Posts by SPECIAL ED_old

For those of you who don't drive or start the car during the winter....If you change the oil in the fall, do you change it again in the spring? Why not leave the 2006 oil in and change it one time in the spring?

Hope mine is in the mail when I get home this evening.

What...no whitewalls???

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Yet another reason I left Chicago !

Don...the DSO for my K was Chicago. It spent its whole life in IL. until I brought it to NY in August from Palatine IL. Near your old neck of the woods?

Update on my K issues:

1- Ball joint replaced. Front end is new. Must have been defective.

2- No horns was just a broken wire under the dash-easy fix. Done.

3- No brake lights was just the switch. Fixed.

4- Alignment will be done soon.

5- Battery not charging was the regulator. Replaced it.

6- Valves will be adjusted soon. Around 900 miles on this rebuilt K.

Is it better to adjust the valves hot or cold?

7- Exhaust system removed and reinstalled correctly. No problem.

8- Bought new spare matching existing tires and new styled steel

wheel. Wish they made the threaded hold down rod long enough to hold the styled steel wheel spare right side up. In my fastback I had to turn it upside down and then go through a lug nut hole. Tempted to make my own rod long enough to hold the wheel in the center and right side up.

9- Trunk leak- Wrong lid gasket. Will be replaced with correct one.

10- Cowl leak- very small leak thank goodness. I have fixed these before from under the dash. No problem. Even found a way to suck out any debris that may be stuck in the cowl corners. Will be repaired in the off season.

11- Rocker panels have been buffed out. No more white clearcoat haze.

12- Mustang shop checked out the door issue. They said no problem.

Just an Adjustment with the door and fender. No indication of an accident anywhere.

Gonna replace 5 Uniroyal Tigerpaw whitewalls in the spring with black or red walls. Spare is new and 4 on car have lots of thread. Nothing wrong with them. I just prefer black or red walls. Selling all 5 whitewalls for $150. Ed

Would love to drive in the winter as weather permits but with all the salt on the roads up here....thats a no no. Never had a problem with a carb in the spring if I used stabil during the winter.

I do the stabil and roll it 2 or 3 feet forward and back each week to avoid tire flat spots and to turn the wheel bearings. Take the battery out and trickle charge it each month. Why not leave the oil and change it before firing it up in the spring? Some folk recommend starting it up now and then but I don't like to do that. Gets real cold in upstate NY so I would rather let it sleep. Thinking about draining the coolant. When it gets real cold hoses contract and coolant could leak. Happened to me once at the heater box. Don't want that stuff getting on the carpet. When the temp drops below 15 degrees I check the clamps and tighten them if necessary.

Well..It's getting towards that time of year for us northern folks. What do you do to your K, if anything, before and during a 5 month rest?

Ditto...We are here to share your resto experience with you and help out any way we can. Best of luck and congratulations! Ed

Quote from Darv

I went and looked at this car a couple of months ago. It's a nice "go to the burger shop on a Sat night" car, but its by no means a show car. Nor worth near 40K (more like 25-30)

Just Curious...What was not "meticulously restored?"

Hi Hank..Are there any left? I would like to buy 2.

Remember FM converters? As long as your original AM radio works you are good to go. That is all I ever use in my AM classic cars to produce FM music. Easy hook up, hides in console or glove compartment, very good reception and keeps original AM radio appearance. I bought some at an electronics show a few years back. Hard to find but I have seen them on ebay. I think I have one left if anyone is interested.

What fender covers? If they are still available I would like some more info. thanks. Ed

Thanks Dunc289...Ordered the 4th edition around 3 weeks ago. Can't wait til it arrives. I am overall pleased with my "new" K code. There were some issues I was not aware of. Nothing horrible but things that are being corrected if possible. One bad ball joint, no horn, no brake lights, alignment needed, battery not charging, valves need adjusting, mufflers installed backwards, no spare, cowl and trunk leak. Paint is real nice except the rocker panels have a white haze. Seller said clearcoat needs to be buffed out. Will be trying polishing compound. Passanger door closes ok but there is very little clearance between the rear quarter AND the front fender. Seems like the door is "squeezed" in between. Front fender has been adjusted forward as far as it can go without creating a gap between it and the lower windshield molding. Door needs to be adjusted foward though. I can here some air noise between door and front fender. Also..top rear of window sometimes makes contact with the stainless steel body molding. Don't know what to do. Any suggestions? As far as the drive..WOW...WHAT A BLAST! I have had 3 other 65-66 289 ponys...C & A codes. Absolutely no comparison. The raw power, speed and special handling package makes you want to drive all day until you look at the gas guage. Now that I know what it is like to drive a K, I could not go back to a C or an A code. Ready to winterize soon. Later ...Ed

I will take 2 of #1......Ed

Thanks 66KGT

I keep the outside of my MC covered with a light coat of WD 40. No more rust.

My understanding of this lingo is:

Color and color means 2-color seats with appointments being the first color.

Color with color appointments means one color seats but the dash, door panels and possibly the rally pac were the second color.

Could not have rear vertical bumper brackets but I do beleive back up lights were available on GT's.

Howdy......Can someone tell me why the coil is located in different places from one K to another? Actually I notice the same on A and C codes too. Can't find an explaination. Thanks...Ed