Posts by 6hypo5conv_old

I just received my repro yellow top from VA Mustang, it "looks" pretty good when compaired to my 2 originals.

I also received 2 of their "DF-33" coil decals, in which the backing says "Official Licensed product" I have had a real time with my glasses clean and on making out the "FoMoCo" inside the oval...it sure looks to me like it reads "FomoA" (the capitol "A" in cursive) anyone have any experiance with this?? I called and asked what was up and the guy copped an atitude with me for just asking a question....I also asked him before I ordered if they knew where the OIL PAN I was about to order was made & they said they had no idea....well, it took me taking the pan out of the box and looking at the little sticker on the plastic bag indicating that the pan came from Tiwan, republic of China!!!

I went ahead and ordered a repro coil from VA Mustang, the guy assured me that they were from a good run, and they had not been getting any back, so between it and my 2 restored originals I should be set.

I have found a second original yellow top coil in my garage!! 1 has 4/D and 1 has 2/B how do I tell the date code by this?? Thanks!

I've cleaned up my original coil that I found in the garage, the top does look pretty good for its age!! the yellow looks like it is a composite material that was dyed that yellow and not painted.

Should I may be clear coat it?? gloss or semi gloss on the black area??

I found my original yellow top coil!!!

I will test it...THANKS for the info!!

It needs to be restored......what is the closest yellow to use??

I just "built" a starter for my 1965 "K" code Mustang using a correct looking top quality re-manufactured starter from my local parts suplier.

When I got the starter it had the rear "band" and the "hump" cover finished in what I believe was zinc-dichromate which is incorrect for our older cars.

"Caspian65" was able to provide a picture of a correct starter for me to use as a guide.

I simply painted the band and the hump with semi-gloss black, then feathered black onto the nose piece, then added the correct proper decal from NPD to it.

Mine sure looks good!! may be you could do the same??

I have hears that the reproduction quarter panels are absolutely terrible and don't fit worth crap......why can't the chineese figure this out???

How can I test the original yellow top that I have before I put it on my engine??

Yea, evedentally NPD does not care about the quality of these coils, the guy I spoke with last night did not even have the same, latest catalog that I had!!!

These damn Chineese.....I see in the paper that they clammer for LARGE GAS GUZZLING SUVs!!!! they must be able to buy them AND pay for the gas from the sale of the inferior reproduction parts that we routenly buy from them.

I just spoke with NPD again about the coils:he said that the "cheaper$$" coils were just that and that I should really wait until they get re-stocked on the better one.

He also suggested that I buy Pertronix coil, paint the top yellow, and add the proper decal and have a much better trouble free coil....anyone done this?? what color yellow is the closest match to the original??

Thanks for all the replies!! I had forgotten about the old thread about the coils.

I woll call VA Mustang & check to see if they have the better one in stock.

I think I might have an original as well, so I'll check that out as well.

I am looking at buying a reproduction Yellow Top Coil.

Our friends at NPD list 2 qualities.

I just placed an order with NPD and the guy I spoke with said they were out of stock on the better, more pricey one.

He also said that most folks didn't like the cheaper one and the difference in price was well worth it to get the better one, any opinions on this??

I need to know what color Rotunda 6000 mile reproduction oil filter I should put on my July 1965 built "K" engine?? Red or Gold?? and where I could possible buy a correct looking sleeve to install on a plain late model motorcrafy FL-1A that can be bought at Wal-Mart??

I'm thinking that the GOLD one is more correct for such a late production '65??

Check with Tony Garcia at:http://www.mustangstickers.com I just had a reproduction window sticker done by him for my '65 "K" convertible, and I understand he has listings for many dealers that existed back then.

So Don, you are building a correct "clone" of the '65-'66 9" "K" code rear end??? is this just a bare housing or is it ready to bolt in with 3rd member for that price??

WM, No problem!! I'm a little surprised that no one else has replied yet....I am just not a fan of the B/W T-10.

If you deceide to go the toploader route I strongly suggest David Kee toploaders for finding one or having one rebuilt.

My opinion is that the B/W T-10 is not nearly as strong as the famous Ford Toploader.

I have been around Mustangs for 30 years and never have seen a factory installed T-10----may be they were used mostly in Shelbys which I'm not really into.

I had a 1965 Falcon with a B/W T-10 from the factory and even behind a stock 2v 289 the trans was nothing but trouble, and so were the 3 replacements!

My suggestion would be to find yourself a good Toploader!

This is all great to hear that Tony is obviously an asset to the Mustang hobby.

I think he has the info and prices.

FWIW: Nate tells me that the convertible top frames are Ecoated (at least on the early Mustangs) he has a guy who works for him does all the nessessary parts with the Ecoating process....I take this to mean Electro-Coating??? not real sure of exactly what the process entails, but Nate explained to me that lots of restorers just powder coat the top frames instead of going to the trouble of finding an Ecoater in their area.