Posts by 6hypo5conv_old

    There is a picture of a K engine in the 4th edition of Tony's book on page 59 at the top that shows the tabs looking like a natural steel color, so what should I do with mine: have them powdercoated/ceramic coated with a black "dipped" look (to me I read "dip" as a bit sloppy) or a satin/semi gloss finish, or a natural metal colored finish, I know that back in the day when these cars were new that when they sat on the dealers lots that the exhaust manifolds and these tabs would start rusting right away, and no one paid them any thought then, but now that we're restoring these cars, painting the exhaust manifolds and all, there must be something that IS correct to put on these tabs so they won't rust and look like they are supose to.


    Edited by - 6hypo5conv on 02/03/2011 19:10:47

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    AMK bolts and tabs are supplied with the correct finish. If you want to do your own, use the Eastwood Phosphate kit.

    Jim

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    Jim & All: I just got a brand new AMK Exhaust manifold bolt/lock kit (#F-556)(AMK) have not even opened it yet, the bolts and washers look like a grayish phosphate finish, the tabs themselves look to be just plain naked steel-untreated, this is what I basicly have now that has started to oxidise/rust, Charles has said that original examples have been seen with what looks like a Black dipped-looking finish on these tabs.....if I'm going to change these things out I really want to get them right and not have any further questions about their appearance later on down the road.

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    Believe the correct screws will depend on the assembly plant. Found 'D' on Dearborn cars and 'CF' on San Jose. I'm not so sure that the original straps were simply cut/made from radiator hose. Might have been similar material, but the original ones I've seen are not smooth.

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    I need then a couple of the "D" screws for my Dearborn car, does anyone know if THIS same screw is used anywhere else in the cars (for reference) or know where/how I could get a couple?


    I have checked my export brace and though it HAS 2 holes there does not seem to have ever been a screw in the one closest to the firewall, this is July 27th scheduled build date, Dearborn plant.

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    Has anyone from our group looked at it yet? where IS the car located? Ohio or New York?

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    The heater hose straps and fasteners being regularly sold on ebay seem to lack any form of part number identification. Having that many "new" parts that lack NOS part number decals, tags, or other genuine Ford identification warrants caution and closer scrutiny; caveat emptor.

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    Do you think there IS a part number for this strap and the bolt(s) for it?

    I had actually dug up this old thread doing some research and realized I spelled a word wrong in my reply so I corrected it and that brought it back to the top-(LOL)


    Anyway, recent conversations with Charles have provided information that BOTH hoses (on a Hipo at least) should go through the strap.

    And MY feeling is that IF the export brace has two holes in it in the area then the strap most likely was attached with two screws-I found that mine HAS the two holes but the strap was only attached with 1 during the restoration.


    I agree that most of the originals were made by cutting old radiator hoses lengthwise-I think the person selling them on Ebay knows just enough to be dangerous, and I think anyone could find some old radiator hose and cut several of these straps out of it.


    Again, MY current strap is made from LEATHER made by a craftsman in the Ohio Amish country, I realize it is not correct this way, but it looks the part and I like it, until I come across some old radiator hose and make up a few....


    Does anyone know where the "correct" screws can be had for these straps? the one in the picture above seems to have a "D" on the head...


    I personally believe that the installation of these straps was an afterthought on Ford's part, I am curious as to what the reason was--I have owned dozens of early Mustangs back in the day and we never worried about the mechanics of an old broken rubber strap.

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    That was a '66 A code GT Convertible with 4 speed, pony interior, short console, correct a/c, freshly done, VERY VERY NICE paint, owner confessed though that it had been built to peddle at auction and said there were many Chinese reproduction parts including sheet metal on it.....

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    AMK bolts and tabs are supplied with the correct finish. If you want to do your own, use the Eastwood Phosphate kit.

    Jim

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    Thanks Jim! I guess the exhaust bolt/lock sets are pretty much correct in make-up and finish, I guess the ones that were put on my engine were neither.


    I do understand only too well about Royalties on AMK's part, I guess some of the fasteners they make are royalty paid and some aren't-they sure do make some great quality stuff to me, and they have pictures of the various markings on bolt heads right on their website.

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    I saw that car on Thursday and I thought it was pretty correct and nice-I would describe it as an extreemly high quality occasional driver car, very nice!!


    There was also a VERY NICE BLACK A code GT '66 that was scheduled to go through at around 10am on Saturday.....would you know how much IT brought?