Posts by J_Speegle_old

  • T5 Mustang

    Quote from RalphJr

    Shelby did pick up the Export Brace from Ford, but that is about it - the A-arm mods, Monte Carlo bar, over ride traction bar, Bill Stroppe 1" front sway bar, and axle limit cables were all cooked up by Shelby's development team on 2 COUPE development mule cars provided by Ford. .....


    Believe you will find that the "Monte Carlo" car was borrowed from the 64 Falcons that were raced in Europe.... ie the reason for the name ;)

  • Frame Rail Markings

    Numbers seen on the front frame rails of San Jose 65-66 Mustangs indicate the hook where the front fenders for that car could be located. Sequence run (and repeat themselves) run normally in a 5-6 digit sequence (often one or more numbers have disappeared over the years) and can often be found separated by a dash. For some reason (never got a chance to ask the people that laid out the San Jose plant) only 5 different digit were used


    There are tons of different marks on the frame rails, inner fenders and else where . Don;t make the mistake of comparing/sharing between years, plants and even shifts as they were often very different

  • 67 k code vin

    Quote from 41GPAWS

    I am in the process of buying a 67 GT350 and want to make sure what to look for.


    These might help 67- San Jose K's and Q's


    Drivers side Ford VIN x2

    [Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/7R01T109925Vinandhidden.jpg]


    Passenger side Ford VIN

    [Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/T02C183814.jpg]


    Trans Ford VIN

    [Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/67transVIN.jpg]


    Engine Ford VIN

    [Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/KcodeVINblock.jpg]


    Passenger side Shelby VIN

    [Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/67-165VINstamp.jpg]


    Hope this helps

  • Intake manifold question

    It is says SHELBY expect to loss points (since the part was not available when the car was new)


    They did use the S7 and the blank aluminum intakes on the Shelbys but don't believe either made it into the over the counter packaging


    If it is an original COBRA I would expect you to have the Lemans carb also since they were sold as a pair over the counter I believe at the time. Have a close friend who has a one owner (well two now) 66 K code that had the intake kit put on it when new or one year old. Pretty original car (though they did clean up the engine compartment :(

  • paint daub paint

    Any tips.... well there are some but the problem is, is that you get one shot at some of these. So you have to work quick and have a camera handy.


    A few things people have had success with ... but of course first you need to know where to look ;)


    1- Some have found that a coat of oven cleaner will strip the paint (while preparing to restore a part) but it can make a mark stand out more and bring the color out of what remains as the spot expands and dissolves. This seems to work where the mark was over a painted surface


    2- Where the mark was over bare metal media blasting the area seems to produce some good results.


    3- Where you have a collection (read drip or run) of paint from a mark. Always cut through it or sand the outer surface to remove the results of the elements and wear to see the original color (wet is s little with a little oil helps also)


    4- With some be very careful with cleaners because some can be removed (crayon and ink marks) by simply wiping them with a cotton cloth.


    5- Finally take pictures and look at them on the computer. I;m finding that for what ever reason I can sometimes see in the pictures marks that were not visible in person. Rare but I have one last wee this way. Really surprised me.... and I need to return to see how dramtic the difference may be


    Hope this helps

  • paint daub paint

    As I mentioned over there I use Testors and other paints (Rustoleum and other hobby color) to mix and tone the colors to what I need. I've found very few of the Testors right out of the bottle, that will work for me. Add that to the fact that I do a fair share of the marks and the little hobby bottle are nor enough and cost more in the long run. Also remember that a certain amount of the marks (depending on what factory and years we're looking at) are done with spray or permanent crayon. And no I've never cleared over any of the marks. Done right they will last long enough


    One word of caution don't waste your time on things like paint marks until you've got everything else done. These details will only make incorrect items stand out more. We see allot of people throwing these on lately - from people building clones to cars they are planning to sell (hoping to influence a possible buyer )


    Also don't just start throwing on marks that you have seen at a show, in a magazine or they are in the assembly manual. Way too many variablies to be sure that the car your taking them from was built at the same time, plant, same shift and with the same options as yours. how will you feel if they are wrong and someone else copies them thinking they are right.

  • 1967 Group II Cars

    Quote from rr64

    For the 1967 season, Shelby American prepared some small number of Mustang race cars for Group II (Trans-Am) and Bud Moore did a few Cougars.


    1) Does anybody here own one of these cars?


    Don't own one but a friend had one (as well as a 66 Grp I) I know of a number of others and have some of the original paperwork that has been provided to me


    Quote from rr64

    2) Did they leave Ford's plants as complete cars or bodies in white and if running cars did they have production HP289 engines?


    Complete running cars just like the regular Shelbys. They were built in groups under special orders like Shelbys were


    Quote from rr64

    I wonder about if these cars ever even for a day had production engines. The 1967 vintage material that Ford published and provided to racers for Group II cars (and GT40s) has a detailed parts list. Most of the race engine parts are ones I have only heard rumors of, you know bench racing legends. Many have C6FE or C7FE engineering number prefixes. (The cylinder heads, cylinder blocks, and camshafts are well known but I have never seen examples most of the others.)


    Engines were assembled, dynoed and tuned at Shelby and installed in the cars. How the cars were equipped depended on the customer and what country they were going to run it while most were all the same fulfilling the US rules

  • U-joints

    Quote from cchesley

    The main difference is that most of the new ones have zerk fittings on them. Very difficult to see once installed. .....


    Just depends how much effort one wishes to invest in seeing them ;)


    The other tell-tell sign is that the original have a "valley" or depression in the center of the U-joint. Many of the replacements have a channel in this area to carry the grease to the cups from the zert fitting or are completely solid in this area for strenght


    "rebuilt" original car bring $100-up ea

  • 5F09K362491 NIR

    "Anyone else out there have an AC story?


    You bet, plenty of stories (like the guy who swore his Boss 302 originally had AC - even had some paperwork he claimed proved it). But I leave it just there... stories ;)

  • Hipo Serial Numbers

    " I heard through numerous shop chat sessions that all "K" engines were serial numbered according to the number that they were built. #1

    engine, #2 engine, etc. Is anyone aware of this and if so,"


    Never heard that story. Believe you will find that if stamped they were stamped with the car's VIN at the car assembly plant.


    Engines were stamped with the date and the assembler maybe that is what the "stories" miss interpreted