Gene, I noticed the 66 style of instrument bezel and figured that it either has the wrong 66 gauges or that somebody replaced the bezel incorrectly over the years. The 65 GT standard interior instrument bezel has been obsolete from Ford for over 35 years and the standard 66 one will fit in its place. I gave the seller credit for having the correct glove box door. My hope would be that this Kar has the correct 65 GT wire looms.
-Fred-
Mark, The "little feet" that you speak of are for a later application as this seal also fits a 2.3 liter OHC 4 cylinder engine. Ford did not use the split lip seal until 1969 and it was made without the "little feet". Ford replaced that 1969 part number with a 1974 number for the 2.3 liter engine and that was the application that uses the "little feet". I have never seen an instruction sheet telling you what to do with the "little feet" but they do need to go. All that you need to do is to trim the feet off of the sides of the seal and a razor blade works very well.
Bos, In regards to filling the hole for the pin, I have never filled it as it is outside the rear main seal and the rear main seal covers the hole from the inside. The rear pan seal covers the hole from the outside. If you end up with a leak there it is most likely another issue and not the pin hole being as the oil would need to get past the rear main seal first. I have never experienced a leak from that area in all of the engines I have done over the years however filling the hole is cheap insurance.
-Fred-
Phil, The pin is only in the main cap. There is not one in the block. The pin is only there to keep the rope type seal from spinning in the cap. You need to remove the pin when installing the split lip type of seal. The seal should not be installed flush with the cap part line but rather slightly offset. The split lip type of rear main seals sometimes come the instructions for this. Sometimes the instructions are in a gasket kit. It is not complicated so even without instructions, I am sure that you will figure out what I am trying to say.
-Fred-
The HEH-BT transmission with this car is incorrectly listed as a close ratio when in fact the HEH-BT trans is a standard wide ratio unit. David Kee has this improperly listed in his transmission identification section. The Ford parts book states the HEH-BT as being for a standard 289 and therefore not a close ratio.
-Fred-
This Kar has an 8 inch rear end and a vacuum advance distributor. I am unable to see the balancer and I believe that an inspection would be in order to see if any Hipo stuff remains on this Kar. The dash is setup as a 66 and has the incorrect 6K high profile Rally Pac.
-Fred-
Jim, Jim Cowles is referring to the 2K004 which is a splash shield that he is calling a dust shield. The 2B127 is the disc pad retainer, and yes, the stainless steel retainers are a decent reproduction although without the FoMoCo logo. The only reproductions of the dust shields (splash shields) are a modified 67 version which is incorrect in appearance for 65 and 66. It is tough to find decent originals like Jim has.
-Fred-
Doug already posted this in a separate entry and I am just trying to keep all of the discussions on this Kar in one place. It is back on Ebay again with no changes:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/For…=item43a5e5fa38
-Fred-
In regards to the picture above, I am unclear as to what you are questioning regarding being stock. If you are referring to the extra floor pan reinforcements and the tie plate that bolts them together, that is all normal for convertibles only.
-Fred-
Welcome aboard, Malcolm. You will find many friendly and helpful people here.
-Fred-
Warner, I just sent you a PM on this.
-Fred-
The K code C4ZA cast brackets have a deeper saddle to accomodate the extra pieces associated with the rest of the Hipo mount assembly. If you used a standard C3DA casting, your engine would sit too high.
-Fred-
Welcome aboard the forum. You will find many helpful people here along with K code junkies like myself.
-Fred-
Dan, I just sent you an email.
-Fred-
All 289 rods whether standard or Hipo have the C3AE-D casting number. The difference in the rods is that the Hipo rods use 3/8" rod bolts rather than the standard 5/16" bolts. The bolt size sounds like it would be simple to just bore out the 5/16" hole and install 3/8" bolts, right? If that were the case it would be easy to convert standard rods to Hipo rods and they would appear to be correct. Wrong!! If you bore out the rod bolt holes to fit a 3/8" bolt, the bolt will be into the rod bearing surface. Ford spread the bolt centers on the Hipo rods to allow the bolts to be changed to 3/8" bolts without the problem of getting into the bearing surface. The problem then is that the rod caps on standard rods do not have enough material to change the bolt center spread outward. This makes the caps different. It is a very subtle difference but that is the way it is. Bottom line is you either have Hipo rods or you don't. If they have 5/16" bolts, they are not Hipo rods.
-Fred-
Excellent job!!!
-Fred-
The PM was for Round2K Dave Wallace as I have been trying to reach him for a while and his regular email is not working correctly.
-Fred-
I had a 1966 Metucheon built Hipo Convertible with a September 1965 build date that was original with a 65 style bracket.
-Fred-
Doug, Having not personally inspected the Kar, I cannot add more than I have previously. I can make a run to Missouri to inspect it for you if you like.
-Fred-
