Thanks Dave that is exactly what i needed. I'm debating rather or not I should remove the 3x2 on my engine and put it back stock. It has what appears to be a mechanical temp gague now that does not work. Thanks again for the help.
Gary
Thanks Dave that is exactly what i needed. I'm debating rather or not I should remove the 3x2 on my engine and put it back stock. It has what appears to be a mechanical temp gague now that does not work. Thanks again for the help.
Gary
Ken... The only ones I know of are as follows:
B = 1950's
C = 1960's
D = 1970's
E = 1980's
F = 1990's
That is not to say Ford didn't use a Z I've just never heard of it before but my knowledge is limited. I bet someone on HPM will have the answer.
Gary
Ron.... couple more questions if I may. Can you also show me a pic of the temp sending unit on your K? Mine temp gague is inop and I'm trying to trouble shoot it. Isn't it supposed to be elect. gagues?
Will the stock hood clear the 3 duces? If it does it has to be a tight fit.
Thanks,
Gary
Noel,
Thanks for the tips. I'm not sure if the alternator is original or not. Was told that it was but I have yet to verify that. As for the battery I was thinking of ordering one from CJ Pony and just use it for show. Not sure that is a good idea but I was thinking of leaving the acid out and just mount the battery for show. Never been a participant at a show and don't know if I can do that.
Gary
Ron,
Yeah, but man you have a much better looking engine and bay than I do. I hope to have that change by the weekend but I think it will be hard to match yours. Very nice.
One question about the 3 duces. Is the middle carb supposed to have an automatic choke? Can you post a pic of that side of your engine?
Thanks,
Gary
Ralph.... Actually the replaced rivits is probably better. As I remember from days long gone the rivits were a problem. I sent you an email.
Thanks
How far are you from Deland? Maybe we can arrange to get together. I'm not sure about the parts yet. I still have to decide if I am going to replace the "Tear Drop" hood and 3 duces. The 3 duces are supposed to be dealer installed when car was bought. No way to prove that one.
I have the original hood but it will need painting. I think I have the correct date intake and I have the original 4100 carb that came off the car. Not sure if I am going to go back original on the carb or not yet.
The last thing I have to decide on is do I want to change out the bell housing? I think it has a Lakewood on it now. The bell housing I have to replace that with is not date correct for the car and one of the pilot flanges are broken.
Looking forward to meeting you sometime in the near future.
Gary
Quote from SPECIAL EDThanks for all your e-mails and calls inquiring about my Mustang. The day after I posted my thoughts on selling I decided to do so and I got a buyer that day. The sale is in process. If it does not work out, I will notify those who expressed interest and made offers. Thanks again.......Ed
Good Luck on your pending sale Ed. I hope you get your full asking price.
Gary
Thanks Mark.... the pics would be a great help to me. Please let me know when you post them.
Gary
Can someone post a pic or give a good description of where the temp sending unit is located on a 66 K?
Thanks... Gary
Quote from 66KGTA rust free 44,000 mile car I'd be tempted to do nothing to it other than maintenance and aquiring some of the correct parts that may be gone. Unrestored can be good!
Hmmm.... you bring up a very good point. Do you think I should just clean it up in the engine bay and not paint? The only parts I see that need replacing are the following:
1. Alternator
2. Windshield washer bag and hose
3. Battery (proper one)
4. Clutch (Current one requires a gorilla to depress it)
5. Transmission (Current one is a RUG?)
6. Coil
7. Proper Cap and wires
8. Maybe the exhaust (has new exhaust but I am unsure if it is correct for the car)
9. Oil Pan (Someone put a modified pan with increased oil capacity)
10. Remove long tube headers and install original headers that came with the car.
I think that is the only parts I would have to purchase and/or replace. Believe it or not it still has the original radiator cap. Maybe a new cap would be needed. ![]()
Thanks... Gary
Thanks Joe... Yeah, I think you are correct on the interior. Although, I have seen some really nice ones that were re-done.
I think I will pull the engine and pressure clean and paint it along with the bay and leave it at that. Do you know if the bell housing is also painted the same color as the engine?
Thanks, Gary
Richard... Thanks for your help. Replaced the sending unit and oil gague works perfectly.
Gary
Hello all.... I'm getting ready to start my restoration project and would like some opinions. My car has 44,000 original miles and the body is as rust free and straight as you can get. The interior (F4) is original and looks good... not new but darn good for a car of it's age.
The engine and engine bay are dirty and needs to be cleaned and detailed. The engine runs strong and does not smoke. I purchased all the parts from NPD today to completely recondition the engine and bay. I will start pulling the engine out tomorrow.
Question 1: Would you leave the interior as is or replace with new?
Question 2: Would you rebuild the engine regardless of how good it runs now?
Question 3: Under carriage was undercoated. Would you clean it off and restore to original color or just re-spray with under coat?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.... Gary
Thanks Richard.... that's exactly what it did.
Gary
Hello all.... My oil pressure gague is acting rather strange. When you turn the key to ignition the gague pegs out on the high side and remains there after starting engine. Would the most probable cause be the sending unit? Hope it's not the gague itself.
Any help appreciated. Gary
Hello,
Looking to buy a HEH-T for my 1965 K
Thanks,
Gary
Quote from CharlesTurnerI use a large stainless steel pot for the hood hinges. The solution is about $20 for enough to mix like 2-3 gallons of phosphate. Heat the solution up in the stainless pot to 200 degrees F and then cook the hinges about 15-20 minutes for desired darkness.
Where is the best place to purchase the solution?
Thanks,
Gary