Posts by 6hypo5conv_old

NPD lists the pulley for $29.95

Guys, Hey, Thanks for the replies and suggestions!

I think I'm going to go and get my heads from this guy as he is kind of small town type shop and although I have "known" him for almost 30 years, and he comes highly recomended I'm not completely sure he is the one that I want to do my heads, Block, and crank now.

I called CYLINDER HEAD EXCHANGE in CALIFORNIA yesterday and spoke to a gentleman who seemed to be interested in looking for/finding me a replacement head from his inventory and then he said bring it/them down and let me take a look, and when I told him I was in Florida, he basicly blew up on me and said FORGET IT!!! I guess my money is no good at his business!

I am having a correct ROUND TAB alternator rebuilt/restored at my local auto electric shop.

The owner took alot of interest in this project and will not only rebuild it but will do anything needed to make it correct.

He has PLENTY of ROUND TAB alternators in his core bin and was surprised when I told him THEY were a little hard to come by.

I am going to buy a new fan and the correct '65 HIPO pulley and have him install them.

What I need to know is what color the Stater should be--the part that shows through at the center of the case-(this is the stater, isn't it?)in the parts books I have it looks like a shade of gold?? also,do the '65 HIPO 289 alternators have the ORANGE ink stamp as the later cars do? Thanks!

I don't think the heads have been milled/cut before, but I have no real way of knowing.

The area where the rust pitting is along where the intake manifold would sit, and again my machine shop guy says that it will need to be milled/cut at least .030 or more to get rid of this rust therefore that is why he said really the only way to TRY & correct this is to double up on the intake gasket to compensate for the material that was removed.

Again, I am no expert in this, I just know I would either like to somehow save MY head or find anouther with a proper date code to replace it.

OK, I just got back from the machine shop and did confirm the rust problem on my head.

Again the guy says it is a bad idea to try & cut the head in that area up to .030 to get rid of it, he said the only hope was to do it & have me double up the intake gasket to compensate and I think that is asking for trouble.

So, I need one C50E head with a date code near 5D28.

The other thing I was thinking about is getting a standard 289 head with the proper date code and having it "converted" to HIPO specs...I've seen these type of heads advertised but have never compared the 2.

I am also considering using the '69-'70 351W heads, I can get a set at a very reasonable price and I had done this swap before and think using these would yeild more horse power that the original 289HP heads, any opinions or a good C50E head with a date code near 5D28 would be much appreciated.

The reason I THINK I need a replacement head is that the machine shop that is doing my heads is saying that due to rust accumulation on the area where the intake sits on one of them it would most likely need to be machined (cut) around .030 to get rid of the rust--I had removed the intake and the engine sat unprotected in my garage for 25 years-he feels this is too much of a mill, I wonder if we do that why we couldn't do the other head the same ammount and then the intake the same so it would all match?? I am NO MACHINEIST so I really don't know if this is a do able process or not, I'd really like to save my ultra important and valuable heads.

Looking for 1 289 HP head for use on July 1965 engine, can be bare but must be useable, I don't have mine in front of me to check the numbers with. Thanks!

Yes, Thats the number thats on my carb, but we were really talking about the engine tag's "J"

Thanks Bob Great info!!! just like your book!!

Ivy, Hey, Thanks!! That makes sense!

I think I'm going to the PONY CARB website and ask JON!

That will work!!!! Thanks Again Charles!!

Anyone have a picture of what a "correct" starter should look like?

I'm going to look at Tony's book and Bob's book again....may be I've missed something??

I am looking for a good original SUN X door glass for the RH (passengers side)for my '65 Convertible, not real concerned about date code, just need glass to be perfect!

May be Bob Mannel will stop by and shed some light???

I will need a starter soon for my 1965 "K" engine.

Haven't seen too much info on starters so I was wondering what I should do for one?

I have several "old" small block starters that need rebuilt, should I try & find "the" right one and have it rebuilt locally, or just buy a top quality unit from my friendly chain auto parts store? are there any particular stampings or markings or colors I should be concerned with? Thanks!

Well, The tag, on the other side (bottom) (left) says "5-G" which indicates 1965-July

I recently got Bob Mannel's Ford small block V8 book and its great!!

However read as I have I cannot figure out what the "J" is for on the bottom right of my engine tag.....everything else is very clear.

I recently bought a HIPO clone 4100 Autolite carburetor from Jon @ Pony and with the info I gave him as to my car being built in July of 1965 he stamped the carbs base plate with a "J" at the end of the numbers as well as the tag he provided, does this "J" mean JULY???

if it does I feel kind of stupid now!

Marv has these sets!! Great guy, great price, great product, great service! (I recently bought a set, along with the HIPO cam, & lifters)

I finally got the shipping case fro David Kee yesterday.

This thing is HUGE!!!! theres room for 4 toploaders in there.....I am going to call them to see if this one is right or if there is anouther size I should have gotten.

Anyone have experiance shipping a trans in Kee's container?? I'm really not sure how to package my trans in there....I was under the impression that the container was more or less form fitting for the toploader.