I went with the 3/4 inch grade 5 and they worked perfectly. They push through the back of the pulley a bit, but not more then a 1/4 an inch.
I think either a 1/2 or 3/4 will work just fine.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I went with the 3/4 inch grade 5 and they worked perfectly. They push through the back of the pulley a bit, but not more then a 1/4 an inch.
I think either a 1/2 or 3/4 will work just fine.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I just replaced a heater control wire that broke off at the end. Man those are some boogers to get to. I thought I'd never get the z end that connects to the switch in place!
I currently have the stock 65 HiPo pulley if that helps any.
Thanks for the info.
I went with this Wilwood front disk brake upgrade as an alternative to the SSBC (#5)
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Pages/08/index.asp
Next on the list is these as a rear upgrade to disk from the stock drums. http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Pages/12/index.asp
My Flame Thrower II Ignition is on order as is my Flame Thrower II Coil. They should be in this week. (back order from Christmas)
The 7.0MM Pertronix wires are installed, though I'm not as satisfied with the length compared to the hipo wires. I also went ahead and replaced the plugs. I'm 95% sure I had a fouled plug.
I'll keep you posted once it's all installed.
I went ahead and started a new thread for the 130 AMP alternator.
I'm installing an electric fan and must upgrade my alternator. Any suggestions?
Well the Old Air electric fan is ready to be dropped in, but there's still one question that needs to be answered.. Ok 2 questions.
1. After removing the factory spacer and fan I need 4 shorter bolts to secure the water pump pulley. What size are these bolts and what length should I get as a replacement?
2. Any suggestions for a stock looking 130 AMP replacement alternator.
(I'll be keeping all my factory parts labeled and organized, so no need to ask if I'm getting rid of anything.)
Thanks guys.
Great now I finally know where to dig around to find numbers on my car.
Yes I was pretty sure it was a 66 rear end.
My question is how do I tell if it's a 8" or 9".
Where would the tag be? I'm guessing probably not though.
My car's a 65, but it looks like its a 66 rear end. Is it at least a 9"? If so, how can I tell? http://flickr.com/photos/bramick/3083164588/
Thanks guys. I test the blower and go from there.
I'm pretty sure mine is a 2 speed system. Middle is off. Left is low. Right is high.
I'm looking at my 65 Shop Manual 16-4..
My blower isn't coming on at all using the heater controls. Looks like it's one of the following issues:
1. Burned out fuse or loose wires.
2. Defective motor ground, or defective blower motor.
4. Defective motor switch.
Originally the heater worked, but given I don't drive it a lot in colder weather. So a some point it stopped working. I'm thinking it's probably a fuse/loose wire or motor switch.
Any suggestions on what it probably is?
Looks like I'll be buying a wiring manual too. Probably this one: http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/catalog/shop/item.asp?itemid=LT265
I just picked up a thermostat housing gasket from Dallas Mustang Part and there is a lot of overlap around the edges. In some places the gasket is almost 1/4" larger then the housing. Is this normal?
Can I just trim the gasket around the edges once it's stuck to the housing or should I choose from another vendor?
Quote from s2msCharging system:
Solid state voltage regulator. These are still available from Ford, FPOZ-10316-A, Motorcraft# GR-540-B. Drill out the cover rivets and attach an AMK or nice original cover for the correct look.
It's showing it for 67-70. Is that ok?
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/catalog_site/M…_Site/00100.htm