Posts by GT Joe_old

Thanks to all with your input. It is greatly appreciated. The one question I still have is the brackets behind the rear valance that hold the bumper guard to the valance... is the correct finish natural metal with phosphate fasteners? Thank you again, Joe.

I have three misc. questions:

1) Does anyone have a source for the correct dark blue meatllic paint used on 65-66 Ford PS pumps All the vendors carry the same paint number and it is the lighter blue.

2) What is the correct finish for the rear bumper guard brackets on 65-67 San Jose Kars?

3) What is the correct finish for the fuel line "cover" that is bolted to the underside of the floorpan an a 67 San Jose Kar.

Thank you in advance for you help. Joe.

I am helping a friend restore his 1967 GT350. We are in need of a mint original firewall pad, with no rips or tears on the textured surface. Thank you, Joe.

Click on photo albums, then 1966 Shelby.

Looks like the car is in Colorado right now...check out http://www.classicmustangs.com. Vehicle is very rough and already undergoing MAJOR surgery. Click on 1966 Shelby.

Is it possible that originally most of the preproduction testing was done by using motors fitted to a dyno? That way the testing could be done at various RPM's in a controlled environment, and final testing done on the vehicle during road tests.

Add me to the list; as well as about fifteen others in the Denver area that I know of. Maybe we need to have a mass campaign?

The buyer of that Ebay item is in Sheridan, CO; a suburb of Denver. If I hear of "anything" going on with these numbers I will post it.

Joe.

If your car is a "carryover car", for 1966 the 1965 GT harness is the correct piece for your car. It is used in conjunction with the inductive ammetere gauge. Only the first 252 GT350's in 1966 used this harness. Likewise the engine feed harness and headlight harness are unique for these early cars as well. Replacing the wiring with the 1966 stock wiring would decrease the value somewhat, if the car originally came with the GT wiring harness.

There is no way in Hell I would publicly post both the Ford VIN and Shelby VIN in any forum.

I have to add my two cents. The are all 66 GT350' that I have worked on or owned and K # correlation to the Shelby VIN. 6S1143 and 6S1156 are both blue Hertz cars and are cosecutive K#'s. 6S1370 and 6S1382 are 8962 Ford VIN apart. 6S1765 and 6S1766 are 244 Ford VIN apart.

6S1798 is 332 Ford VIN lower that 1766. I have access to about four more cars and will update when possible. I would imagine that since the non black Hertz cars were bought from Ford in groups of fifty per color that those cars would match up closer to the Ford VIN and Shelby VIN. I agree that the odds of consecutive Ford VIN and cosecutive Shelby VIN and cars is pretty remote.

Also, Mustangs Plus and other vendors should have these. I am familiar with the urethane spacers. Joe.

Currently in sixth place. I had to vote for the couple with the Sapphire Blue K.

Amen Dan... I did not follow much of this thread either.

The holes you describe are used when the heater delete option was ordered. Those holes are used with the blockoff plate that seals the firewall. The plate was mounted from inside the car.

For what it is worth; based on 3 1966 GT-350's and 2 K-GT's, with a 3.50 ratio with either four speed or auto trans you should be pulling 3000 rpm's.

William, I have an NOS kilometer speedo assy. I can get you the part number tomorrow if you are interested. It is correct for 1965 GT or deluxe interior and all 1966 cars. Joe.

Thank you for the help. I have rods with phosphate and the spring on the box is phosphate. I was also going to do the levers on the trans in zinc. Thanks, Joe.

I just wanted to get a consensus for the proper finish on Ford shifter boxes. I think the correct finish is Zinc. I originally thought cadmium, but the old finish was hard to blast off and cad would have been easy. Thanks, Joe.

You might try checking your clutch adjustment. If the adjustment is a little off you will grind your way into reverse. Also check the lower clutch rod at the fork at bellhousing and make sure the fork is not fatigued. Joe.