Posts by Beagle1_old

    Mine has 8 sleeves in it, it was sitting outside for 15 years when my Dad discovered (the original VIN engine for my Kar). As I had 8 NOS std. bore piston and rod assemblies to install in it, we went std. bore.


    [Blocked Image: http://home.comcast.net/~ruspen/Pics/a289_NOS_Piston_Rod_2.JPG]


    It was then all squared back up and decked afterward.


    If you would like to sleeve a block and you are in Michigan get a hold of me. I can set you up with my cousin who's machine shop did all the work on my engine, including resurrecting rotted out heads. Probably the best price. He is now located in Westland, MI for reference.


    Regrets? My cousin's place used sleeves a little harder than I would have liked. Ring seating is taking a while, but leak down is slowly coming down. And I can fell it as the rings seat. Oil usage dropped drastically too.


    If I was to do it again, I would opt for a softer sleeve. What they used are for 150,000 mile daily engines. Not 1500 mile a year cruisers.

    Quote from cobrajeff

    I have personally seen this car, and also Lee Iacocca's red fastback, as they have been in the Detroit area for a long time. Unfortunately, it was thirty years ago, and I didn't have a camera with me when I inspected either one of them. They both had real leather seats (instead of vinyl) and options that were never offered on '65-66 Mustangs (like Cruise Control, leather seats, etc., etc.).


    regards,


    Jeff


    Iacocca's is still sitting in my cousin's garage as I type this. Not sure what he's going to do with it. Needs a fresh restoration, as the one that was completed by my uncle 30+ years ago is tired.


    I believe Mustang Monthly contacted him about a follow up article to the one they did 20 years ago.

    Hey I wrapped my 1st Mustang around a tree too! :thumbdown:


    65 (real) GT Fastback A-code. 1 week to the hour of my 16th birthday. Owned it for 2 years, working on it and getting it ready, totalled it in a week. Still haven't lived it down either 20+ years later.


    WELCOME!

    Quote

    WOW!!


    Gheez...I have about 10 NOS sets my Dad picked up over the years. Plenty unopened. He gave them to me with the Kar. I use one set for Ford only shows, otherwise, they sit on the shelf. Where they will stay indefinitely it appears. Not selling out to the fleabay dealers.

    Quote from SJ65K

    "NOM" means......Not Original Motor.


    Do you ever stop to think that maybe the owner of the car you are calling "ugly" is reading your post? It has happened in the past.:P


    NOM...got it. I am not up on used car lingo.


    I fixed my post too...thanks for pointing it out, yes, it was bad choice of words. :thumbdown:

    Seems odd. No bidders have asked if the block is the original or if it was replaced with the "new" engine.


    Talk about "That 70's Show" LOL. Complete with flares and the less attractive (IMO) tail lights I see to often.


    Someone has a lot of work ahead of them =O

    Good one Marv,


    Here's a couple Flathead V8-60 clips for you. This is an engine my Dad built for a Vintage Hydroplane.


    http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v465/ba…nt=MVI_0900.flv


    http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v465/ba…nt=MVI_0898.flv


    Engine has:


    Ported and relieved

    Jahns .030 pistons

    Claysmith B-3 cam

    Harmons & Collins Mag 25º advance

    Eddie Meyer heads and intake, two Strombergs 81's on gas


    I have since purchased an engine hot test stand for him to do that stuff on. Old dudes...what are you going to do with them? When he was 18 he'd fire them in the bedroom of his Dad's house during the winter to prepare for next summer. I bet a house full of Methanol fumes was not good.

    Call these guys:


    http://www.hosenow.com/opening.htm


    The owner used to race high performance 289 Falcons years ago. They are fantastic people and very helpful with problem solving.


    I think a couple elbows of hose and a run of stainless 2" tube with bead rolls will be your answer. The a bracket to support the stainless run. There are current model cars with a bracket that would probably work that could be bolted to existing holes in the horse collar.

    Here's the listing before anyone looks for it:


    http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5750


    He stated the numbers matched? Were there not VIN stampings on the block and trans? That is for the buyer to determine IMO.


    I searched this guys profile and he also had a coupe up for sale with the wrong engine and needing floor pans. Something doesn't smell right to me.


    Here on from 12/7/05:


    http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…SearchTerms=for


    Same Kar, 3/2/06 for $1000 less:


    http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp…SearchTerms=for

    You don't need to go Snap On for home use. Heck, 10 years at a Ford dealer on flat rate and I never owned anything but a Craftsman box, and I made good money.


    It's better to spend the extra cash on Snap On, MAC or Matco tools to put IN THE BOX.


    Look for something with ball bearing slides and lift latch draws. Where you have to lift the drawer lip to unlock and open the drawer. Some of the lower cost Sears with ball bearings use a plastic pinch type thing to hold the drawers shut, and those wear out on the drawers you use alot. The Professional series at Sears is good, but gets up there in price.


    Waterloo makes a decent box for what you want to do. Toolwarehouse.net has great deals too.


    With ball bearing slides, get the good no slip draw liners, otherwise all your tools will end up at the back of the drawers when you close a drawer a little to hard. They look like miniture stretch wire and are rubber. But don't buy them from the tool place, by them from a home improvement store in the kitchen section. Much cheaper and you can get colors if you'd like.

    I would have to say the cowl braces were removed as you assume.


    When I had the pic all blown up trying to read the VIN, I noticed one thing.


    The exhaust manifolds have been off and are now gasketed. Also the metal tabs are gone from the manifold bolts.


    It appears the Buck Tag is there, but it also appears there is a screen in front of the radiator. Or am I nuts once again?


    Also has a Petronix, way to many wires from the coil to the distributor. And an aftermarket coil. Bad yellow top in 10k?


    Someone didn't do the glass hood pins properly either. You should remove the bumpers and install the pins there, that's how Shelby did it, so that's what I did on mine. Not DRILL NEW HOLES in the horse collar to install the hood pins. Lot easier to un-do it the other

    way.


    It has a Cobra T-Pan on it too.


    65 GT Instrument Cluster, not a proper standard 65. So at what point was that changed? 10,000 miles ago LOL. How many were on the old cluster?


    Carb looks replaced or restored. Rh side linkage is replated, and I don't recall 65's having a fuel filter at the carb, only at the pump. I thought the carb had a direct fitting to the rubber hose in 65.


    10,000 miles or not, seems like there is an aweful lot of new parts under the hood. That or this Kar was stored in a vacuum away from any moisture or elements. But why the Petronix if it has 10k original?


    One more thing. Did red kars get the body seam painted? I don't know which colors did. I know they were the lighter colors, but how light?


    Sure is a nice looking Kar though. Not that I wouldn't want it. Just suspicious as always.

    Welcome! I can not believe your screen ID wasn't taken?


    For pics you have to up load to a host, then include the URL path for the pic to display. The HTML tags for it appear when you select the yellow button when posting that is to the right of the "outlook" button.


    Somewhere on here is a How-To.

    Quote from round2K

    Duly and humbly noted. I was so busy trying to read the VIN from the pics I missed the obvious. Could you use a bigger font to point that out next time? (Just kidding.)


    Sorry, nothing meant by that, more have a dig at myself. I was just happy when I found it at the bottom, but while I was screwing around with the pic trying to make out the VIN just like you, RacCol had already found it :S I was still posting and he was done.


    Sometimes I can't see the forest for the trees :thumbdown:

    Wow, if this Kar is legit, I bet it has an interesting history.


    Appears someone wanted a GT350 and couldn't afford it. Tried to blow up and figure out the VIN, but the 2nd and last digits are blurry.


    So far I have 1?339?.


    Then I read down at the bottom of the listing looking for more pics and there it was :blush:


    5T09K163393

    Center carb List # 2881 Ford Part# C5AF-9510-U, outer carbs, List #2881, Ford C5AF-9510-V.


    Buddy Bar Casting on the bottom of the intake. Have a look around the site above. Lots of good pics with all this info I just mentioned.


    For the linkage adjustments and jetting...get the book I gave you the link to above. I can not begin to tell you the amount of grief it will save you.


    If your linkage is hacked up or damaged, Blue Thunder direct or through Carl's Ford Parts has reproductions. Pony may also, but I would have to assume only one place makes it, everyone else sells it. I would think Thunder is the main source for that particular item in this case.


    I was setting the linkage how I "thought" it should work progressively (based on past Flathead experience with Strombergs). Well I was wrong, and it ran horrible. Mr. Brattland told me how to set it up before I got his book, but after I ordered it.


    Last summer I ran into an older fella that used to work at Dearborn Steel Tubing where the Ford 8v and 6v set ups were developed. Interesting conversation to say the least, as he was also there for the T-Bolt buildings.