Posts by 6hypo5conv_old

OK, So regardless of what year switch it is it still works the same way in that UP is ON and DOWN is OFF??

Thanks Jim & Fred!!!

Not really sure what happened.....he mentioned the proportioning valve and master cylinder verbally as I picked up my car, but the rest of this stuff was very shocking to read in a letter.....

Jim, This is good info!! Thanks!! I am going to remove the LH mirror and take a look......can you please tell me how to remove it?? looks like there are 2 screwa?? 1 looks like I'd need to use an ofset phillips screwdriver?? or does the mirror head come off by itself first?? please excuse my ignorence but I have never operated on these mirrors before.Rick

Am I on the right track here?? the area inside the strap doesn't look big enough for both hoses....

This is, I believe a '66 type switch as it is a reproduction....were the '65s the other way??

I have been advised by my restorer that my newly restored to concours trailered specs 1965 K GT Convertible's:Strut washers could break, control arm bolts could fail, and tie-rod sleeves could fail, plus the already mentioned in a previous post the disc brake proportioning valve and master cylinder could fail.

With all this (execpt the brake part)being brought to my attention after my car was completed and home I am scared to really even back it out of the trailer.....any suggestions or comments?

Which way is on , which way is off?? I remember my original can back in 1973 having the switch pushed down to turn on, and pulled up to turn off.....

My reproduction remote deluxe mirror on the drivers side and its non-remote mate on the passenger side were supoesedly installed using the template (which I don't have)and from where they are mounted the vent windows hit them and will not open, my restorer seems to feel that the reproduction mirrors are thicker (the actual mirror head)than the originals and the template IS copied from the originals-I'm thinking I can move both of my mirrors back towards the rear of the car about 1/2" so the vent window will clear and I can see in the mirror better???

It has been pointed out that BOTH hoses should go through the hanger on my '65 Dearborn HIPO.My thought is that standard 289s would have had an automatic choke and 1 heater hose would have laid in the saddle provided for it along side of the choke cap, my thinking baised on this is that on the HIPO that 1 should go through the strap and 1 should not.......

http://www.tonysautoclassics.com

Tony gets $185. for the DELUXE kit with the metal back-its not a problem with the grain being correct its just that who ever installed the cheapo kit without the metal backing in my car didn't seem to have the patience to clean the surface well before trying it and evedentally made some (unnessary) cuts to it-looks like crap!

Thats why I am looking into Tony's product unless someone knows where I can get it cheaper.

I have recently found out that there is a DELUXE woodgrain kit (with a thin metal backing-like originals) available.

The cheapo woodgrain kit that is just the vinyl has not worked out very well on my newly restored car, and I am wondering if anyone has any experiance with the more expensive DELUXE kit that IS available from Tony's Classics??-BTW they also make the kit for the instrument bezel and glove box door.

I'll check through mine & see if I've got one & advise.

I'll bet they have some way to monitor how many people go back to the original version and may be if enough people go back that they will re-think their move.

I'll snap a pic soon, the right one seems to fit real well and line up well, ect, the left one does not, it looks actually narrower than the right one, is there a way to "adjust" it by looseing the screws?

Is there a difference between original headlight doors from say 1964.5 to 1965 to 1966 in size? My right one seems to fit rather well and lines up perfectly with the fender and hood while the left one looks "short" and leaves a gap between the fender and hood, both were bought used and I have no idea if they came from the same car or not.

I too sent them an email telling them about my dislike of their new format, and that they were making a big mistake!!

Guys, Thanks for the great replies! I will keep watch of my valve, so bottom line if my pedal feels solid and I see no external leaking its ok?

What about the disc brake master cylinder?? is there much trouble "in the feild" with these failing? (a new reproduction)

The first one that my restorer put on was defective out of the box and acording to him wouldn't pump fluid.....

I am being advised by my restorer that I should not drive my car very far with the NEWLY REBUILT ORIGINAL disc brake proportioning valve installed due to the fact that it is not reliable, I was supplied an aftermarket valve in the glove box.....

Has anyone experianced failure with one of these valves correctly rebuilt??