Posts by motor-racer_old

As you correctly state, the Ford 289 small block is externally balanced. This simply means that when the small block was designed, there was not enough space for sufficient weight on the crankshaft counterweights to balance all of the mass of the reciprocating parts (rods, pistons & rings). So they have to take care of the remaining imbalance on the flywheel, harmonic balancer and the hatchet. Therefore, an originally built motor must be balanced with the crankshaft, flywheel and harmonic balancer assembled together on the balancer machine.

Sorry, I do not know the proportions of the imbalance between the damper, hatchet and flywheel that you've listed. I'm not sure it matters to the guy doing your balancing as long as you make sure you've physically got correct and original parts. Bob mentions those numbers here (presume you've read this article?) : http://www.fordsmallblock.com/PDF/SmallBlockV8Balancing.pdf

Your last point is correct - fitting the pistons, rods and rings brings the whole lot back into balance.

I see you're in the UK. I recently had a 289 motor balanced by Steve Smith of Vibration Free (near Bicester) and from driving the new motor, it was an excellent job. He has balanced many Ford 289 motors (HIPO and non HIPO) and I would recommend him.

Hope that is some help.

Agreed!

I have had two pumps rebuilt by Fred now, and both are perfect in appearance and operation. Such a great project of his that means a lot of freshly restored pumps in service for another 40+ years...

Fred : How many have you actually rebuilt now? Over 500 yet?

Thanks again.

Date Code - Hood Latch Upper (3 22 2)

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Date Code - Hood Latch Vertical (5 6 2D)

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Just received my rebuilt fuel pump back from Fred. Well done Fred, perfect job, and it should do another 45+ years....

Sorry for the confusion, by oil pan I meant the lower face of the block that the oil pan covers when it's fitted. Freds description of the location of this is correct.

65 2plus2, thanks for the link. I thought I better start a new topic rather than continue hijacking your parts sale thread.....

On a couple of blocks that I've looked at I've noticed that the final letter code for the inspector is usually different between the oil pan stamping and the deck stamping, but the date code is the same. Such as :

5F2C on oil pan, 5F2S on deck

5E18C on oil pan, 5E18S on deck

Now, 65 2plus2 NOS block has a 6M28C on the oil pan. This fact, and from previous threads, I think general consensus is that the oil pan stamping is the finish machining date? Just say if you think that's wrong.

So, what about the deck stamping? On the examples I've seen, they have a different final letter to the oil pan, but the date code's the same. But it's hard to believe the motor could be finish machined and then fully assembled on the very same day? Maybe not?

Any other examples of oil pan and deck stampings on the same block? Is the date code always the same between the two?

Had a look at the photos of the NOS engine block for sale, and what was interesting to me is that it has an assembly date stamped on it (6M28C).

I always thought that the assembly date was stamped on when they actually built the motor. But as this is a NOS block it was never "built" as such, only finish machined.

So, perhaps the assembly date stamp is actually a machining date stamp?

K21 is 21st October 1965, but it's the date the casing was cast, not the build date.

This topic might help :

http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…e&TOPIC_ID=3450

And there should be a tag on the side of the gearbox that you can go to this site to decode :

http://mustangtek.com/transmission/Transmissions.html

Thanks Fred. Just what I needed to check.

Can anyone please let me know the dimensions of the original valve springs? Outer diameter and Inner diameter. Have some springs that I'm not sure about. Thanks in advance for any info.

Has anyone recently had a steering box rebuilt by Precision Products in Texas?

Are they still operating because it doesn't seem possible to get through to them via email or telephone?

Thanks.

Edited by - SixT5HiPo on 08/22/2009 23:16:47

Thanks Fred.

This will be an easy question for the experienced guys, before I squeeze the rivets down.....Can you please tell me if the clutch fork pivot(B9AZ-7522) should have the raised pivot part closest to the centre (as shown below) or furtherest from the centre (not as shown!)?

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Thanks for any help.

Relisted on EBay Australia with BuyItNow set at <b>AUS$59,000</b>

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Thanks for the info. The bracket does have a step on either end, so it's a 69/70 Mustang part and not for a 65 so no good to me. If anyone needs it or the date coded bumper brackets that came with it then just let me know.

I bought some front bumper parts and with them came this bracket - see photos below. Initially I thought it was junk, but then I noticed the Ford date code on it.

I cannot see where it goes on a '65 Mustang. Any ideas?

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Just refurbishing the steering column, box, etc. On the lower bracket (3668), there is a moulded rubber pad that sits between the bracket and the bottom of the steering column. In the Ford parts manual this is listed with the lower bracket under the same part number - 3668. Anyone know where to get this replacement rubber moulding?

Also, on the upper bracket (3676), there is a paper gasket that goes between the bracket and the dash where the whole assembly bolts up. Again, in the Ford parts manual this is listed with the upper bracket under the same part number - 3676. Know where to get that one?

I'm guessing these parts are not reproduced so it will be a matter of searching for NOS ones.

Thanks for any replies.

Excellent, exactly what I wanted. Thanks for that.

Anyone know where to get replacement steering box mounting bolts from? These are the 3 large bolts with flat washers that go through the chassis and thread into the steering box itself to hold it on to the car.

I can't see them on any of the normal suppliers or AMK.

Thanks for any help.

Sold for <b>$1625</b> by juliep6

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Up for auction are a date matched set of original 1965 Shelby GT350 or K code Mustang cylinder heads.

Date codes on head # 1 read 5 F 8 and head # 2 reads the same 5 F 8 which translates out to 1965 May 8th .

These virgin super low mileage heads are in such fantastic condition Both heads were hot tanked wire wheel cleaned in the combustion area and ports etc then the were

magnaflexed to make sure they were not cracked.

All this was done to show the quality of these original cylinder heads and reassure you when bidding.

The heads are such low mileage that they did not need to have their original guides replaced or touched for that matter (no knurling) the original valves were cleaned and ground as well as the seats new seals were installed also the heads were surfaced a minimum amount of .007 to make sure of a flat deck to head seal.

They are now ready to be installed on your show car or collectible Shelby GT350 or K code hipo car.

Bid with confidence and bid to win Shipping will be charged at the amount it actually costs Sometime I end up paying the extra for insurance or overages which I don't mind

Thanks for looking

<hr class="bbcode_rule" />
On Mar-27-09 at 19:12:37 PDT, seller added the following information:

The heads are date matched June 8th 1965

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

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