Posts by 65shelby_old

I need some clarification on the correct push-on Chrome Oil Filler Cap for my April '66 Dearborn kar.

It came (as i purchased it) with a chrome cap that had a large tapered radius at the top. There's a nickle size recess centered on the top with a red sticker. This was on a set of original '66 shelby OTC valve covers added to my kar early in it's life.

The replacement cap I bought for the rebuild is squared off at the top with maybe an 1/8" radius. No recess either but has a small FORD Oval stamped on center. The internal gripper fingers are not spring steel and are basically worthless. It's a FORD authorized re-pop.

The squared off version is all that I've really ever seen on these Kars but it's also the only ones reproduced that I know of.

I ran across an NOS tapered radius cap for a reasonable price but if it's not correct then I'll pass.

Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

Mark

I'm offended.........lol

Looks like I stand to be corrected.......

Thanks Bo!!

Mark

Can anyone shed some light on a question that was presented to me?

I was under the impression that CS replaced the stock HiPO cams with the hotter Lemans cams in all '65-'66 GT350's. Presuming the Lemans cams had a little more lift and more of an idle lope.

One of my mustang buddies said that all the GT350's used the stock HiPo cam from FORD, and sent me the link to this MM article as proof.

This article been discussed here before for different reasons I believe:

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/m…lock/index.html

Anyways, some of you Shelby guru's more versed than me please chime in to help me set the record straight.

Thanks!

Mark

Saw this '67 GTA K-Code Coupe on Craigs List if anyone has an interest. Seems to be fairly priced if condition is as good as it looks and correct components are in place. According to the ad posting it's in Ohio......

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/1628373300.html

Mark

Now on eBay.............BIN $1200

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/196…=item230594c834

SOLD........

I've got a '66 C6ZF-C HiPo carb for sale - first $1250 plus shipping.

Link to pics:

http://tinypic.com/a/1m8b5/2

After a long soak and a good thorough cleaning, I installed a fresh rebuild kit over the weekend. Floats are set and ready for final tuning on your own engine. Complete and ready to go including the original tag.....pics speak for themselves! It's actually a little nicer than the original on my '66 fastback.

If no interest here, then it's headed for eBay this weekend.

Look at what this one brought......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Thanks for looking,

Mark

980-253-9292

Edited by - 65shelby on 03/29/2010 14:44:33

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Mark,

What code on the build sheet would indicate the deluxe steering wheel?

Mike

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Mike,

It's the last box on the RH side of the center row on the build sheet. The box is labeled 'OPTION SEAT / DELUXE STG WHL'. The code is '7' in the box.

Hope this helps......

Mark

Now on eBay.......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HEH…=item23051bb141

Mark

SOLD..........

HEH-T Top Loader for sale......first $1500.00 plus shipping.

Pics:

http://tinypic.com/m/8vym4k/2

I have a mint VIN stamped HEH-T Top Loader for sale. The VIN is not in the registry. As you can see in the pics, the VIN is stamped on the tail shaft housing with the backwards 'K' from Metuchen.

L23 (Nov. 23rd, 1964) C5 Main Case and J25 (Sept. 25th, 1964) C4 Tail Shaft Housing.

Came from a low mileage k-coupe wreck years ago here in NC.

I believe I opened it for the first time as it still has the original gasket set installed and was still full of fluid. The inside is perfect with zero wear, rust or any other imperfections. It shifts into all gears easily by hand with shift tabs in place. No bearing play on either end is detected. Input shaft rotates effortlessly. Basically no wear on the T/O bearing surface either.

I cleaned it up with Evaporust and a wire cup brush - never blasted. It's now lightly oiled with WD-40 to prevent rusting. Final detailing can be done by the new owner.

This is about as good as it gets and if no interest here then it's going to ebay this weekend.

If a restored 4201S HiPo fuel Pump is currently bringing almost $1500, and a complete engine is $5k, then this should be well worth it and also ring a bell!!

Only selling to fund a complete rebuild/restore of the rearend in my '66 K-GT F/B.

Mark

980-253-9292

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Edited by - 65shelby on 03/25/2010 12:29:00

My first thought was $52k......

Mark

Question on what determined the use of the Oil Breather with the vacuum line vs. the oil breather without on a 26D 6F09K????

I know that the Air Cleaner Base had the nipple as well for the vacuum hose.

My engine/engine bay was all original except for original OTC '66 Cobra Intake and Valve Covers that were installed early on, if not when it was new. My air breather looked original (no date codes though) as did the plain push-on Oil Breather Cap with original decal. The Oil Breather, however, has a radius at the top as opposed to being squared off like others I've seen. Both could have been changed over the years I suppose. I've also yet to find an NOS replacement in either radiused or squared version.

The FORD stamped Oil Breather repop's are junk IMO as the internal grip fingers are soft metal,not spring steel as original, and don't grip well at all. Anyone have an extra NOS kicking around?

I've seen numerous NOS Oil Breather Caps with the vacuum port but wasn't sure if it applied to San Jose Kars or possibly '67 Kars or was a running change associated with a changeover date.

I'd consider installing an Oil & Air vacuum breather set-up with an NOS Oil Breather if it was possibly correct.

Any input would be appreciated - Thanks!!

I'd also be interested in an NOS Oil Breather,either style, if anyone has an extra......

Mark

Edited by - SixT5HiPo on 01/20/2010 01:44:17

My Kar is a D26 '66 Dearborn FB with the Nightmist Blue / Std. Blue interior and Black Rally-Pac. I have my orig. window sticker as well, so the RP is legit. I also have a local acquaintance with a Blue/Blue Std. int. '66 K-coupe (mate to mine) and he's the original owner!! It's also got a Black Rally-Pac. In my humble opinion, like those mentioned above, the Deluxe Interior cars got the color keyed RP's, while the std. interior cars got the Black RP's to match the Instrument Bezel and the Glove Box door.

Mark

One of my Mustangs flagged enough interest to actually become a feature article in Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords Dec. '09 issue - MMFF.

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/features/mmfp_…tang/index.html

My '66 K-GT fastback still hasn't gained enough traction but I'm working on it. However, my '95 Cobra proto-type caught the attention of MMFF editor Pete Epple while I was at VIR in June for a Track Event and show.

I refer to my '95 Cobra as a 'Modern K' with a twist, since it was the best FORD had to offer. Being a factory engineering proto-type on multiple platforms even adds to the uniqueness.

Mark

I have a spare C6ZF-C Hi-Po Autolite 4100 carb available if anyone is interested. It's complete including the tag with date code B 6BD.

Correct for all '66 Manual Transmission HiPo Mustangs.

The Bad:

One of the brass slosh tubes is broken off.

The Primary & Secondary throttle plates are seized along with the mixture screws.

The Good:

The choke assembly is complete and functional (not seized).

The case is very nice with original die cast finish - never sand blasted!!

Over all, carb is very nice and very restorable.

Even still has it's original ID Tag!!

Price is $700 plus shipping.

I've got another 1.12 4100 carb available for parts off of a '65 Galaxie that's complete (minus choke flap & shaft) and is not seized. Throttle plates look new! Price is $50 plus shipping pkg. deal only.

I can forward pics if interested.

Serious only, no picture collectors.

Thanks,

Mark

Just saw this on eBay and noted Door Data Plate VIN.

Item #120483933904

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/196…=item1c0d66eed0

It's in the registry and last noted in Florida.

Registry should be updated......

Mark

I didn't mean to hi-jack the topic.......but, it's not very often that 'Mustang Proto-type' anything comes to light - Thanks!!

I'm know where's near wealthy, and don't have any Corvettes (but my Father has several and I grew up with them), and most importantly, my stable gets started and driven regularly year round - you gotta love the south!!

My Cobra has lived a hard life from day 1. It was a test car X2, press demo car, and SVT circuit show car. Then, when it escaped into public hands, it became an SCCA E-Street prepared track car and won the National Championionship in Topeka Kansas in 1999 while piloted by John Ames, it's first owner. It was also a sponsored test car for Tokico and Torsen during it's race venue.

Here's a link to the car in race trim:

http://www.torsen.com/products/T-2R.htm

John first titled it with almost 30k miles. It now has 88k and still going strong. It sees 1 or 2 track events per year and some cruise-in's if I decide the '66K 2+2 needs a break, which isn't that often!!

I've got a couple folks from the old SVT regime still trying to dig up add'l info. from the Ford archives - one being John Clor, author of the 'Mustang Dynasty'. He was instrumental in proving the authenticity of a 10+ year paper trail, that went cold when SVT disbanded and most documentation was destroyed.

Life would be so boring without Kool Kars......

Mark

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If anyone has an original heater hose strap they can measure it would be appreciated - length and width.

Thanks.

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A guy has some believed NOS straps including screw posted on eBay for about $40....

Item #160367186644 expires 10/11/09

My car still has it's original and it looks correct.

Mark

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Here is a little update:The car in this article was one that was to have been in the Doc:

http://www.bigalslist.com/featuredcars/feat0908/feat0908.htm

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Proto-types are still out there......

I've got a '95 SVT Cobra coupe PP1 pre-production proto-type that has a complete SVT factory installed '96 4-Cam modular motor drive line. This includes T-45 transmission, brakes, suspension tweaks, etc.

Some of the changes are definitely crude including hand sawing out the shifter opening in the tunnel for the larger T-45 assembly. Brake lines, Master cylinder,fuel lines, cooling, wiring, main computer, plus many others are all different. It was also believed to be a '95 Cobra R proto-type as well, that they re-used for the install of the '96 Modular drive train. It wasn't a 'body-in-white' as it does have a VIN which also makes it very unusual.

It's not the 1st Mustang ever but believed to be the earliest Aluminum Cammer Mod-Motor car in existence which is the baseline for all SVT 4.6 & 5.4 cars to date. I guess you could call it a Modern K-car....??

Look for a feature article in Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords (old Mustang & Fords) December issue due out in late October......

Mark

My '65 has been on it's side on a chassis mounted tilter for over a year with this same dilemma. My rails are perfect structurally and still have the complete galvanized finish - just beat up from years of jacking. I was set up to use a stud welder, slide hammer and torch to pull them but wasn't sure of the end result. I'd have to grind off the galvanized coating as the studs I don't believe would adhere to well.

I think I'm going to drop it back down on all 4's and use a different approach. I'm pretty good with a hammer and dolly so try this approach on for size and let me know what you think.

I'm going to use a thin cut-off disc on my angle grinder and remove the floor section over the inside of the frame rails. It should be approx. a 3" x 14" cut on each footwell floor board. I'll probably stop short of the toe board lap joint. Remove the pieces and expose the inner side of the dented frame rails. You should be able to lay on your side by the rocker and reach both inner and outer rail surfaces with a hammer and dolly.

Upon completion, spray the inside of the rail and underside of the removed floor sections with a weld-thru primer. Tack back in place and then proceed to butt-weld complete and grind smooth.

Since there's an interest in this, I may seize the opportunity and do a how-to article with pics.

This may very well be the kick-in-the-pants incentive I need to complete that stage of my restoration.

Stay tuned.........

Mark