Are you shooting with a polarizer? On first glace check the red reflection on the door panel. Might be worth removing.
Posts by Bramick_old
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Jay'S Auto And Performance
(940) 383-2305
2364 Chinn Rd, Denton, TX 76207
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After hearing more about my compression test I think it's worth having someone more knowledgeable look at my car.
Any suggestions in the DFW area?
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No a vacumm test is next on my list.
I'll be heading over to a friends soon so he can show me how to adjust my valves as well. They haven't been done in the 5/6 years I've had the car, so I know it's crucial.
The car has been a garage queen so I didn't worry about it too much, but since I'm trying drive it more I want to make sure it's in working order so I don't damage the motor during routine cruising. I just did a tune up and replaced the plug wires. And I'm almost finished with the Ignitor II and Coil install. Other then making sure everything is working fine I'm with the "modifying".
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Static as detailed in the shop manual. Although I didn't do mine at normal operating temperatures because I'd prefer not to burn all my hands to pieces trying to remove plugs from a warm motor.
I found where a variance of 20psi is acceptable, but it doesn't say whats a "normal reading".
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We'll time for the install, but I can't seem to figure out which original wire connects to the + and which connects to the - of the Flamer Thrower II coil.
I have 1 red with white stripe wire running to what is labeled as Battery on the yellow cap coil.
I have 2 green wires connected to what is labeled Dist. I goes to the ignition (I assume or is this for the rally pack) and the other is going to the dist, but will be removed during the Ignitor II electronic ignition install.
Which goes to which?
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Ok here's my numbers
Cylinder/psi
1 110
2 115
3 117
4 130
5 125
6 120
7 122
8 125
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My Dearborn Kar was also done with the red oxide.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bramick…57604422139176/
[Blocked Image: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3222/2614026503_dd1bb73170.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3031/2614857992_0022f2b16e.jpg]
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I did a search and didn't find any K Kars. Anyone else see any coming up at the Jan Fl event?
I"ll be watching for the Shelby creation that's scheduled for 9:35pm tonight. That one looks pretty nice.
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In case #2 was unclear. Let's say for example the cylinders have a compression that ranges from 120-125. (We'll assume this is an acceptable range, which is my first question).
What's the upper and lower limits at which point the engine needs more inspection. For example if every cylinder was in the 70psi range I guessing that's probably bad.
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1. What's an acceptable compression tolerance between the cylinders?
2. Given the variance in pressures is under the tolerance for the cylinders what's a max and min pressure before I should consider having someone look at the motor?
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Thanks, that makes sense. I'll be able to find it.
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Ok I found some for sale, where's it located? I'm guessing under the dash close by the turn signal indicator.
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Where is the turn signal flasher located and who sells one?
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Oops. I missed that section. I'll check it out.
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What are my options for stopping, slowing, preventing or correct rust? For ex:
http://flickr.com/photos/bramick…57604422139176/
I'd like to stop this from continuing or restore it if possible.
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This isn't an intro of a new member per say, but I thought it would be nice if we could post photos of our cars.
Post photos of your Kars!
I'll start:
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ok, so I'm an admin for a flickr.com group that only focuses on Muscle Cars as defined by: http://www.musclecarclub.com/musclecars/gen…efinition.shtml
According to this page a HiPo isn't a Muscle Car unless it's a GT, Mach 1 or Boss. Do you agree?
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I came across this page and it has some good info and diagrams.
