knowledge, a limited slip rear end was not available in a Hipo car in 1965. This was not available until 1966.
-Fred-
Based on the VIN, it was produced around October of 1964 making it way too early to be a GT. This Kar appears to have the wrong rear end as the axle tubes are not tapered. It appears to have a 66 style snubber. It has an aftermarket export brace and a poorly fitted headliner. The choke cable is in the wrong place on the dash. It has an aftermarket air cleaner topping off an AFB or Edelbrock carburetor. It has an electronic voltage regulator, wrong styled steel wheels, wrong fuel pump and wrong style Rally Pac. It is a good appearing car, just not all that correct. A good inspection would be in order on this one.
-Fred-
The angle up was more important on convertibles to clear the bolt in reinforcement that goes beneath the pipes. Yes, the exhaust pipes picked up the angle on the H-pipe.
-Fred-
Welcome to the site, Bill. We look forward to your insights and knowledge on these cars.
-Fred-
The rear of the H-pipe should angle up slightly as that is the way Ford made them. It is hard to tell from the picture as to how much angle is on yours. Non Ford (GYPO) H-pipes do have to be massaged into position from my experience.
-Fred-
This Kar is back on Ebay again with no changes:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…K%3AMEWAX%3AVRI
-Fred-
Before I go any further with trying to help you ID your housing I will start with a basic question. Mustangs did not have a drain plug on the housing. Are you actually referring to a fill plug? A couple of pictures on here would help a lot.
-Fred-
I had a fuel pump lever come apart on a Chevy engine many years ago where the fulcrum pin was swedged into the pump body. If you have an original Carter button top pump, that cannot happen as the fulcrum pins are in a set hole and not swedged in. If you need a proper style pump, I do have one available.
Al that you need to remove to get the pan off is the starter, tubular crossmember and drop the idler arm down. You are lucky that the fuel pump lever did not get caught up in the timing chain on the way down to the pan.
-Fred-
I just sent you a PM on four of your parts that I wish to purchase.
-Fred-
The wire installs the way you have it in your right hand picture. The fork will feel a little loose but that is correct.
-Fred-
+1 on keeping your original pieces in the Kar in case of a failure. I have had to replace a couple of the ignitors on customers cars. Thankfully mine has held up well. Maybe that is because I am prepared with my spare parts?
My Pertronix has been in my Kar for over 20 years now.
-Fred-
4 speeds use the left hand helix driven gears as the speedometer cable attaches to the passenger side of the transmission. The right hand helix is for 3 speeds and automatic transmissions.
-Fred-