Posts by 65shelby_old

    Hello all,

    I hope everyone had a safe and happy Thanksgiving holiday.


    Well, engine is in and running. I still have one lifter knocking so I must not have set it properly. But it runs, HOORAY!!


    My total outlay for the rebuild and restoration was about $2500.


    It was about $850 for machine work including balancing and heads.

    Mine had never been bored so I only went .020" over.

    Another $850 in engine internal parts including forged pistons.

    The balance was bolt-ons and engine bay stuff. This included everything necessary to freshen the engine bay (some wiring harnesses, alternator, air cleaner, valve covers, carb. kit, dist. cap, plugs, wires, hoses, clamps, fuel pump, paint, brake lines, etc.


    Total time is probably 175-200 hrs. spent over three months to complete it. Every part was sand blasted, primed and painted. I used all my original hardware so each screw, nut and washer got degreased and wire brushed. I assembled the engine myself too, great fun!!


    Everything takes twice as long as you think......

    For example, I spent 2 hrs. removing the exhaust donuts as they became one with the H-pipe flanges and I had to chisel them out. I should have done it with the engine out but would have thought they'd be difficult. I think they were the originals as the H-pipe has never been changed.


    Always allow plenty of time and don't get in a hurry. It'll still be there tomorrow........


    I will post some pics once it's complete, I promise. I can also send in process pics by e-mail if anyone's interested.


    I still have to fix the lifter knock, mount the hood hinges and align the hood, bleed the brakes (new SS lines), and splice a three prong alternator harness plug into my gauge harness (mine is MIA). With any luck I'll be motoring by next weekend.


    Thanks for your time........


    Mark

    Thanks for everyone's help.

    I am an MCA member so I'll look there as well.


    I did discover something that contradicts what I've read/seen thus far. In doing the final cleaning of my balancer, it had old Ford Blue paint in areas that was basically impervious to everything including hot tanking and mild sand blasting. The rest of the balancer had a goldish treatment on most of it, but absolutely no black anywhere.

    My Dad restores NCRS grade Corvettes and swears that the balancer was on the motor when painted (that's how Corvette's are) and this blue paint finding leads me to believe that.


    In conclusion, I believe assembly line balancers were metal prepped/etched and painted after assembly, and the over the counter units were indeed semi-gloss black. Possibly a Detroit trait??


    I'll leave this open to further discussion but my motor was basically untouched, including an original Ford C2 178deg. thermostat. Any further opinions????


    I'll be painting it later this week.........


    Thanks for your time,

    Mark

    Hello all,

    I need some info. on detailing my '66 engine after re-assembly.

    My car is an un-restored original with one repaint so I'm not looking for perfect-perfect concourse correct. I also freshened the engine bay while it was empty.

    I've studied numerous engine pics and all are slightly different.

    My basic question is what bolt-ons were on the long block when it was painted originally at the factory. My long-block is now together on the stand ready for finish assembly and paint. I'm unsure what was painted on the block and what was pre-painted and then bolted on showing unpainted bolts and gaskets.


    Parts in question:

    - Intake, Oil Pan, Timing Cover, Water Pump, and balancer.


    Most of the balancers I've seen have been black but I've also seen them blue as well.


    Any help would be appreciated and I can post pics if interested of the build-up and end result for the other novices like myself.:shy: