I'm using the Autolite Platinum AP-45 with no issues. It's been 3-years since the rebuild and about 3k miles. They even survived my defective 'new' yellow top coil dilemma (that I wrote about last year) as well. My original '66 coil is still performimg flawlessly!!
Mark
Good News......
NPD sells these already stamped with the info. you provide them - mainly your build date. You'll pay $4 for a blank one or $7 for one fully stamped (not hand written)and sent right to your address, and shipping is included! I had it in about a week and is a nice touch to my detailed engine bay. I did mine three years ago and it still looks great with no issues or yellowing.
Best of luck......
Mark
Dave,
I've got a fresh HEH-T tranny that would be correct for your Kar.
I could work a trade for your wheels and some boot $$$ if your interested. Shipping would probably be a wash.
Let me know if your interested,
Mark
Sounds like what you have are '67 SS wheels based on the 14x6 rim width dimension ('65/'66's are 14x5-1/2). The array of rivets are correct for original OEM wheels. I think there's also a notch in the center cap opening area for the taller blue '67 centers but the red 65/66 centers covers it up when installed. There may be some reproductions out there that duplicate the rivet pattern but not sure.
As far as price, I paid $300 for my last set earlier this year that were nice driver quality with decent trim rings and '65/'66 centers.
The going rate is $3-$500 dependiing on condition. NOS wheels individually sell for approx. $200-$250 ea. when you can find them, both based on what I've seen at Carlisle and Charlotte.
Hope this helps.......
Mark
Thanks guys for the great responses.
I knew they were KH wheels but wasn'nt sure about solid center vs. cutouts and 15x5-1/2 vs. 15x6.
The wheels I was after were 15x5-1/2 with solid centers and are no longer available, so I'll keep hunting. They were only $250 plus shipping which is a good price but expensive if they're not the right ones.
Good things come to those who wait so I'll be patient.......
Thanks again,
Mark
Hey Folks,
I have a deeper than my knowledge GT350 question for the 65-66 GT350 experts out there. I need to know what are the correct steel wheels that came on the 65-66 GT350's if they didn't have the Cragars, Torque Thrusts, or Magnums. I'm assembling the final parts I need for my next project, a '65 Carry-over car, and I plan to use the plain steel wheels as shown on the car in this link:
http://mikesclassiccars.net/1966-gt350-238.php
I've located a set of Kelsey-Hayes 15x5-1/2 steel wheels that came stock on 65-67 Galaxie's and T-Birds with disc brakes. The wheels are all dated either 65 or 66.
I believe they're correct but not positive. Can anyone confirm for me that these are what I need??
Thanks,
Mark
I just experienced this dilemma. I wanted a good driving radial replacement for my stock dual red line silvertown's that I use for shows. I was given a new set of Red Line radials size 225-70/14 - bonus. I purchased a nice set of '67 Styled Steel wheels but determined the 5-1/2" width would be a little narrow for the 225 tire size. Sold those and decided to use a set of 14x7 stock steel wheels from a '68-1/2 SCJ car I had in storage. They have an honest 4" back spacing which is ideal for '65-'66 Mustangs. The Tires ended up being too tall at 26.5" as they rubbed in cornering and bumps. Sold the red lines and settled on a 225-60/14 RWL that fit nicely, handle well and didn't alter my speedo with a 24.7" height. It gives my Nightmist K-GT fastback a whole new agressive look with the freshly painted plain black wheels, chrome lugs, and low profile RWL tires.
I plan to use 225-60/15's on 15x7 Torque thrusts for my R-model when it's completed. It has rolled fenders and lowered suspension - fyi.
Mark
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
The deluxe wheel was part of the interior decor group in 65-66 and also a separate stand-alone option for standard interior cars. The wheel was not part of the K code or GT options.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
My '66 K-GT 2+2 has the std. interior and the optional Deluxe Steering Wheel. I have my original Window Sticker and both build sheets and it confirms this. It was a $31.52 option.......
Mark
I'm looking for a C40F-AL early HiPo carb for an Oct. '64 built K-coupe. It needs to be complete and restorable. Restored and ready to go is fine too. It's for a collector friend of my Dad's in Augusta, GA.
Any help would be appreciated. Post, PM me or e-mail direct to:
Thanks in advance,
Mark
Here's mine......
'66 K-GT fastback - Nightmist Blue/Std. Blue interior - unrestored.
Original engine, original interior, Original Window Sticker, Dealer Warranty Card (Protecto-Plate), original purchase receipt, both Build Sheets, (2) log books documenting every fuel fill-up, tune-up, oil change, etc. with date, mileage, gallons, and cost from 300 miles to 124k.
'65 A-Non GT fastback - Guardsman Blue w/White Lemans stripes. A very authentic Mark Donohue GT-350 R-Model Replica - in process.
'95 SVT Cobra Coupe - PP1 Ford Pre-Production factory Proto-type with the 4.6-4V Cammer engine, T-45 transmission, hyd. assist master cyl., etc. Former SVT show car for Pre-'96 test and Show circuit. Also a former SCCA national Champion as campaigned by John Ames. Was used as a test car for Torsen on the T2-R development and Tokico on the Illumina Adj. Struts for the SN-95 platform. Personalized tag says '95cammer'.
'02 VW Passat wagon - Silver/grey - my daily driver & Soccer Bus.
'98 Eddie Bauer Expedition 4x4 - Wife's daily driver & grocery getter.
'03 Mustang Coupe w/Pony pkg. - True Blue/Saddle V6 5spd. - oldest daughter's daily driver. Personalized tag says 'PONYCHIK'.
My Dad's.....Only 15 mins. away!!
'34 Ford Roadster vintage 50's streetrod - small block chevy
'63 Corvette Convertible - Black/Saddle 327/340hp 4spd. NCRS Top Fl.
'64 Comet Caliente Lightweight a/FX drag car - White/Red
'64 Fairlane Thunder-Bolt early style replica - Maroon/Gold 427 4spd.
'65 Shelby GT-350 R-model replica vintage race car.
'65 A-code fastback - soon to be an authentic '66 Carry-over GT-350.
'91 Corvette Convertible - Quasar Blue/Saddle 6-spd. bought new.
'04 Corvette Convertible - Anniv. Blue/saddle auto.
'04 Lincoln LS V8 Sport - Black/gray bought new Mom's daily.
'04 Ranger ext.cab - Blue/grey v-6 automatic - Dad's daily.
Outta room............
Hello K-folks,
An interesting story and unexpected solution to a rough running HiPo, that may help in future diagnostic issues.
History:
Orig. '66 K-engine that I rebuilt myself with around 2k miles. I rebuilt the Orig. Carb . Used my Spare '65 HiPo fuel pump that was used but worked fine. Orig. dist. worked fine so no updates required. Installed all new wiring, etc.
Problem:
Engine started running rough at idle and normal highway cruising, like a miss from a vacuum leak or bad gas. If I Stepped on the gas the problem would go away. I put in a fresh tank of HiTest. Problem started to progressively get worse. The last time I drove it I couldn't go over 30mph........
Easy Repair attempts:
1. Pulled all spark plugs - no issues, nice and clean.
2. Checked timing - right on.
3. Adjusted carb jets - okay.
4. Checked points -fine. Still filed and re-gapped.
5. Cleaned the condenser contacts assuming it was still good.
6. Removed fuel bowl and filter was spotless.(ordered an NOS in case)
7. @&*(%$#$%&%$$#^% getting frustrated.....
More involved repair attempts:
The next steps were to replace the fuel pump with a known functioning pump (prior to mortgaging my house to find a correct '66 unit) and then send my coveted original C6ZF-C off to get it professionally rebuilt/restored. Next would be to adjust the lifters and do a compression check. But, first things first.......
Solution:
Before removing my fuel pump, I decided to make one last call to an old racer friend, Nick Dotson, who actually purchased an early '65 hi-po coupe new from Young Ford in Charlotte, NC.
I described the symptoms and began to tell him what I'd done to date to resolve them and he interrupted me with "It's your Coil...". I hesitated and said it was new when I rebuilt the motor and continued to go over my diagnosis trials. He interrupted again and said again "It's your Coil..." only more emphatically. I said again, I replaced it with one of the high $$$ repro Yellow Tops - it can't be bad. He proceded to tell me an engine story that after several carb rebuilds, (2) fuel pumps, (3) sets of plugs & wires, timing chain, cam and lifters, and an eventual engine swap, it was the coil all along. There was no arguing after that.
Fortunately I saved all my original parts and in the box was my original Yellow Top dated B6 (Feb. 1966). I wiped off the grunge, and proceeded to swap out the nice new $$$ replacement.
Many kudos to Nick Dotson as he was absolutely right!! My Kar fired right up and the harmonious sounds of 16 solid lifters in unison never sounded better.
I pulled the old coil back out and gave it a good cleaning and a fresh coat of Krylon Semi-Flat. While it was drying, I gave Nick a call back, praised him and then thanked him for the invaluable advice.
If this experience helps even one K-member in the future, then it was well worth burning a lunch hour writing this post.
Never overlook the simple things and don't be afraid to ask your friends for a second look or a bit of friendly technical advice.
Thanks for your time......
Mark
It's in the registry and last noted in NC.......
Mark
Greg,
I've been wrestling with similar issues. I built my motor with lower compression and a Holman-Moody race cam with the intent of adding a vintage Paxton. I changed my mind due to cost for a vintage blower set-up and went stock 715 LeMans and Cobra intake.
Like anyone else, I agree you can't beat the look of a set of Webers, period!! Cost and driveability have always been the pitfalls. However, all that has recently changed. Weber introduced a new line of carbs for the street driver in mind. They recommend the 44-IDF's for under 400 (real) hp or the 48-IDA's for over 400 hp. Unless you're realistically pushing 500+ hp I'd consider the 44's hands down. They're good from idle to about 6500 rpm's - perfect for street use.
Here's the link:
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/v8-105.htm
I'm getting ready to sell of all my carb related parts to fund the 44-IDF's. Another issue is hood clearance. The 44's are shorter and will fit under the stock Shelby hoods with no issues. They offer a short set of '48's but I don't think they're available yet.
Keep us posted on your progress and what you're final decision is.
Regards,
Mark
Just to let everyone know, 5F07K313103 complete engine is currently on eBay. The car is listed in the registry and last noted in Iowa.
It would be nice to contact the owner and inform them of the find.....
Regards,
Mark
I used Roller Tipped Rockers on mine with no issues 3 yrs. later. I'm also running Holman-Moody solid cam & lifters.
I've had nothing but clearance issues in the past with full roller rockers, even with spacers and stock valve covers. I'm not much for the aftermarket look.........
Yes, you can remove the baffles (I did) but that poses it's own issue. You'll start sucking oil (vortex/tornado syndrome) thru the PCV valve and never know it until it's too late. That happened on one of my other 289's.
Mark
If FOURSPEED wasn't able to help, I'm in Charlotte, NC which is about an hour away form Lexington.
Mark
Judging by the s/n, it's too early to be a factory GT car. I've got a '65 A-code 5F09A317XXX and it's a Nov.'64 car. I realize it's a Metuchen built, but my guess is it's an Aug-Sept. '64 early fastback. Possibly too early for the Deluxe interior as well, not sure.
Still incredibly nice and my favorite color combo....just my $.02
Mark
Bob,
I've got my std. bore pistons from my stock rebuild that are still good. One might be damaged possibly, I'd have to check. I bored mine .020" over on the refresh. I saved all the parts to pass on to the next owner when I decide to sell.
If you're interested, let me know........
Mark
Gary,
I've got a rebuilt HEH-T with no VIN I'd consider working out some sort of trade for your HEH-BX. I'd like to have a correct spare for my '66. It's not for sale, only for trade. Give it some thought and let me know. I'm in Charlotte, NC.
Regards,
Mark
I'll be there. Hope to see ya then........
Mark
