My original hose from the PCV to the HiPo riser is about 1 inch shorter than the reproductions. I bought a replacement (probably Scott Drake with Ford p/n) and it was too long. Could it possibly be for PCV to air cleaner or carb. on non-hipo cars? I returned it and was told they'd never experienced that issue before.
I cleaned my original and re-used it.
Anyone else have this problem??
Mark
Bill,
not sure of the manufacturer as I bought them used off of a show car. They're probably Coker's though. They are Firestone's and have the recessed Red Lines. They look awesome but ride and handling leaves a lot to be desired. If you're traveling 50 miles or less locally then they're fine. Over that and I'd opt for some radials. I'm thinking about buying a repro set of SS wheels and Dual Redline radials for driving and save the 'skinny's' for shows. I believe Coker offers BF Goodrich redlines now and Diamond Back will make them up from about any tire at your request but also have they're own line. My dad has a set of Gold Line Diamond Back's on his '63 Corvette and loves them.
Hope this helps,
Mark
Marcus,
Welcome to the Hipo eKschange!!
I may be mistaken but I believe I bought a car from you earlier in the year. It was a '66 Dk. Blue GT350R Coupe replica that was numbered and lettered up. You shipped it to me here in Charlotte, NC.
Drop me a line some time and let me know how you're doing.
Happy Holidays,
Mark Young
My '65 is an A-code GT350 R-Model replica which is what the transmission is for. My '66 is a K-GT 4/66 build and has an HEH-BX.
Since my '65 is not a K-code, I thought I'd offer up the tranny for someone who might need an HEH-T for their early K-restoration. I'd take another -BX as a trade or 3rd party purchase/trade to put back in it.
Thanks for the detailed insight though, especially for others that have those 'tweener' Kars.
Mark
I'll wait a little to see if Tom can provide some pics of his cancer areas and I'll curtail the repair procedure to his project.
I wish I had pics of the similar repair I did like that but do not.
The repair itself is quite similar to a std. floor pan section replacement only the weld is thru contours which are a little more tricky to finish off than a cut in the tunnel area. The biggest task is removal/install of the convertible over-the-hump seat riser and it's many spot welds.
I'll cover that when we hear back from Tom.......
Mark
Mark
I happened to check the top loader for my '65 R-model replica today. It's an HEH-T which is correct for an early Hipo mustang (too bad it's not an aluminum case - wishful thinking.....lolol). It's rebuilt with less than a thousand miles on it.
I'd be willing to trade for a comparable rebuilt HEH-BX if anyone's interested. I want a Hipo tranny for my '65 but it doesn't have to be this one, especially if it'll help someone further a correct k-restoration. It's not for sale outright, only for trade. Exception would be cost to purchase another -BX that's available from a third party. Otherwise, it'll be going back in my '65 within the next few months.
Mark
Are you having it done or are you doing it yourself?
The process is tedious but very do-able with a little know-how and welding expertise. You'll need a good wire-feed MIG welder (I have a Millermatic 135 120v) which works excellent on sheet metal. Using a TIG welder would be optimum but they're expensive and challenging to operate.
I can lay out a step-by-step process either here or off-line via e-mail if you're interested.
It would also help to have some snap shots of the areas, particularly where the pan joins the toe board in the front where an add'l seam is present.
Best of luck and let me know if I can be of assistance!
Mark
I buy/sell & broker vintage Mustangs and my Dad has always done the same with Corvettes. We've always been honest on our descriptions when selling and have refused many as well when going to purchase based on inaccurate representations. Talk is cheap and there's no substitute for seeing it first hand.
I bought my first K-car last April. I utilized this site as a non-member doing some research, to gain more knowledge prior to a purchase. I did buy it sight-unseen but it was from a long-time family friend and I had lots of pics. I bought it as a keeper and is the reason for joining this fine on-line institution.
In reading the posted ad above for the '66 K-FB, the seller references block casting numbers (does the date coincide with the build date of the car ?)but doesn't guarantee it's an original hipo motor. That to me says he's either not a guru, is truly not sure and is trying to be honest, or does know but is trying not to snuff out all hopes to a potential buyer that it could be the right motor. No where did he state that it was a guaranteed original hipo, #'s matching or otherwise. I obviously don't know what transcribed in conversation but his ad states what he had - A 66 K-GT fastback project with uncertainty about the motor. The buyer stated that it was indeed a factory K-GT and with some disassembly discovered that it wasn't a hipo short block. It did however have hipo heads. If it also had the big balancer, I would be inclined to believe that it may just be a hipo motor without a vin #. His price was reasonable and the car sounds as described per the posted ad. Case closed.
All buyers need to do their homework and verification in any situation, prior to purchase. If the seller is not willing to cooperate with specific detailed pics (can sometimes really be a pain in the butt) then hop on a plane and go verify it yourself. Otherwise, forget about it.........
Just thought I'd stir the pot with my $.02.......
Mark
66KGT,
thanks for posting my pics. I'll have to get an on-line picture site so I can post again myself.........
Mark
I'll chime in on this one.
I personally enjoy the Shelby 'clones' only I prefer the term 'replica'. I use the 'clone' term on poorly done imitation's that barely manage to get the stripes proper and leave it at that.
I've been building a Guardsman Blue '65 GT350R model Mark Donohue 'replica' for about 5 years. I received it as a nice original Springtime Yellow non-GT A-code automatic. I've had the car 10 years and have been collecting the original Shelby parts just as long, as it's always been my goal. When it's done, it'll be worth almost twice what it would be if it were left stock.
It'll be done in late 2007 for it's debut at the '08 Silver Springs show. I've used mostly original Shelby parts and repo's only as necessary. My final decision is R-model plexi-glas door and back windows or stay with original glass. It'll probably be plastic as everything else is pretty correct. I've even got the original 'Bed of snakes' alternate headers that actually came on 5R535 as one of my finishing touches.
A local friend has 5R534 and verified their authenticity as his car has the same ones and they're vin stamped. These were the last two R-cars built and came with the optional headers instead of the standard tri-y's.
I've learned a lot and met a bunch of great folks along the way. I'm also pretty good friends with the guys over at Holman-Moody now as a result - they did my cams for both the K-car and my R-car.
My car will never be real but if Mark Donohue was still with us, I'd bet he wouldn't turn down a hot lap at Watkins Glen, VIR or Road Atlanta.....
Preserve the hobby. If you can't afford the real deal then build the next best thing - a 'Replica' !!!
Mark
ps - my '66K has the window sticker, build sheets and owner warranty card........
Anyone going to Silver Springs the first weekend in January??
It's about an hour outside of Orlando, Florida.
I've been in touch with fellow member Gary McGowan and he'll be attending. I also plan to stop and see his new projeKt on my way back to Charlotte.
To enter a car you get free passes to the park there at the facility.
It's sponsored by NPD and usually draws around 1200 Mustangs & Fords.
Possibly a gathering on Saturday for members?
I met with the VMF crowd at Carlisle last year which was pretty cool.
See ya there.......
Mark
Yet another proud K-Papa as he brings home his pride and joy.......
Make sure your lovely new wife gets some of that cheerful attention or the rear fold down will be your fold out bed.......lolol
Congrats on a stunning Kar!!
Mark
I'm not much of a believer in fate but this is rather interesting.
I forwarded scans of my build sheets and window sticker to 66KGT for posting this week. I reconfirmed my build date of 26D which is April 26th, 1966 while forwarding. I also have the original balance receipt and temporary registration dated 4/27/66. My car was delivered, by caravan (per window sticker) from Dearborn to the selling dealer and it's original owner the day after it was built - pretty cool.
Okay, so you say 'so what, ho hum......'
Today I was checking my bio page to reference a post I made and noticed something interesting.......
I joined this site on April 27th, 2006, 40 years to the day of the delivery of my car to it's original owner. I took posession of the car the day before, April 26th 2006 - my build date anniversary, 40 yrs. later to the day. Lastly, neither day was my 40th birthday (too weird) but coincidentally I was 40 yrs. old when I bought the car - call it a late b-day present!!
Call it what you want, I say very interesting..........
Mark
Send 'em my way and I'll post them for you.
k_code_66 [at] yahoo [dot] com
I just e-mailed them to you. Thanks for the offering and enjoy!!
Mark
Not a challenge as I'm sure your correct and makes perfect sense. What about the staggered space FORD export braces? Did they become a performance over the counter item for easier bolt-in?? It seems as though the Ford p/n was a C5 or C6ZZ but not positive.
I've seen several T-5's but never keyed in on the reinforcement plate as I've seen on the Shelby's. There are a couple in my local club so I'll have a closer look.
I always thought it was one of Shelby's tricks.......
Mark
My 66K was ordered new with the 8K Rally-pac. Mine is Black and my interior is Blue. It looks to be correct to the car with proper petina and the tach is inoperable (but clock works and is not quartz). It's an original FORD unit, but no way to confirm if it's orig. to my car - it could have been replaced.
I've seen pics of other cars with blue interior and black Rally-Pacs.
I know all the Hi-Profile '65's were black. The one's that say Mustang on the Tach and Rally-Pac on the center piece were over the counter dealer units. The ones that say FORD on the tach and have no lettering on the center piece were factory installed units.
Any color knowledge on the Low-Profile units that were factory installed vs. dealer installed / over the counter purchased??
hmmmmmm, the debate continues..........
Mark
My take on export braces was the early Shelby's used the even hole spacing and added the reinforcement plate at the cowl attachment point. The Export cars used the staggered hole spacing which bolts directly to the cowl with no modifications. It also explains the abundance of factory FORD export braces around with the staggered holes. Whether a reinforcement plate was used or not I'm unsure.
If the car was a Shelby replica, he probably added both for authenticity. I did the same to my '65 R-model replica and have an original Shelby equal hole spaced brace. I made my own reinforcement plate but they're also available from COBranda as well with the even spacing. I'm not sure of availability in the staggered hole stock configuration.
Anyways, my $.02........
Mark
I had one for my Mark Donohue R-model replica I'm building but sold it to a friend that had an original '65 GT350 car with a tri-power set-up.
My car wasn't done and his was nearing completion so I let him have it for what I had paid.
Now my car is nearing completion and I'd like to have another. I have two orig '66 large letter intakes but no '65's. If you're interested in a trade or outright sale let me know. I don't sell my parts except to friends for dedicated projects and always prefer trades.
This would be dedicated part for my car, not a resale piece.
Thanks,
Mark
Mine is a late April '66 build out of Dearborn.
The Deluxe wheel option box on my build sheets, located in the 2nd row last box on the right, is labeled '7' in the box.
My window sticker reads
DELUXE STEERING WHEEL $31.52
As far as pics go, you have to have a web site or free hosting place to post from. I have neither. I can scan the docs and e-mail them if anyone's interested. Maybe someone else can post them who has these external net places.
I also have some good pics of my newly completed engine bay if anyone's intrested.
Mark Young
It goes in the intake port directly behind the distributor.
The port behind the thermostat housing is for the heater hose inlet elbow that goes to the heater core.
I'm getting ready to post pics of my newly freshened 6F09K engine and bay and can include a detail of that area.
Hope this helps........
Mark
