Posts by garymcgowan_old


    Alex,


    I sent you an email. Are the date codes OK for a Mar 02, 1966 build date? If so, I will take it. Let me know payment details.


    Gary

    Ron,


    Thanks very much. I will give it a try tomorrow using your pictures as a guide. If I can't get it I will send it to you. Also, I am going to take some pictures of my 3x2's and let you look at the linkage. Doesn't seem to be like yours. My intake appears to be polished.... maybe a previous owner did it.


    I was told my intake and carbs were installed by the dealer when the original owner bought the car. Do you know what numbers I should look for to verify it is Ford equipment?


    Gary

    Quote

    Sorry for the confusion everyone!!! I inadvertently posted the rear end photo from another listing to this one. The e-bay seller did not post that picture on the e-bay listing. I apologize to any and all for my mistake. Picture has been removed.


    Thanks for clearing that up and no apology is necessary.


    Gary

    Quote from boss1

    I have never seen a vin on the mating surface, they are always on the rough cast part towards the front of the motor. If you don't see it...look again, scrub harder, get out the super high power flashlight or some silly putty. If it is original...the number will be there.


    I think I can see what appears to be the K faintly. Good suggestion with the silly putty, I will try that this weekend. I'm sure it is original because all the dates check out as follows:


    Engine Block Casting Number: 0/C5AE-6015-E

    Engine Block Casting Date: 5K30 (10/30/1965)

    Engine Assembly Date: 6B17C (Febuary 17, 1966)

    Vehicle assembly date: 02C (March 2)


    The Heads, Main Caps, Rod Bolts, Hatchet Weight and HIPO balancer all verify as being K Code.


    I am going to pull the engine to detail it and the bay. I bet I will find the number then. It is very hard to look at that area with a light.


    Thanks for your input.


    Gary

    Quote from CharlesTurner

    The '66 rally-pacs came in at least black, white, red or blue.


    I thought they came in different colors but wasn't sure. Do you know who or what determined what color you got when a K code was ordered new?


    Thanks,


    Gary

    I did a search but was unable to get an answer to this. It seems I remember the rally pac comming in black as well as white or an off white color. Can someone verify this and if they did come in different colors what determined the color for the car.


    Thanks... Gary

    Quote from Kman

    Gary - The one I just bought came from Mustangs Unlimited (only about a 1/2 hour from my house) but most of the Mustang vendors do carry them - Love your car by the way, great color combo and IMHO the tri power setup is a winner - I would leave it for sure.


    Jack


    Thanks Jack.... When I first saw the Emberglo Metalic on the computer I wasn't sure I would like it or not. When I saw it in person I was sold on it. The F4 interior trim was the crowning touch for me.


    Yes, I'm going to keep the tri power on the car. I'll just put the original carb and manifold on the shelf. Funny thing, I was going to take the headers off and put the original manifolds back on but it appears these are Tri Y headers. Now, if they are originals I will be one happy camper.... that is doubtful. Is there any numbers I could check for?


    Thanks again for the kind words and the info on the correct battery.


    Gary

    Ron, Thanks for the link. It would probably be next to impossible to find the parts necessary to install the original choke but I did find this nice little piece from Holly and being sold by Summit. It allows you to hook up a manual choke to the 2300C in lieu of the automatic.


    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hol…sspagenameZWD1V


    This one allows you to convert the heat actuated choke to be fully electronic:


    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hol…sspagenameZWD1V


    Check these out and let me know your opinion about which one you would recommend using.


    Gary