Posts by oscart_old

  • paxton and engine question

    The people at Paxton are correct. This supercharger does not put out much boost compared to many of todays superchargers. The best bang for the buck would be to contact a reputable custom cam provider like Flowtech Induction and have them design a cam for your forced induction setup. I have used two of Ed Curtis' cams and have been very pleased. Much more power everywhere in the power curve compared to any over the counter camshaft. Port matching and smoothing the ports won't get you much. If you do any work, get a good competition valve job done and have a reputable shop do some work in the bowl area behind the valves.

  • Motor Oil

    Like I said, Joe Gibbs BR racing oil. It is used exclusively for breaking in engines. Rotella is fine to. The most important thing is use plenty of cam lube, have the timing set pretty close to where it needs to be and prime the carb so the engine will fire and stay running right at the first tune of the key. But first pull the distributor and turn the oil pump drive shaft counter clockwise with a 1/4" socket and a long 1/4" extention. You can use a ratchet to do this to prime the oil pump. Also, don't use excessive valve spring pressures. If you are running dual springs, remove the center spring for break in. I just did my solid lifter (non HiPo) 289 this way. Also, if using a Comp Cams camshaft, use their lifter etc. I know I am missing other stuff, but this is what I did without problems.

  • Motor Oil

    If the engine is already broken in, the most important thing is to change the oil and filter regularly. Most people with vintage cars don't really drive their car that much so it is important to always have clean oil so that any particles in the oil to settle and create sludge. Also, dirty oil is acidic and can damage bearings. Rotella is a great oil for your V8 if you don't want to run synthetics. I broke in my 289 with Joe Gibbs BR Oil and changed to Rotella as per the performance shop that did my machining. So, basically, change your oil and your 289 will last your life time.

  • Hardened Valve Seats during Rebuild?

    As you know, the seats are only installed on the exhaust side. Make sure you get a good performance three angle valve job to help with the flow on those heads as well. Sometimes seats are installed on the exhaust and intake if the heads have had too many valve jobs or if they won't clean up because of deep pitting caused by rust.

  • VYNL TOP 65 COUPE

    The only problem with a vinyl top is that the factory didn't bother to paint the roof if it was going to be covered with vinyl. Many original cars suffered from serious rust issues hidden under the cover.

  • K rebody??

    There are way too many fake "k" cars, Chevelle SS, Hemi or what have you running around. Talking to the older folks, there are more SS Chevelles around now then there were in the late sixties or early seventies. Some people are fine doing a re-body and others seem to be fine owning a re-body as long as no one is the wiser. This is why documentation is so important when buying a "collectable" car. I don't mind paying the money for the real thing, but finding out later that what I bought wasn't genie would be heart breaking. But, buyer beware. Just take a look on Ebay at any Mustang being sold. Often, mistakes in the descriptions are made honestly. The word "hipo" is thrown around too often.

  • Current API Certified Motor Oil Concerns

    I just started my 289 for the first time this weekend. I used Joe Gibbs BR Oil which is the oil he uses for breaking in all of his racing engines. It isn't cheap, but I wasn't interested in wiping out my new custom grind solid lifter cam. After the twenty minute breakin, I changed the oil and replaced it with Rotella-T oil. I spoke to the racing shop that did my machining and her recomended that I continue to use it. Also, you can stay away from synthetics for engines using traditional lifters. Synthetics are just too slippery and can prevent the lifters from spinning properly. If you aren't driving your car 30,000 miles a year and change you change your oil often, you can use standard dynasaur oil and save money too.:)

  • Krylon vs VHT

    I have used the Ford engine paint kit from POR-15. So far I have used the kit on three engines, the oldest done four years ago. It still looks perfect and does not fade, stain or rust through like other brands. I actually brushed the paint on the block and it looks great. It can be thinned if you want to shoot it. I have used other major rattle can brands, but they just don't hold up.


    http://www.porcan.com/usa/enginepaint.asp

  • Autolite 4100 Tag Decode

    Okay, more information. First after some cleaning of the tag I can read the top of a "4" between the "c" and "G".

    Stamped on flange is c4GFAE.

    Venturi size of 1.08 is cast into side with a 13 or 18 cast about 3/8" above that.