Posts by 6hypo5conv_old

I have a good used 3 speed manual transmission from/for a 1966 Mustang 289 application for sale.

It worked great when removed, NO shifter, but I do have a bellhousing, and may be a decent clutch setup for it as well.

My order info has gotten to Marti, and a man named "John" called and confirmed everything, I asked how long it would be before I would get my tags/plates and he told me 6-8 weeks I asked why and he told me they must wait until they get around 10 of each type plate/tag to do then they set up the machine and run all 10 lets say data plates, then change machine over and run 10 engine tags, then change it again and run 10 of whatever else they have, thus the seemingly long time involved to make reproduction paltes/tags

Pistons are going in the scrap bin on Friday 9/19/08

There was an individual I think on Ebay who claimed to be makeing a 100% accurate reproduction of the K code rear end housings, it was a while back, and I don't remember what the price was.

I wonder what a nice restored original unit is worth with 3rd member??

Most of the correct ones have used a red that looks to me like red oxide primer, but I don't think it is really primer.

This is absolutely great news for those of you that have Kars built from October 1964 to March 1965!!!

What do I do with my JULY 1965 Dearborn Kar?--is this easier to do with reporduction parts than the earlier exhaust? and what about the GT trumpets? how far should they stick through the trim rings? many I've seen at the shows are seemingly too far out and some are barely flush with the rings, I have a copy of the original dealer brochure that shows them out quite a bit.

RDS, I think you'd be ok with either wheel.

As Charles pointed out it just depends on what a particular assembly plant had when it came time to put the wheels on.

I understand that a way less number of cars actually got styled steel wheels at the factory.

My Kar is Black, built July 27th, 1965, so I am going to seek out the dark charcoal wheels as I think they will complement my car the best.

Are the original radiators 2 row? and can a 3 row be used with the original fan shroud w/o modifications?

Fred, Thanks Again!! I was about to make a big mistake and buy a 6 cylinder rad just because I saw it had no provisions for cooling lines.

Charles, You do have a point there!! anything was possible back in the day with Ford.

Acording to "Paul" at Scott Drake my KAR should have the Charcoal painted wheels, he says that the SCOTT DRAKE wheels carry pn#C5ZZ-1007-A for the Charcoal, and C5ZZ-1007-ARG for the Argent, so all I have to do now is get someone at a Mustang supply house to phsycally go and check the box and see what they have in stock, I sure don't want to spend the money on the wrong wheels!

Thanks Fred!! This helps!! Does anyone know when the Argent centers stopped and the Black centers started? I still think my July 1965 should have the Black??

OK, Thanks!! I have a line on an original radiator for manual trans. application (not sure yet if its a HIPO or not)and being is how I don't have anything to compair with here, can someone tell me where the hose outlets are located:(I think that the upper is on passenger side, and lower is on drivers side??)am I right?? I think I can get this rad cheap and have it re-cored with a quality core and be OK without breaking the bank.

I need a radiator for my 1965 K Convertible.

IF I wern't concerned about "numbers" (and without going to a cheapo auto parts chain store)where can I get a quality correct looking radiator like Modine may be?--I understand that the trans cooler line fittings can be removed and welded up to make the bottom tank look more correct.

My July 1965 Dearborn "K" will need wheels soon.

I want to be sure I am understanding exactly which reproduction wheels I need to get.

I BELIEVE that I need 14X5 with CHARCOAL/BLACK painted center area, with the simulated rivits-I consider my Kar a LATE 1965 and don't think the wheels with the ARGENT/SILVER painted center area are correct.

Also, I have been advised by my restorer that to be concours correct I need to get the lug nuts with the point on them, and NOT the cheaper flat ones??

Who has the best wheel thats made in the US for the money??

the Scott Drake wheels are advertisted in several catalogs to be US made?? suggestions??

I'm guessing I struck a nerve--the wrong nerve--I certainly wasn't bad-mouthing Marti, I have heard nothing but GOOD about him & his business! (sorry)

I have got all 8 original pistons from my 1965 289 HIPO engine with the pins.

I had to have the original block bored .030 and therefore had to buy new pistons.

The original pistons still have the original rings on them and I haven't cleaned them up, but look OK to me, if anyone needs/wants them I'll take $50.00 plus shipping for them.

I have got 8 ORIGINAL std bore pistons with pins from my '65 289 HP engine, these are the originals from the engine with about 150K miles on them, I have not cleaned them up but they look ok to me, I had to have my original block bored .030 and got new pistons, I would like $50.00 plus shipping for the 8 pistons with pins.

SOLS for $880.00!!!!!!!!!!

BoS I'd say your glass is right in there!!