Posts by C6ZZKGT

This Kar is back on Ebay again with a $2,000 raise in price to $39,500:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

-Fred-

Which side of the secondary diaphragm do you find the fuel? Is is under the outer cover or is it in the well of the carburetor on the inside of the diaphragm?

-Fred-

I just sent you a PM on this.

-Fred-

This Kar is back on Ebay again with no changes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…=STRK:MEWAX:VRI

-Fred-

This Kar is back on Ebay again and the seller has lowered the starting bid price by $5,000 to $54,900:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…=STRK:MEWAX:VRI

-Fred-

This Kar is back on Ebay again with no changes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…em=220805097144

-Fred-

You will not find Ford part numbers stamped on the disc and pressure plate. The most number that may find would be ink stamped onto the friction material and that would only survive if it was not used as the first time you engage the clutch it would wear off.

-Fred-

Eddie, I am restoring a 66 Hipo fastback for a customer right now that had the GT350 windows installed. When those windows are installed there is a structure that holds the vent assemblies in place that needs to be cut out. To reinstall the vents that structure either needs to be welded back in from a donor car or you need to improvise the structure. You will need, at the very least, to observe another car with the vents not yet installed to see what has been cut out for the windows. It can be a pain in the neck to recreate the structure like what had to be done on my current project as I could not find a donor.

-Fred-

Some of the early rods have the oil passage but not all of them. The Boss 302 rods never have the oil passage.

-Fred-

Mark, You may be able to move the bracket but the numbers will still be wrong.

-Fred-

Some of the early rods have the oil passage but not all of them. The Boss 302 rods never have the oil passage.

-Fred-

Mark, Do you have the heavy spring under the dash that connects to the upper part of the clutch pedal and the clutch pedal support bracket? This spring is setup so that at about 2/3 of the way to the floor it acts as an assist and makes pushing the pedal the rest of the way to the floor have less pressure. Above the 2/3 mark it acts as a return spring. It is not in Daves illustration as it is under the dash and not under the car with the equalizer (Z) bar.

-Fred-

Mark in England is just used to the fact that on a lot of old British sports cars it is necessary to pull the engine to change the clutch. Old habits just die hard.

-Fred-

Bill, Did this happen recently or has it always been this way?

-Fred-

This Kar is back on Ebay again with no changes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

-Fred-

Steve, I just sent you a PM.

-Fred-

David, I am not computer savvy enough to post pictures so I am posting a link to what your fuel pump should look like. It will definitely have the button top as that basic design was still being used on some pumps up to 1971. The one in the picture is not a Hipo pump as it only has one return spring. If you want one that looks correct without being the elusive and expensive 3939-S Hipo one, I do have freshly restored ones available.

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…ms=65,fuel,pump

-Fred-

Steve, The one you are taking off may be a replacement but the numbers are correct for your Kar. If you just want to get it running, the aftermarket one is fine however you should still get yours rebuilt to put back on at a later date. My rebuilder has the proper cast iron 6 vane impeller to make yours correct when he rebuilds it.

-Fred-

Steve, The original 6 vane impeller is cast iron compared to the generic stamped steel replacement. I can also get your pump rebuilt and guarantee that you will get your original one back.

-Fred-

This Kar is back on Ebay again with no changes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…K%3AMEWAX%3AVRI

-Fred-