Thats a nice thought but as I say 1 new arm and 1 older.arms are bought new are they one colour and is it up to the owner / fitter to paint them and someone got these back to front ?.
Depends where and when they were purchased but today many of the reproductions are supplied with the complete arm black requiring the shop/owner to strip and redo if they want to get it closer to looking like an original
Mark the car in the pictures you posted appear to be the solid centers rather than the ones with the reliefs (for lack of a better term) cut into the centers as we typically see used for 65 Shelbys
The solid centers can be found on T-Birds up to at least 67 (at least where I've found them)
Not sure if the solid centers can be modified to look like the others Would think so but don't know of anyone - no one has talked yet 
- that has done it yet
The heel pad just came off of the carpet, so I just threw it on there for the photo.
Thanks Brant - did miss the fact that the heel pad was simply thrown on top. 
Looks like it may be one of the "in between" ones Will check a few pictures to find a couple of other examples
There are 2 K's on the lower radiator support. 1A on drivers side of radiator support. Have not found anything yet on wheel side of battery box. Also found red and yellow paint marks on both coil springs.
Could the "yellow" on the springs be a white that has changed over the years? Just a guess. Might want to cut or sand though a drip and wet it to see. If so that would line up with the extra high/low mark that has been discussed before.
On the front crossmember would have expected you to have also found a "D". There or elsewhere, but maybe its gone after all these years
Brant/ club 33 Notice that the heel pad is reversed. Just asking, but how did you determine its the original carpet?
Think this might be a replacement. Have a couple of San Jose cars were the serged edged carpet was remade with heel and toe pads similar to yours - only the heel pad was orientated the other way around like the later carpet
Caspian 65,checked radiator support for rotation number and found 1A. Is that first unit first shift? Will post more pics..
Would not think that was the meaning - based on others
Found anything on the cross member below the radiator support or battery box (wheel side) yet?
Why don't (Richard) sell his stuff since he has no desire to do them again?Also look at the pic above as all the talk about color being off white is NOT true.The canister is white/white in color with the red lettering!
His stuff- his choice. No telling what the future will bring.
As for the color IMHO you can't can't trust tone/tints on the internet too many different settings in digital cameras and monitor settings. I see differences between the real part and the pictures I have all the time - one of the reasons I cut sections from floor panels now since I can't rely on the pictures I take matching the real thing. JMHO of course
Jeff - I tried to email Richard when you gave me his info last time and hit a spam filter that was part of his email provider's system that was impossible to get past..............
Yes he has no time to do any and would guess that will remain the status for a long time. At this time someone needs to redo the stamp or set up a screen to do them.
Sorry for the dead end.
I ask again WHY is this canister reproduced in RED with WHITE lettering?? I know of no Ford product that used it in this reversed color combo, is it to get around a trademark or copyright thing??
I was told by a friend that redid these and he explained the reverse ones have been found on 6 cylinders
I used to deal with this person a very long time ago (Stacie and Richard??) Do you still have their contact information? I would really like to find out if they would still be interested in doing the coils and the fuel pump canisters.
Brant - forwarded your email to Richard - should hear from him soon
I'm also currently in the process of having the red FoMoCo logo reproduced .........................
The original canisters were first plated to help prevent rust inside the canister from condensation, & then the outside was painted
Just a thought - how about a thin white (once correct color is determined) powder coat for the outside and inside?
Just a though
Have an old friend that use to reproduce (re-stamp) these. I'm sure he still has the art work/stamp and could do some. He use to do the voltage regulators and coils too
Believe the TSB mentions the change over was done in May 65 (mentioned in a TSB in Nov 65)
Since we can't go simply IMHO by the block casting date I suggest you check the assembly date of the block (since we don't have an engine tag) and if the date is in late May - early June I would expect a cast iron pump
[Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/289Assembydate.jpg]
Pic of my original 66 Metuchen Koupe air cleaner base, looks gold to me. Built April 4, 1966
How sure are you that this is the original base? Got to ask since it's allot older than the car. Jan 65 verses April 66 = 15 months sure does not look like the typical date spread IMHO
Quote from CharlesTurnerJeff, this is the 125001 San Jose car.
10-4 for some reason I though it was in a "more finished" condition.
Just me
When and where was the car built?
The writing on the radiator support is unusual for a San Jose car though the frame marking are typical for that factory as Charles mentioned.
Check the wheel side of the battery box and the front crossmember
Quote from QmanHere are some questions about painting. The car is a 67 built at the Dearborn plant.
Questions:
1. Are door hinge bolts painted body color?
All door hinge bolts were painted body color (doors were installed at paint time)
Quote from Qman2. Are trunk lid bolts painted body color?
All trunk lid hinge bolts were painted body color (doors were installed at paint time)
Extra credit - all upper rear valance screws were painted body color on your particular car (because of where it was assembled) Though the valance was likely not pulled into the body at the bottom edge during painting.
3. Are the fender bolts cadium plated?
No - (From MCA rules)
Inner Fender Bolts: Original color and style with disc washers. 67- phosphate and oil finish.
I have a Hi-po motor I am deciding whether to sell whole or part out. The engine was running well before being removed last weekend. The engine is left sealed with the exception of the carburetor.
Brad depending on what you want for the engine I might be a cash buyer. Live very close so shipping would not have to be involved (Stockton area) But you need to figure out a price. You might be able to get a few dollars more if you part it out but there will be parts that will be harder to move and you will need to ship stuff out to different locations - just a thought
IF you would like - send a asking price to my email or PM
I’m not sure about the stamping on the block. It looks incomplete (not a full 8 characters+) and not straight (some stamps are much higher or lower). Once I relocate the engine, I’ll post pictures and ask for more opinions. But in the meantime, does anyone have any comments on interpreting the stamping?
8 Characters? Should be the full VIN rather than a shortened version used on 68-up engines.
Did you find the casting date on the block?
Or, does anyone have a picture of how the VIN is stamped on the block itself?
Here is an example of one that was sent in (or I found on the web)
[Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/KcodeVINblock.jpg]
Thanks for the link. SAAC has a great web site. After reading all the great stories, I've decided to join SAAC again! I was a member from 1982 to about 2001. I still have my GT 350 and the HiPo is running strong. Monty
Monty - that's great, they can use the money with the law suits and such
Not sure if the ezine was meant to be free for access - since that is one of the major expenses your membership pays for. Oh well
Thanks,
So what colors did a San Jose HiPo fastback with
an aluminum T10(Shelby bound) with a production
date around May 7, 1965 have?
/Bo
Though I've looked at my share of original spring built 65 Shelbys I've not found any that had driveline markings that were clear enough to use. And I don't trust the restored ones enough to share those.
This has been the problem with the early cars since information is few and far between.
On the non- k code Mustangs in the first couple of years we see some examples where the codes appear to change every six month or so (still few good original examples) so any conclusion IMHO is difficult right now
Sorry wish I had a better answer - would have allot of happy owners if I did
Quote from 66gtkWow, I just finished reading it...lots of info.
So this neither has a Ford or Shelby VIN - how can it be a Shelby, let alone the first one? How do they list this in the Shelby registry?
Wasn't in the last one that I remember/see.
With all the prototypes turning up I'm unsure how they will be listed (with the "normal" Shelbys or by themselves)
