Posts by oscart_old

If you want to just tell people you have a 9" then go ahead and install one. With street tire, no way will you brake a decent 8". I used to race a fellow in a 1967 Cougar (slicks) who went from a modified 289 to a built 351W and finally to a 460. He only changed to a 9" when he went to to the big block. He was running low 11's in the quarter with nitrous and a "mild" 289. Sorry, but you just won't brake the 8" with street tires. You just can't produce enough torque with street tires to bust that ring and pinion or the axles for that matter. And 350 HP in todays world is considered mild.

If you are concerned about breaking parts first:

-replace your u-joints with solid units

-upgrade to a race driveshaft and yoke

-install a driveshaft safet loop.

Once this is done, if you want, go for the 9". Having a drive shaft rattle around lose under the car or worse can really ruin your day.

Caspian, that is the correct way which eliminates issues caused by the factory TDC method which assumes that all camshafts have the same base circle. I have used the factory setup and double checked it using methods that Comp Cams recommends and have found that the factory setup does not work well with aftermarket cams at least.

Have you disconnected the transmission crossmember? This should help as you can pull the snout down for more access.

Unless you plan on drag racing the car, the 8" is plenty strong. You will not break this unit with radial street tires. Plus, it is a lighter unit which reduces the unsprung weight. Traction lok units are available for the 8" as well. Unless the 9" was original to the car, I would stick with the 8" and put my money elsewhere.

Something does not jive. I wouldn't be surprised if there is another Mustang already running around or parked somewhere else with that vin.

No doubt he has the registration, but the car may have been sold years back without the paperwork.

Quote from dunc289

You might want to get a set of good factory rockers and put them aside, so that an original set up is still in your possession. fresh push rods and lifters too. And while we are on the subject of wear, remember that the ZDDP has been removed from nearly all motor oils, and those that do not take steps to suppliment their valuable collector cars risk catastrophic engine failure. and if you have untreated Marine engines, failure there would bring new meaning to " nightmare ".

Do not replace the lifters unless you plan on replacing the camshaft at the same time. The lifters and cam lobes on initial startup and breakin lap together and are hardened and can be considered a matched set. Don't replace one without the other.

I just re-read your post. Chances are if your rocker arms are worn out then the chances are good that the top of the valves stems are worn as well. Check it out. Your engine will wear as a unit. The chances are, your heads could use a fresh valvejob and freshening up.

I am running cast aluminum Offenhauser covers. I am also using the extra thick Felpro valve cover gaskets.

I second the Crane Gold 1.6 ratio roller rockers. I am using a set on my

5.0 and they are quieter then the cheaper Crane (Cobra) Energizer rockers. I have used Ford Racing as well (looks like Crane). I am also using Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers on my solid lifter 289. Also 7/16" studs. Now is also the time to change out the springs. If you do not want to do this, have a race shop recommend the proper springs and spring heights to match your cam and have them install them. Too high a spring rate can damage the cam and rob horsepower. And not enough... Also, quality light weight (titanium) retainers and machined (not stamped) locks are safe insurance. Or, you can just install the roller rockers. Before you install them, soak them in Varsol or mineral spirits and work the trunion back and forth to work out the assembly grease. The grease was used to keep the needle bearings in place during assembly and not to lubricate them. Dry of the rocker and now soak them in oil. This will greatly extent the life of your rocker assembly.

The doubling up of the intake gasket doesn't make sense. If it is just a few small pock marks then that should not cause a sealing problem. Often, an old iron head that has been sitting a long time will have badly rusted seats that will not cleanup and will need inserts. Have the heads been machined in the past? It is possible there is just not enough material left.

Hmm. I thought the first Mustang sold to the public was a pre-sale date Mustang that was on display on the east coast and accidentally sold by an eager sales person to a pilot. Ford eventually bought Mustang #1 back.

You really need to measure for pushrod size to maintain proper valve train goemetry. Factors like head gasket thickness, and milling of the deck and cylinder head and camshaft will influence the length of your pushrod. I measured for both my small blocks. Check out the following link. You can throw in a standard set of pushrods, just like you can install a camshaft and not check it with a degree wheel, but you don't want to do that.

http://www.competitioncams.com/Technical/FAQ/FAQPushrods.asp

It is good to see old collectible cars "saved". But, if I were in the market for a Shelby, I would have to pass on these types of restorations. Might as well pay the bucks for a real good one. Here is another one. This person ownes a business and wanted to try all new Dynacorn panels.

http://www.kmclassicautoparts.com/Rustang_Restoration.htm

I am using Comp Cams Hi-Tech hardened pushrods in my solid lifter 289 and roller 5.0. Can't go wrong with Comp Cams.

I have had a single pot master cylinder fail in my 1966 Mustang. The car is very well maintained and the failed unit was a fairly new Wagner part. When you lose hydraulic pressure, you have zero brakes. I will be switching over to a dual pot MC. No modifications to the car need to made that will effect the value. Anyone that knows you are driving the car can appreciate this safe insurance and it is very easy and cheap to return to the original unit. If you are concerned about value, a wreaked Mustang isn't worth much. A car rarely driven needs to switch over even more as the cast iron cylinders will rust when not used and increase the chance of failure.

Here is a set for $600.00 in the Seattle-Tacoma area.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/561577138.html

I think this one is nice from a distance. The paint job is questionable for a car of this value. Easily seen from just a few photos:

1966 Hub caps

No bumper guards

Black rattlecan paint job on floor and trunk

Shifter is wrong and would want to check if floor cut.

Speakers in back trunk/seat board

late model master cylinder

These are not big deal but should really bring the price down and make anyone really want to check this car out very closely before purchasing.

Another article that says seven Canadian cars.

http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/20…_feature15.html

Here is a Falcon model 62A that sold.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Down…nroach/kenr.htm

I like the car but it is a bit pricey for what it is. It has also been on the market for quite a while. Sweet ride though.