Frank, The starter nose is by application and did not change size after 1966. You just have the wrong one for some reason. The starter drive is the same for both size flywheels.
-Fred-
Posts by C6ZZKGT
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The closest that I have at this time is a really nice August 1965 if that helps.
-Fred-
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If you still have your old starter, just change the nose from your old starter over to the rebuilt starter and you will be done. It will only take a couple of minutes and does not involve messing with brushes or anything else.
-Fred-
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This Kar is back on Ebay again with a $3,000 lowered price of $46,900:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…:EF:MOTORS:1123
-Fred-
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Ron, I just sent you a PM.
-Fred-
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I just sent you a PM on the camshaft as I do not have your email address.
-Fred-
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Ralph, The VIN that you listed is for a fastback and not a coupe. The numerical sequence makes it a 64 1/2 which could not be a fastback anyway. Maybe you misread the 07 number as an 09?
-Fred-
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Mark, The low oil level is partially why the rear trans bushing wore out in the first place. You cannot overfill the trans by adding oil at the fill plug as any excess will run out of the hole with the fill plug removed. You may still have an issue with the driveshaft yoke as they need to be pretty smooth to seal properly. It sounds like you tried hard to do everything right however your new rear seal could still be defective if you find the driveshaft yoke to be good.
-Fred-
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Also make sure that the fuel hose that connects to the fuel tank sending unit is fresh. An old hose can get cracks that do not leak fuel but will cause the pump to suck air rather than fuel. Everybody has had this problem at one time or other with a drinking straw.
-Fred=
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This Kar is back on Ebay again with no changes:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…K%3AMEWAX%3AVRI
-Fred-
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Frank, All of the pumps that I have done from the beginning are compatible with current fuels. That was one of my concerns that was addressed at the start of my project. If the pumps would not have been compatible, I would not have done them because I was trying to eliminate problems and not create more. You should have no issues. I have done over 300 of them so far and as yet have not had any problems.
-Fred-
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Phil, I am unaware of a problem with Martis repro belt although it could certainly be an issue. I would first check the stamping numbers on your crank pulley, water pump pulley, alternator pulley and alternator adjusting arm. If any of those are incorrect, your belt would not adjust properly. What length belt did you get from Marti? The correct length is 41 1/2 inches on a Hipo for 65 and 66.
-Fred-
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Frank, The original crimp style Carter pumps are also rebuildable.
-Fred-
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Please post a price so that we can all know what you are asking for this car.
-Fred-
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This Kar is back on Ebay again with no changes:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…K%3AMEWAX%3AVRI
-Fred-
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This Kar is back on Ebay again with no changes:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…K%3AMEWAX%3AVRI
-Fred-
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Here is a link to a previous group of posts on the reproduction exhaust manifold "fit" problem:
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…fold,spark,plug
-Fred-
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Jim, The "fit" problem is ongoing as I have posted regarding this a few weeks ago. I spent quite a bit of time modifying the left side on a current repro to be able to remove and install the spark plugs. This went far beyond simply loosening the manifold and raising it up before retightening it as you can get away with on an original. It was necessary to do a lot of grinding as there is too much casting material in the path of the spark plug socket.
-Fred-
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Ben, I would check behind the firewall padding to see if it fell inside of there. The tab is generally loose and can fall inside of the car.
-Fred-