Posts by iowa_old

i shipped some things to germany last summer

that i needed on a jeep trip.

used flat rate boxes for around $50 apiece

the only problem my german friend had

was that all of them were opened

and they wanted him to pay tax

because they thought he had purchased

all this stuff on ebay

iowa

thanks for all the advise

i'm going to run all this

by the engine man

who's OH'ing my engine

iowa

back to the pressure plate

and disk

i've reviewed this thread

and am more confused than every to decide which way to go

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…1&TOPIC_ID=4251

if i decided on the centerforce system,

would i need the centerforce II system for 10"?

thanks

iowa

will be sandblasting this weekend

here's my apparel for doing this!

iowa

[Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/sandblasting_gear_copy.jpg]

could you provide a link

so i could check these out?

thanks

iowa

i'll give him a try

thanks

i've decided to buy a

new flywheel pressure plate and water pump

with ones should i get from npd or M unlim?

thanks

iowa

Sorry, more Q's

at NPD they talk about flywheels that are

certified 28 oz imbalance....what does this mean?

also, what is the flexplate?

thanks

iowa

[Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/2010_09_19_001_car_on_rotiss_good.jpg]

okay thanks

BTW we installed a new distr

in my son's car

other than fiddling with the

hex rod a little

it slipped right in

and ran perfect the 1st time!!

iowa

just a quick Q about my son's C code 3spd tranny

would a 'K' code toploader fit into his car?

thanks

iowa

here is the G503.com wwii jeep link about the crayon technique

http://g503.com/forums/viewtop…43&hilit=crayon

some claim that the jeep can sit out in the sun

for years and it won't bother

i'm not really advocating this method

just is what some do

iowa

in the wwii jeep world

we use a wht crayon to

whiten the raised letters!

sounds crazy

but some of us have

nice looking knobs 5-10 years post!!

iowa

thanks

we will do just that in the near future

it took patrick about 1/2 hr to get the

rod inserted into the oil pump right.

the rest went in without a hitch.

now he's putting in an 'H' pipe

and 'cut out's' on his exhaust system

iowa

should there be any rotational play

in this 'hex' shaft where it inserts

into the distr. shaft?

seems like it whould be flush

iowa

wasn't sure where to post this

so decided to put it here on my distr. thread.

my son and i installed a new distr. in his '66 C coupe

went right in, points were gap'ed perfect

and believe it or not,

the timing was perfect;

didn't have to adjust distr. base at all.

took a 100mi trip today, and it ran beautifully!!

my Q is about the hex rod that

connects the end of the distr. shaft

and the oil pump

someone has siliconed this rod into the base of the distr. shaft

is this supposed to be a 'snug' fit?

when one pulls out the distr.

is this rod come out too

or does it stay in the block connected to the oil pump?

also, there was a little rotation play

in it when fitted into the distr. shaft

is this normal?

thanks

iowa

is there a good thread

that explains how to correctly

install the distributor?

thanks

iowa

thanks caspian65

i didn't think of that!

makes one wonder about all the other difficult places

that rivets are used;

ie the chrome just medial to the drip rail!!

one would have to drill out sheet metal welds

to save these rivets

would anyone go to these lengths?

whoo...1 point hit!

i think the originality look would substract a couple of points!

thanks for advise

dave

i wouldn't restore the VIN door plate either

the nice old patina is irreplacable!!

BTW how did you manage to save the rivets?

iowa

thanks dave

i'll give it a try tomorrow

today i cut and have all the

little arms that are used

to hold the frame to the rotissorie

next will be to line everything up

and weld the jig tight

will be excited to see how things compare

to the shop manuals diagram measurements

dave

wow

enjoyed the pictures