Posts by bigal_old

    why screw up a good car if brakes arent up to your standard being a vintage system you may want to sell it to some one who would love to keep it the way ford intended it to be and buy a 2010 stang then pester ford for all the flaws that you will find

    If the gap is even across the back between the decklid and rear devider then its lined up, nothing else can be done. post some pictures. What I think you are saying is that the decklid is off on a side. I have seen alot of unrestored cars with the decklid being off on the left side of the car. this is fairly common. Mustangs were built without any quality control. I just reciently seen a unrestored two digit shelby with the issue above, sorry but in my opinion thats how they are.

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    Do any of you have a rawhide pull on the zipper fly for your rear window?

    Reason I ask is I have been shown a picture of an NOS rear window with the pull on it.

    I have found by the pictures that the correct color for this pull in Black Oil-Rubbed available from a leather supplier on-line and that about 8" will do the job-installing it the way the picture suggests.

    I have racked what little brain I have left and I DO remember my Mom's 1965 Convertible that she bought in 1967 having this pull.

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    On the zipper pull it depends on what manufacture the rear window was. some rear windows manufactures had it some didn't it depends look around at different original windows

    Too bad the car has 67 Torque boxes in it and was wrecked on the right hand side, and from the pictures the carpet don't fit either. Also look at the undercarriage contains the wrong front frame rail extensions. Also the front spring purches contain the anti sqeek pads a nono on concours. minus a few points their. Its got the wrong floor pan plug screws as well Congradulations on the Big Sale


    Edited by - bigal on 07/23/2009 17:34:45

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    I agree with Ray! Sitting around typing anonymous posts making snide remarks is making this site a real joke amongst the Old Ford community. Ive heard comparisons to Model A owners from the magazine people. If you dont want the part don't buy it. If you want a repo part buy it and pay the $75 from 67kcodeGT and hope he made it correctly with a deep draw die. Otherwise show some class and keep out of it. Its really none of your business. I was making this post for a friend who isn't in to computers who had 4 smashed hard 9 inch wrecks for the last 25 years and now he needs some $ to pay his medical bills. I am making a real killing selling them for him, so far Ive sold the other three and he got all the money. I showed him the posts you made and he didn't understand why anyone would do that. I hope making those post made you feel real good.

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    I 100% Agree

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    You don't have to drill out the brass threaded insert - you can use a broken bolt remover. Take out the sending unit and put in the bolt remover - one that fits down inside the bushing all the way and fits snugly - bushing should come right out.


    A late '65 intake will have the bushing, but earlier intakes will not have the larger 3/8" pipe thread hole - Ford switched sometime in late '64 or early '65 from the cast small 1/4" NPT hole to the larger 3/8" NPT hole - GT cars use the larger temp sending units, but the non-GT cars used the smaller 1/4" sending unit with the bushing.


    It doesn't matter which size you use - it is all resistance and you just need to use one that works correctly - AND like Murf sadi check your temps really well before during and after to make sure the guade is reading correctly.


    I don't have an infrared thermo - I have a Fluke meter with a thermal couple to check the water temp - does require leaving the system open or making a special fitting - but it works. Mine is nice because it is calibrated to a 1/2 degree.


    I've known old timers who used large meat themos in the radiator too.


    Just find something accurate to calibrate your guage....you don't want to over heat and not know it.

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    I second that. About the GT cars having the Larger Temp Sending Unit

    I have seen them for a couple hundered bucks. do you have the cam sprocket as well?

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    I would think a real cam thrust plate for a HIPO would be quite valuable.....I don't know for sure if they have a Ford part number on them or not, I think I've heard that they are being reproduced now as well.

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    I believe that the console in my '65 Convertible was installed off-center.

    It is very close to the passenger seat, and I can get my hand easily between thr drivers seat and the console-some say that Ford was notorious for this from the factory-I don't choose to believe this.

    Please tell me how YOUR console fits! Thanks!

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    My experience with consoles are they are all junk, chuckit to the curb. All they do is rattle and tattle, and in my opinion they look like an after thought like the pony interior. If your car is a 4speed its about impossible to install a console off center as the 4speed has to shift thru all the gears, without hitting the console. If you do look at a console out of a car they are off center when you look down at them.

    Big AL


    Edited by - bigal on 06/30/2009 07:10:45

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    Go look at the bolted on parts(brackets etc.)that are painted black on your every day late model car, those black painted parts are most likely eCoated.

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    Any chance of verifying the spec. finish on some of these parts using Ford docs? I could probably find most of the engineering numbers without too much trouble.

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    if you could get a hold of BRIAN from buckeye iam sure he could give you all the specs from today back to the 50ths as that is job he deals in the

    OEM coatings and runs the most up to date system in north east ohio the only one with PPG frame coati have seem this guy dip 57 chevys gtos gxts people from all over go to him to have him e coat whole cars and parts him and nate are very good buds

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    What kind of prep-work is necessary to do e-coat? Most of the parts I listed above usually have a shiny silver coating after you strip off the black, which I'm guessing is a zinc coat as a base. How does one address rust pits in the parts?

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    ecoat dont fill in pits as the film build is 1 mill but gives a great base to use high build primer then top coat the buckeye boys use high temp bake top coats BASF and PPG products that are OEM approved if you could see the coated parts on there show cars you can tell these are OEM coatings

    the buckeye boys have been using PPG power cron 8000 e-coat with a 10 stage pretreatment with zinc phos for years and every thing coated looks great and its a 60 gloss finish that looks great on a car plus the coating is super tough wont nick scrath or come off as the e-coat is used daily for OEM supliers