well checked the yoke to tail shaft and it was with in spec. I ended up pulling the t5 out and put my t10 back in to see if i still have the same problem. at least i have the whole pull the tranny/bellhousing/clutch thing down where i think i could be in nascar. i'll keep everyone interested posted on what comes of all this.
thanks
duke
that is something I'm going to check now. if it is with in spec then im going to put the t10 back in and hopefully be able to drive. thanks for your reply, keep them coming even if its the smallest thing that i might have over looked.
Duke
I need some help in reguards to a t-5 swap I did to my car last year. Ever since I did this swap I have violent clutch chatter taking off, mostly on hills. I replaced my rear main seal when I did the swap and its seemed to leak ever since. I did take the pin out so thats not why its leaking. All my U joints, motor/trans mounts, leaf springs are brand new. I've had this tranny out three times, replaced the clutch twice and resurfaced the flywheel. I have pointed my finger at rear end gears(3.23), tire size(245/40zr18) but it just doesnt make sense. Please throw any ideas at me before I rip it out again and have both my motor and tranny rebuilt.
Thanks
Duke
I thank all you guys for the info. It is def spring binding that I am having a problem with. I am going to replace everything with a full matched cam, lifters, springs, retainers, ect... Hopefully this will fix my problems and I can enjoy my pony the rest of the year trouble free. I'll keep you all posted on how I miake out. Thanks again.
Duke
I seem to have a problem with my rocker arms in my motor. I have broken two rocker in half. the car idled great and only when i got on it did i have a problem. i have solid lifters, stock rocker arms, stock springs with a higher lift cam (not sure how much lift, it was installed before I bought the car). This past winter I replaced the heads because i was having problems with my rocker studs backing out of the head. i replaced them with 302 heads off a 347 stroker which was pro built and ran very well. I'm looking for all suggestions on what I should do. having the motor rebuilt at a machine shop is not an option for me at the time because I just bought a house. thanks again
Duke
well after spending a little more time with this problem, changing wires and regapping the plug. i finally pulled the plug and looked at it more and the white part had small cracks in it. So I replaced the plug and the problem went away. thanks for all the responses with this matter.
duke
That is actually the first thing I thought of when I saw it. Thanks for the reply I'm going to look into it more this afternoon. If anyone thinks of anything else please let me know. I'll let you know how I make out tonight. Thanks again
Duke
i fired my car up today and heard a slight ticking sound coming from the passenger side of my motor. when i looked closer i noticed a spark jumping from the plug boot to the plug/block. What causes this and how do i fix it. the wires are only one season old and are not cracked or bad. any suggestions help.
duke
I don't know if this helps you at all but on my car I have 18 inch wheels all the way around 18x7 on the front with 235/40zr18, and on the rear I have 18x8 with 245/40zr18. The car has not been lowered and there is no tire rubbing. hope this helps.
Duke
I'm running my stock dist (mech advance). i have a petronix unit for it, but right now I'm using my points which with the box I only have to run the front point without the second and without the condensor. Its not the wiring for the msd box I'm not sure about, its the rally pac that I'm not sure of. If I knew where the wires for the rally pac went originally then it would help me out alot. Any info helps.
Thanks again.
Duke
Now when you wired it did you only run the single wire from the box to the tach or did you still run it off the coil. I'm a little confused on where the wires go when wiring the rally pac. I have seen people ask this on here before and most of the time they get reffered to the wiring diagram from a place like Mustangs Unlimited. I bought this diagram and it tells me nothing. I need to know where the wires go not just plugged into under the dash, due to my harness being spliced all over. Please keep the comments coming you guys have been great on everything I have ever asked on here.
Duke
i was wondering if anyone was running an msd box with their rally pac? i recently added an msd box and tried hooking up my rally pac and it doesn't work. the only result that i got was the tach staying at 3000 rpms. the box and the rally pac are new to the car. the rally pac is an original. i am also unsure of what wires go where. i know that everyone says to get the wiring diagram but i did this and it doesn't really tell me much. let me know what you guys think.
Duke
Edited by - SixT5HiPo on 05/03/2008 23:06:43
This up coming weekend there is a mustang and ford show at moroso in Guilford ,CT. Reg starts at 9 judging starts at 1230 awards at 330. $15 to enter or $10 with a bag of dog food. This show is right off I-95 exit 59. There should be signs at the exit. I'll be bringing my K down there, and would love to see some of you CT K owners out there also. Hope to see you there and if not I'll let you know how i do.
Duke
Fred,
well i got my radiator flushed and it solved all my problems. come to find out that you were right on the money. the shop told me that they took out almost three buckets of rust and just nasty stuff out of my system. on top of that my radiator cap wasn't holding enough pressure so that didn't help. now it holds the pressure my system does exactly what its supposed to and no more antifreeze all over my engine bay. now its time to drive it and enjoy it instead of driving it and cleaning it. thank you all for the input you guys are never a let down when it comes giving advice.
thanks again
Duke
Fred,
i think that you might be right. i took my cap off and sure enough there was a ton of rust stuck in the tubes of my radiator. i do have a three row radiator i tried to get as much of the rust out with a magnet, but i have schedualed an appointment to get my system flushed. As for compression ratio i have not the slightest clue the motor was built before i bought the car. i know they are higher because the piston is domed, but its not to radical. i will keep you posted on how it turns out after i get it flushed.
Duke
this is not the first time the motor has been running this year. i have had the car running and driving since july. however i have had this problem since i first started it. there was some evidence that this motor was doing this before i rebuilt it, having antifreeze stains in the motor compartment. as for the radiator, i wouldn't think that it would be clogged because its new, but the antifreeze tends to end up looking a brown color after it has been run for a while. if it was clogged a little would that make it pressurise like it is on my car? i have already flushed the system and radiator once and i still have this problem. i checked to see if the tabs were on the front of the block and they are so most likely the gaskets are on right. i do have internal work done to the motor like higher comp pistons, cam, roller rockers and intake. i don't think that the system is one of those find its own level type, after it blows out antifreeze its down at least a half gallon depending on how long i drive it for. warped heads is another thing i was thinking of checking but that obviously won't happen until it comes apart. please keep all the advise coming its all appreciated.
Duke
i am getting flow after the system reaches the thermostat temp of 180. i have the thermostat in the correct way. when my car is just sitting everything is fine, but when i drive it and have it reving up higher thats when i believe it is coming out of my overflow. this is why i think that it is the head gaskets. if its not the head gaskets what could it be?
Duke
i finally got my car running and on the road. but for some
reason i am having trouble with my coolant system. i have come
to the conclusion that my problem is a blown head gasket. i the car runs fine runs at a normal temp sometimes a little warm but nothing more than 205-210. after i am done driving there is antifreeze all over my engine bay from my overflow. there is no air pockets in it and the system is getting enough pressure on a 14lbs cap to blow it out. so am i right that its a head gasket or could it possibly be something else. please help.
Duke
hi joe and welcome,
there is mustang strictly clubs in CT unfortunatly they are in eastern ct. if you want to check out the website secmc.com.i am also in ct getting ready to attend a local cruise near you in the hamden plaza. hope to run into you or hear from you soon.
Duke
ok i finally got my car running and the exhaust is all on. but now i have no idea what i should be running for timing. i have the hipo mech dizzy, roller rockers, solid lifters, dual valve springs, slightly higher compression, with a mild cam. i am having trouble getting the car to idle when started, but after it reaches running temp it idles high around 1100-1200 (guesstamate no tach). sometimes after i turn it off after driving the motor will cough once or twice. i tried to time it myself but i need more info from people who have these cars. oh and right now i am running 16 degrees advanced, with a dual feed 750 holley (i know its prob way overkill) . thanks again for all the help all you give me.
Duke
