Posts by sfm6s356_old

sfm6s356_old · Rear End Ratio Woes... sfm6s356_old April 24, 2008 at 10:13 PM

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Your Kar would originally have a 1310 size U-joint and not a 1330. The 1330 U-joints were used in big block and Boss cars but not 65/66 Hipo Kars. You might want to recheck your measurements. Of course it is always possible that someone upgraded your Kar to 1330 U-joints in the past. I know that I have made the upgrade before myself.

-Fred-

Thanks (again) for the heads up, Fred. I actually wrote a rather lengthy reply to your post that somehow got munched when I tried to post it. I don't feel like retyping the whole thing at 11:30 PM.

Short story: I had planned on remeasuring EVERYTHING before I order tomorrow AM. I'll report back, and I'm way bummed my last post got munched.

Edited by - sfm6s356 on 04/24/2008 22:24:19

sfm6s356_old · Rear End Ratio Woes... sfm6s356_old April 24, 2008 at 8:20 PM

Hey guys...

Per this link I posted the other day:

http://www.metropartsmarket.com/rearend/measure.html

My pinion yoke appears to be a 1330, and it is 4 1/2" long. I'll be specing that, and will get my unit ordered tomorrow.

sfm6s356_old · Something Fun: K-code Mustang guitar sfm6s356_old April 23, 2008 at 11:17 PM

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Your Left rear tire needs air

Ha Ha Ha.

Beat me to it.

If you want a SMOKIN' custom built axe to your specs, check out my friend Ray. His work is AMAZING. He's also pretty handy with a dwell meter...

http://www.oldmoonguitars.com

sfm6s356_old · Rear End Ratio Woes... sfm6s356_old April 23, 2008 at 9:39 PM

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My only concern would be that your Kar will need a very specific and hard to find pinion yoke which the seller may not have. If you are not concerned with date codes on your castings, this may be right for you as all of the internal parts are new.

-Fred-

Hi Fred.

I'm not concerned with date codes, as I plan to keep the original 4.11 third member on the shelf, since it's proper for the car. Is there something "special" about the pinion yoke as well? I wasn't aware of this.

sfm6s356_old · Rear End Ratio Woes... sfm6s356_old April 23, 2008 at 4:30 PM

Per my axle spline question earlier, I just happened across this:

http://www.metropartsmarket.com/rearend/measure.html

I definitely have the 28 spline axles. Unfortunately, good bone yards don't exist around where I live anymore. There used to be a bunch of them when I was cutting my teeth on these cars as a kid that I visited quite regularly.

As an added bonus, I'm old and lazy now, and don't feel like finding a junkyard and getting all dirty pulling apart a rear end.

I found this dude on Ebay. What do you guys think of the price?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-F…emZ220226124232

This might work for me, and he has good feedback and reasonable freight.

sfm6s356_old · Rear End Ratio Woes... sfm6s356_old April 23, 2008 at 10:07 AM

Also: Kman, where in CT are you? I'm in Stamford.

sfm6s356_old · Rear End Ratio Woes... sfm6s356_old April 23, 2008 at 10:05 AM

I love this board. It's the perfect place to ask these kinds of questions. You guys are great.

Based on this input, I think I'll try out the 3.50 set on this car. Do you guys have any good third member suppliers, as I plan on swapping out the whole chunk? Does anyone know what speedo gear to use with 3.50 and stock styled steel wheels and dual redlines? (I can get more wheel/tire info if needed).

I see that David Kee sells these units, but I'm guessing his prices are high.

Also: Do I need to be concerned with the number of splines? Obviously, I would prefer to get the new third member here before ripping the rear end apart. My car is bone STOCK, so I would assume that there is one set of spines for it. Then again, I know what can happen with ASSuming, so I'd better ask here first. I'll take it out and count before I order if I have to.

You can see some of my cars on You Tube at:

http://www.youtube.com/user/TheREALroadtripguy

Just weed through the iguana videos, and you'll find them.

Thanks again for all the help, guys!

sfm6s356_old · Rear End Ratio Woes... sfm6s356_old April 22, 2008 at 10:57 PM

Hey kiddies...

Well, I've been testing a motor I built for my '66 Sunbeam Tiger currently installed in my '65 Mustang HiPo Covertible this year, and I've finally had enough. The origial HiPo motor is being detailed during my "test."

My HiPo stang is transmission and engine "numbers matching," and is all (restored) original. My problem is my rear end ratio.

I've owned this car since around 1991, and it's always been a bear to drive. It has 4:11 gears in it (correct, per the door tag), and unlike the Beach Boys song, it drives like a friggin' school bus.

Since I have no desire to pull tree stumps out, or be shifting into forth gear around 40 MPH, I've had enough, and need to put some "longer legs" into this 'Stang before I get disgusted and sell it.

I also own a 1966 Shelby (note my user name) which has 3:89 gears in it. I kinda like this set, since it has plenty of punch, yet seems better suited to highway driving.

My '65 has stock styled steel wheels, and dual redlines. Any feedback on rear end ratios you guys like?

Thanx.

sfm6s356_old · Need some advice... sfm6s356_old February 18, 2008 at 3:31 PM

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Gerry,

Are you upgrading the radiator on your Tiger? There are several aftermarket companies that make aluminum units now, which do a better job of cooling. Seems like alot of work switching motors to break in an engine. Even once the engine is broken in, if it's running hot you will have to address the cooling system, so why not get it right from the start. There is a fair amount of info about these upgrades if you do an internet search.

For your Kvert, you talk about resale value, so you might be selling it in the future. If it's an original car, stock is better. I am not sure the pricey Shelby parts would make your vert more sellable, even with the stock parts going along with the sale. The Shelby parts by themselves would bring a pretty good price in the marketplace, and chances are your K would sell for the the same $'s with or without the Shelby parts on it. Either way, as mentioned, switching them is an afternoon job if you decide to sell. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Hi Chuck...

Actually, I've done some research on my Tiger cooling issues already, and do plan on installing an aluminum radiator (would appreciate a source if you have one) as well as a few other mods when I get around to putting this new motor in the car (I've owned this car since around 1991). I blocked off the horn holes and installed a "pusher" fan a few years ago, and those 2 things alone helped quite a bit. I'd put a LAT hood on it if I didn't think they were ugly.

When I do this mod, I also may widen the opening for the radiator to get more air flow (CAREFULLY with a template), and I am definitely going to seal the front of the lower radiator. I'll also be looking for another flex fan, as mine is pretty beat up. As an experiment, I'd like to make a short aluminum "belly pan" for the front of the car and see if that helps any as well. Yes, I have the fan shroud.

With regard to the break in, I need to redetail my K car again anyway, so it's no big deal (it's winter, so I don't lose any drive time). Also, it's just plain easier to do in the Mustang rather than the cramped Tiger engine compartment if I run into any problems.

The motor for the Tiger is pretty nice. It's a 6 bolt 1966 289 with a Comp Cams "Nostalgia" cam. The cam I bought is the hydraulic version of the HiPo cam. Also, it has a rebuilt Ford dual point HiPo distributor (with a pertronix unit), an edelbrock F4B intake maniford, and a custom 715 CFM Shelby Holley carb I put together specifically for this motor (more of my expensive extra Shelby parts, I know). The motor has been bored, the crank turned, hardened valve seats, new valves and springs,etc., the usual.

It's not a crazy high compression cammed out monster, so I don't expect any abnormal cooling issues. Just the "normal" Tiger cooling issues.

sfm6s356_old · Need some advice... sfm6s356_old February 17, 2008 at 4:27 PM

Just as a pleasure car.

sfm6s356_old · Need some advice... sfm6s356_old February 17, 2008 at 11:13 AM

Hey guys,

I don't post here often but lurk often. I own a 1966 Shelby GT350, a 1966 Sunbeam Tiger, and a 1965 K code GT convertible.

Currently I'm in the process of yanking the motor in my K car so that I can redetail the engine compartment, and put in a warmed up 289 four barrel that I built for my Tiger. I'm breaking in the Tiger motor in my K car because it is tighter than a cheerleader on prom night from the rebuild, and Tigers are very prone to overheating problems, which I don't want to deal with during break in. I plan to put around 500 miles on it before I put the HiPo back in.

My HiPo motor is all original and numbers matching. I happen to have an extra set of valve covers, intake, oil pan, and carburetor for my Shelby(all original buddy bar castings, carb is a repro I bought years ago). I'm tempted to put these on my HiPo motor while it's out of the car (keeping all the original parts in a box, of course).

What do you guys think? Do you think this enhances the value of my car? I have the parts, so it's FREE for me to pick up the extra ponies. I also think the 715CFM list 3259 Holley stores better, and is easier to deal with than the stock Autolite (in my experience)

Any input is appreciated.

Thank you.

sfm6s356_old · READ ABOUT DISHONEST Parts Vendor sfm6s356_old February 17, 2008 at 10:55 AM

It's amazing what you learn on this board. I just got finished converting an extra 715CFM list 3259 Holley that I have for use on my 66 Tiger. I put on center hung fuel bowls, and an automatic choke for this application (yes, I have the LeMans float bowls and manual choke for it).

I had NO idea that the choke hole was filled on this carb. I guess I'll have to use either the manual choke, or automatic choke for it. Oh well. Thanx for the heads up, guys!