Quote from pony65kWhy is it us, I've noticed some bad things being done to K's over there and you have more than us. It may have been imported that way as well!!
RP
It might just be me, associating it that way. Or maybe a Konspiracy by the auto parts shops. At least the Wiggles (to my Knowledge) haven't Kustomized one yet. That'd be way too Kolorful.
(just noticed it still has California plates, too.)
What is it with Aussie cars and having baby-blue parts under the hood? The rest of the car may look nice, but then they end up with baby-blue wires, coil or distributor cap, and sometimes engine paint, usually combined with the '66 style Cobra valve covers. Eeeeyuck!
Yeah, it isn't all concourse. Who in this forum would NOT like to have it anyway, since it is still clean and good looking? It's like saying you wouldn't want Pamela Anderson because she is 40-ish and has a few parts she wasn't originally built with (and non-original painjob). 
Imagine if it was perfect: You couldn't drive it, but you could talk about it on the "Concourse Hipo Mustang Ekschange".
Thanks, Dave. I remember reading something about those steering pumps before. In the "K Mustangs" section of the forum, the recent one titled "Legendary" has it in the wrong spot. Nice car, though. I also don't see a sticker on the coil on that one (should it have that?), and I think the steering linkage isn't the correct detail color. Anyway those coincidentally were details I was wondering about.
BTW- it was nice talking to you a few weeks back...
I've noticed on photos of kars that the windshield washer bag isn't always in the same place. My kar has 2 sets of dimples, one is farther back and higher, the other is farther forward and down slightly. Is there some reason for the 2 sets, and is there a correct set to use?
Also I've noticed that many use a black top coil (probably Pertronix)instead of yellow top. Anyway, where on the coil does the sticker go on '65 models?
Two photos:
First, the rear framerail arrangement on my early San Jose fastback, inboard driver's side. (Ignore the ladder bar - it will be replaced by a standard shackle).
[Blocked Image: http://hometown.aol.com/misterend/images/earlyrear.jpg]
Below is a close-up of the shackle and hole area. You can see the reinforcement plate for the tie-down inside the hole, not to be confused for an exhaust hangar plate. Notice how the shackle mount looks like a separate bracket sitting in a framerail cutout. The photos I have seen of replacements don't look like this, though I could be mistaken.
[Blocked Image: http://hometown.aol.com/misterend/images/shackle.jpg]
I know that photos add cost to a book, but it would be nice to have some of these details documented by more than text. Tony's book is still a top-notch resource, though.
This is my dads car, hopefully it wont sell!!!!!!!
Good thing we didn't say anything bad about it!
Laki,
I got the articles you sent - thank you very much. They aren't exactly what I was looking for, but interesting anyway. I was looking more for dynomometer curves.
FYI for the others: Laki sent 2 articles. One was a HiPo road test & evaluation and the other was the same thing on the GT350. Some of the Hipo article sounded familiar, so I think it was republished at another time. There are a few numbers in there, like optimum shift points, acceleration, etc.
Hey, I actually remembered to take a look at my early frame rails. Not surprisingly they don't match the book. This info may also help answer the following thread:
http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5899
The access hole is 3.5" forward of the shackle, with nothing in between, and nothing behind the shackle. There is a reinforcement plate just forward of the access hole, but it is for the tie-down bracket (mine are still on the car). This is fortunate because the rail is badly corroded there and the thick bracket and plate are probably holding things together!
The tie-down bracket's rear-most hole is 1.75" forward of the center of the frame-rail hole. The middle hole is about 2.75" from the center of the frame-rail hole. The forward-most hole for the tie-down is 4.25" forward of the center of the frame-rail hole.
Note: Tie-down has 2 holes on the side of the frame rail and one threaded one on the bottom. (see this old pic, front is to left:)
http://hometown.aol.com/misterend/images/lhang.jpg
The early-style tailpipe hanger for transverse exhaust is mounted 8" forward of the frame-rail hole. Other than the holes I mentioned, there is nothing else.
One other thing I noticed is that the shackle mount looks a little different than the pictures of I have seen. It looks like it was built as a complete bracket, with a flat part that mounts to the trunk floor. The rear frame rail has cutout areas on the sides that go loosely around the tubular parts of the shackle bracket. The photos that I have seen of replacement frame rails all look like the bracket and frame rail are more integral.
I am absolutely positive that my rails are original, and that my car is an October '64 Hipo. I think Gerald ("65Hipo") has an early transverse car, too. I'll try to take some photos and link them here.
Lyle
Quote from round2KOne other note on the lack of frame rail plates: you will also be missing the two bolt holes for the GT style hangers in the frame rail, which further explains the lack of rail plates.
I need to pay more attention. I thought the book was talking about reinforcement for the dual exhaust tailpipe hangers, not the GT exhaust trumpets which transverse cars would all be too early for. Wish I was at home so I could look at the book - I'm so corn-fuse-ed.
I don't know you, but you must be nuts to be in this group.
I have an October 21 San Jose fastback that still has the transverse-style tailpipe hangers. I have never checked for the framerail plate, but will try to remember this weekend. From what I understand, it is kinda like proctology - put your pinky up in the hole and...
Has anyone used Midolyne bushings? American Pony Parts sells a kit and claims it is better than polyurethane.
Also, why don't these kits ever include spring perch bushings nor lower control arm bushings?
Lastly, CJPony sells "Energy" and "Prothane" polyurethane bushings. Are those just different brands, or are they different?
I'm glad I bought my white one a few years ago. CJ Pony Parts current catalog description of part "FPB" is "65 WHT W/RED SCRIPT". The photo at their online store shows the red one, but the description says something like "Red Script". You may want to call them, just in case... 1-800-888-6473
I'd be willing to post the curves themselves (with proper credit to the article) when I get them, but I don't want to abuse copyright by posting the article. Else maybe I could scan and email them.
Quote from 66gtkI also use "Seafoam" instead of Stabil.
Seafoam is the greatest (it actually works). My father-in-law is a retired mechanic who has been using it since the 1940's. They also make a good product (Trans Tune) for automatic transmissions that have gotten gummed up from sitting around. Best of all, it is made in Hopkins, Minnesota. I keep thinking I should drive over there and buy a case, though at $5 a can that could be a bit costly!
Hhhhmmmmm, no disc brakes, "ac" doesn't work AND power steering. On a k-code. Just curious.
Did they all have disc in '66? I know many '65 kars don't.
I was also noticing that first picture showing the undercarriage. black under the floors, red in the tunnel. My floors were originally black, haven't inspeced the tunnel that close yet.
Wow - Now that's white! And it'll never look so clean again...
Hi all,
Does anyone have (or know where to find) torque curves for stock HiPo versus GT350? Similarly, any curves for Hipo with manifolds versus tri-Y? I'm interested mostly in torque below 4000RPM for these scenerios. Peak values aren't what I'm after. I'm interested in off-the-line "growl".
Lyle
Quote from raccolI'll have to follow up but so far we haven't generated enough interest to keep the price low.
How low is low? Is $20 each too high? I thought most of those custom frame websites came out around that price for very small quantities. Maybe we just give the place a couple of named designs, and members can go there individually and place their own orders. Just a suggestion.
I emailed this to Snell with a photo, but will just paste the text here. I'm sure this happens to some of you guys a lot, but I rarely get the chance to examine other people's Mustangs:
I saw this car outside a buffet so of course I had to check it out, especially with the HiPo badges on it. I was a little skeptical because it would be a ’65 HiPo GT – pretty rare. The owner came out while I was gawking and he told me it was a super-rare “’65 HiPo GT Automatic” (red flag) that he bought in Texas. Hmmm – there were zero of those made that I know of.
While he was talking, he had the door open and I noticed that there was no VIN plate on it. More hmmm and another red flag. But he was telling me about needing to adjust the valve train (as you would expect with solid lifters) and I was dying to look at the VIN number under the hood. He liked to talk about the car and was very willing to let me see the engine compartment. While he was talking about the dealer-installed air conditioning, I saw a vacuum-diaphragm on the distributor, no manual choke, and the VIN code 5F07A6xxxxx.
A-hah! A standard 220HP V8 car, not a 271HP HiPo.
I didn’t have the heart to ruin his day by telling him that and didn’t have the time to see if it was an original GT (did they come with automatics in ’65?) Convenient that without the door tag, that “re-sale red” color couldn’t be verified. The guy is happy with his car so why mess with his day? He didn’t sound interested in Mustang websites when I mentioned HiPoMustang.com. One last flag: He was telling me about all the “NOS” parts available now and being made from Ford Tooling. New “New Old Stock”? He didn’t want to sell, and I reassured him I didn’t want to buy….
