Posts by b9folk_old

  • looking for advise

    From your kar's listing:

    Quote

    Engine has casting code but I cannot guarantee it is an original hipo motor


    And from the other kar's listing:

    Quote

    Original motor missing but does come with a hipo motor


    They don't appear deceptive to me. These are cases where the buyer needs to ask questions and clarify what they are buying. The only thing suspicious is that someone selling 2 kars on this site wouldn't be a better informed seller. Not having the original motor is unfortunately a pretty common situation.

  • New guy fra Denmark

    Anders,


    I've been to Helsingor and toured the castle there, and also took the Oresund bridge from Malmo to Copenhagen (Kobenhamn?) to see Tivoli Gardens and the Hard Rock Cafe. I think my flights from Stavanger originated there, too. Denmark is a nice place, and the people know how to live!


    (sorry about the spelling - it is easier to type "o" than the correct letter)

  • vin number on block

    My early San Jose trans is same as in above photo. Too bad Ford didn't have a nice flat flange on the engine blocks to stamp on, because the trans stamps are easy to see. These days they'd probably have a bar-coded sticker that would peel off in a short amount of time.

  • vin number on block

    Quote from DJames

    Some folks weren't above snatching the motor out, putting a blown up 'C' code motor in the car and getting themselves a spare on Ford's dime.


    I wonder if that's what happened to my car. It ended up with a C code engine, except it wasn't blown up. Whoever did it left the rare '65 K motor mounts, early dual exhaust hangers, and hipo fan, as well as the VIN stamped tranny. But there is a '65 correct single exhaust hanger with the same dealer undercoating as the rest of it. Hmmm... If only these kars could talk.

  • 5T09K163393

    Quote from 289route66

    Registry lists body color as R. If that's correct, guess they didn't like ivy green.

    Beware of "Resale Red", the most popular paint color. Based on my observations, driving a car with this color (with the windows down) strips the color from one's hair, making it gray or white. Convertables are worse, because then the air moves over the hood and over the top of the driver's head, stripping it of hair and resulting in something resembling baldness...

  • Replacement carpet fit and quality

    Just to add another scenerio to the discussion, I have an early '65 fastback that had the vinyl under the door sills instead of having carpet that goes up and under the sill plates.


    The carpet was gone when I got the car (1989), just some of the vinyl remained. So I put in standard black carpet. It faded quickly and got mouse pee all over it, so out it went. At least it was thick. I bought another set of carpet around 1995/1996 that is still in the box. Probably ACC (will have to look).


    Now that Virginia Classic Mustang offers the vinyl as well as a custom carpet order for early fastback, I will go that route to make it the correct style. It is ACC so it may or may not be as bad as standard. Probably will be worse. If anyone needs a full set of standard 1965/1966 black fastback carpet made in the mid 1990's, I may be willing to part with it for a reasonable price plus shipping. I'll have to check it first, though, to make sure that no mice have gotten into the box.


    There is supposed to be padding on the trans tunnel, and I think that area gave me fit problems before. But it is easier to get my console (the only option other than K motor on my car) screws in correctly without extra padding.


    Lyle

  • 5F09K389854

    Man, it looks like what I started with, except with spray-in foam, way more overspray, and some other unidentified "gunk". It appears to be an early car (look at the hood bumpers, inside door handles, rear fold-down seat supports, no heater box cutout for resistors)and I think I detect an original mix of Red Oxide primer and Poppy Red paint on some inside areas, just like my car. I wonder if the carburetor was covered when they painted it...


    At least the seller is providing lots of disclosure. That's refreshing.

  • Hipo Fuel Pump Question

    I read this on a Q & A for a current eBay listing, don't know if it came from this group. But I'm ignorant so I'm wondering if it is accurate. I thought the early cars' screw-together pumps also came in a Hipo variety.


    Quote

    Hi, the X on the fuel pump body does not mean it is a hipo, it only maens that this is the improved pump that makes less noise than the ones without the X. These pumps came into service in 1963. The H3 date code on your pump means it was built Aug 1963 and it fits 260-289 small block V8. There were NO special hipo pumps until 1965 when they came out with the crimp together pumps. What you have here is a 1964 260-289 pump most likely from a falcon/fairlane/galaxie.

  • 4th edition - frame rail plates

    Quote from CharlesTurner

    Is that an exhaust clamp around the LH shock?! :?::D


    Whatever it is, it kept the "helper" spring in place so that (with the help of the ladder bars shown earlier in this thread) the 8" wide reverse-offset rims had room to stick out under the fender lip. The car still bottomed out on bumps! I'll be going back to stock Syled Steel wheels, dual redlines, and much less rear altitude.

  • real build date lag curiosity

    Hey all,


    Gerald (Raley65) and I have been discussing our October '64 San Jose cars. We all know that actual build dates could be a couple of weeks later than scheduled, but I think they really got behind in late '64. I had an idea that if a person had their original vin stamped fender aprons, they could look at the dates stamped on those same pieces, plus the driver's door sheetmetal.


    I was wondering if folks with early '65 kars would be willing to share:

    1. Scheduled build date on door tag

    2. Date stampings on their aprons (possibly door, too)

    3. Assembly plant


    My scheduled build date was October 21, 1964 (date 21K on door plate), the stampings on the three vin-stamped fender apron pieces were 11 4, 11 8, and 11 7 (not including shift code). I looked at the hood hinges since I was in the area, and they were dated 10 20 and 11 13. Driver's door was 10 2 (under the top edge of the door panel).

  • 5F07K278140

    I'll have to do some archaeology. I found the passenger-side one after having worked on that area for some time without seeing it through the grunge.


    (UPDATE: Yahoo! I found it, but had to scrape away lots of gunk. What a great hobby, where scraping gunk away to see a shallow, double-stamped warranty number is exciting!)


    Back on topic - this Kar looks like it would make someone a fun driver.

  • special Musclecars magazine issue

    This weekend I came across a magazine on the rack:


    HOT ROD Archive Series #4

    MUSCLECARS

    Fall 2006


    It has a picture of a GT350 on the cover and "26 pages of Shelby Mustangs and Pony Cars". "200+ Vintage Photos".


    It also has a lot of stuff on the other brands, too. I highly recommend it as a "musclecar era in a nutshell". Some neat Shelby production photos, Hipos and GT350's being abused on the test track, etc.


    Lyle

  • 5F07K278140

    Quote from 66tiger

    Vin number is on all 3 apron spots 2 on the drivers side on on the passanger side.


    2 places on driver's side? I must be ignorant. Is it supposed to be stamped somewhere on the rear driver's apron, too, or does that refer to a buck tag? I have early San Jose car if that makes any difference.