Allot of guys take the decal and make a stamp from it. IMHO if you want to be correct DON"T DO IT. as the fonts and design are slightly off. If you look at the ebay stamp notice how wide the T's are as well as a couple of other details when compared to an original stamping. Same thing goes for the voltage regulator stamps.
Of course this is just what I noticed - your eyes might suggest something else 
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Hard change over dates were never a Ford speciality - they used stuff up before moving on.....more cost effective that way.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
IMHO it really depends on the specific part(s) Plenty of workers tell stories of dumping parts (you could always use them in the service replacement line) or even scrapping them.
As we all remember - placing an exact date on when these cars were really built is impossible so the changeover date could be a hard and correct one. Its the date that the car's were built (finished before the door tag date) that could be off by enough to make up for it.
The real answer seems to be one we will never be able to confirm for sure
A similar package (15" wheels/nylon Sport tires and suspension package) was also available during 67 production. Like the one discussed here it was unpopular and few cars were ordered with it
You could always cut and repost it here Sorry don't travel there any longer
Sure you will get some help either way
Edited by - J_Speegle on 01/30/2010 23:26:55
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
.........Just one more question... is orange the correct color?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
Sorry but too many years and models in my head - what amperage is the alternator? That will give us the color
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
It would appear that the production lines were set up to install the 4 speed, as the default trans, and the hipo automatic was a " special order " option and was not stamped when the engine was stamped. anyone agree or disagree?<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
Never heard a worker refer to any parts as the "default" part nor were the lines set up to install one type of trans more than another (allot more cars that year likely had automatics installed IMHO) so would have to disagree.
At that point in time (1966) the VIN stamping was to reduce thief and believe they didn't think that too many of these cars were going to be stolen and striped of their automatic trans. If you notice the practice that year was to stamp only high performance engines and 4 speed transmissions
Might consider using a thinned paint in place of ink.
I do allot of stamps using rattle cans - anyone that has seen me stamp cars at national shows can attest to that Using a magazine page- spray, daub the stamp, then apply. I do a number of tests on the opposite page to get an idea of when the paint has dried enough to get the effect I want but for reproducing ink I would want to do it quickly I think as the ink stamp is often thin and transparent in sections. Also don't force the stamp onto the surface as it will push the ink or paint to the edge and off the face too much
Just a thought - give it a try on something as a practice. All it will cost is $3 for the rattle can
If it helps the Federal Auto thief training books of the period does not list that application as receiving VINs. California handbooks of the same period agree
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
............ i imagine a Radiator of that vintage going too be real tough to find.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
Consider that your competing (looking for such a radiator) with all the 65 Shelby owners that are looking for one also
Don't have to be expensive - you just have to be lucky
Found a 5 65 manual one at a yard during my last visit, so they are out there. Before everyone sends me an email wanting to buy it - no I didn't purchase it (though the owner would have been happy with $50 for it likely) Instead I told the owner an idea of what it was worth and directed him towards a way to sell it - I'm sure its gone and I made two people, likely, very happy
Edited by - J_Speegle on 01/29/2010 22:39:59
Haven't seen one on a 66-67 C4 - only 4 speeds or on 68-up automatic cars
IS this the second or third time this one has come up for sale?
Know its been discussed before
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
...........The question we want to know, Whats the value when prof. Restored ?
There are supposedly only 4 in existance.
Your thoughts
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
Trying to predict how much it would be worth is a difficult one. Never been good at predicting how much others will be willing to pay especially at a future date.
As we all likely realize oddity or rarity does not always equal dollars but when coupled with the K code (make sure its a GT - seen plenty converted over their lifetimes) you have a winner I would guess. I think the original color and (if it can be) all original body panels will have more impact on the selling price than the T5 status.
Another thought (since your asking) allot will depend on what your referring to as a Professional restoration. There is a WIDE range IMHO of places that could be called professional restoration shops. If you want the top them IMHO your going to need a name to go with the restoration as well as a proven track record (national show awards) after the car is done. This seems to be where the big money is going in all makes and models of cars as suggested in the BJ results this year.
Given all of this to consider it is still easy IMHO to sink more into one of these cars than you will get out of it. So start with a well educated plan and a predetermined goal
Just some things to consider - hope it helps
21.04 - made a number of good points IMHO. Yes the projected build date on the door tag could be off by as much as three weeks in some cases in either direction. Also agree that we might want to compare the dates found on engine components to the engine assembly date, since the parts on an engine would not have been dated after that date (providing some lead time) instead of the cars build date.
Looking at my collection (limited as it is) the spread between the casting date and the assembly date on blocks seems to have been typically a week to three-four weeks during the 65-66 period.
Guess I'll have to ask - what year are you working on?? And for the heck of it where was it built?
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Jeff - I don't think I understand the question, but are you talking about the "other side"?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
Sorry could not find the words to describe the area - so here is a picture. Approx Jan 65 San Jose car
On this car and others (not all) the small "wings" were blacked out at the factory. Those are not shadows
[Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/65%20Mustangs/Jan65SJfastbackwingblkout.jpg]
Edited by - J_Speegle on 01/12/2010 20:41:16
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Same info as Jeff posted, but different view. This is my 9/65 San Jose car;
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
Better view
BTW did yours have the "wings" (the two pieces of the inner vent bent outward) in that area blacked out?
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Jeff, My Kar is July 1965 Dearborn built, I hope to have a couple of pictures up today so everyone can see what I've got now.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
Sounds great - look forward to more pictures
Here are a few for you to compare - IMHO more typical but like allot of details workers could apply a little or allot.
IMHO stuff looks like the same or similar stuff they used to seal the gas tank in place. Same tacky dark gray/black sort of thing
First Mike's very nice original car - same period of production as yours
[Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/65%20Mustangs/Fendersealant5F07C780692PSfenderlip.jpg]
A few from a little earlier than yours but same plant to give an idea of where they meant to place it. (arrows - white/light gray remnants)
[Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/65%20Mustangs/Fenderseal5F07F218129.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/65%20Mustangs/fendersealant5F07F218129Dsrearewngc.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/65%20Mustangs/Fendersealant65Dearborn.jpg]
6hypo5conv - what plant and year.
Stuff I see on cars from San Jose was a very dark gray to black - though it oxidizes over the year and turns white like the sound deadener
Here is a shot from a 66 San Jose fastback-
You should be able to make out the tape (I use the Shurtape for this and other texture tape needs on Mustangs) under the strip chalking applied around where the extractor plate was attached
Hope this helps
[Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/66%20Mustang/6R09C223650DSintpaintdetail.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/66%20Mustang/6R09C223650InterQurtrventdetail.jpg]
