Posts by Beagle1_old

Available AFTER June 17, 2007. Can be seen on the Kar running and driving up until then. Will be at Milan, Michigan NMRA Car Show June 16 & 17.

Complete Tri Power Set Up, orignal Buddy Bar casting, original air cleaner assy.

Carbs are genuine FoMoCo issue Holley 2bbl. BUT: (please read closely). They are not the proper List Numbers for a 289 Tri Power set up. The middle carb is from a 390 Tri Power and the outer 2 are from a 260 Tri Power. I have located a proper center carb, and the person is willing to trade the 390 carb & a some cash for the proper one.

I have not bothered as the set up works flawlessly as is on a stock 289 K engine. I spent many weeks and multiple carb on/off afternoons jetting and tuning. It is now dialed in perfected. Great MPG on the highway with the center carb also. Custom fabricated choke linkage to allow use of factory manual cable in the proper position.

This set up was completely bench detailed prior to installing in the engine. Carbs HAVE NOT been replated, but still look great.

If a Mustang owner buys this, the Monte Carlo Brace and Fuel Line from the pump will be included. I'll add the Cobra Valve Covers for a small price also.

Asking $1650 + shipping. I know, you can find plenty on ebay for less sometimes. But I guarantee function and driveability of this one. I can even take you for a ride if you'd like in the Kar before it is removed. Most ebay ones will require an added cost of gaskets, jets and repairs from 40+ years of being hacked up by previous owners.

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This won't help your 3.50 rear end + RPM = What MPG question,

But for comparisons sake, my 3.91 gear 4spd with 235/60/15 (26.1" tall) radials on TTD 15" wheels turns 3525RPM @ ~70 MPH. I am at about 3020 RPM @ 60mph and can get about 17 MPG with the center carb on the Tri-Power if I keep out of it. But it's hard to do.

I have only owned one other vehicle that pulled so hard from 50-100 MPH without downshifting. And that was a 2.3L Turbocharged Ranger Pick Up. I am thoroughly impressed with the flat out torque and pull of this K engine from 50-80 mph and how smooth it continues to 100. Doesn't really feel like a soon to be 42 year old car.

The car was sort of a slouch with the 3.50 gear due to my taller tires I think. With my tires and a 3.50 gear it only turned 2700 RPM at 60mph and 3100 at 70 mph. Just seems happier with the 3.91 and these tires. When I go back to the stock size next month on the SSW I may have to put the 3.50 back in.

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That would be me Mario that suggested the trans mount! <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

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GOOD JOB! I know it wasn't me at the time.

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These engines seem to have a harmonic at certain rpms (probabley differant on every engine due to differing balancing) that just might be enough vibrate an old trans mount.

Let us know what you find,

Mario

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You're very correct Mario. I remember when you had your problem and we were communicating about it.

MOST V-8 engines will have their worst chance of a vibration at peak torque. That is where the 4th order Torsional Vibration is the greatest. This is the vibration that a crankshaft damper was designed to dampen out. Many times there can be a 2nd mode of torsionals, where the vibration returns higher up the RPM range and where the damper wasn't designed to function. This won't occur on otherwise stock engines, usually built up ones. If held there very long (circle track racing) things usually break, like the crankshaft. FoMoCo's spec for crankshaft torsionals is .25º Peak to Peak Double Amplitude. Which means from front to back the crank can twist a qtr. degree max either side of zero. This is why some of the places that rebuild dampers worry me. If it's a trailer queen or a car that only turns 3000 RPM occasionally, no biggie. But if you are going to go road racing with a geniune K engine and had the damper rebuilt I would shelve it for a Fluid Damper, etc. Crank Damper are engineered with certain inertia and rubber durometer to cancel the frequency that is generated by the torsionals.

Anyhow, enough of that....Mario nailed the trans mount thing. I just did my clutch and didn't let the mount fall "natural" onto the cross member before tightening it. Now I have a terrible vibration at 3500 RPM at ANY SPEED. I know its the trans mount because I can float the vibration out and cruise normal, an imbalance would not go away like that. Once I get back on the gas and back off it returns until I play with the throttle again. Today I am going to get under the Kar, loosen the mount, rev the motor a little and retighten it.

I know it's the mount because I had a helper not let the jack back down to the cross member before he tightened the bolts. More or less he pulled the mount to the cross member about an 1/8". Heck, he may have even tore the mount and I'll end up replacing it.

Thanks Dave, that's the size I was lookin' at.

Your Kar does look great, I did see it the other day on the forum.

I am in the process of taking my Kar back to stock appearance over the next couple weeks.

Removing the Tear Drop Hood, the Torque Thrust Wheels, the Sun SST802 Tach, the Moto Lita Wood Steering Wheel, the Cobra Valve Covers and the Tri Power. All those parts will be sold off before the car is put up on the market.

Anyhow, in putting the stock Steel Wheels back on I want to install radial tires, not US Royal bias ply. The car isn't concours, so it may as well ride & handle well.

I just am not sure which size to purchase that will look/fit the best in a Metric tire size <img src=images/icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle>

Edited by - SixT5HiPo on 06/06/2007 20:19:53

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It may have been a show car but (in my opinion) it has Arvinode muffler hangers, a '67 style transverse exhaust ('64 resonators weren't glasspack type), and the rear underside is painted solid body color. Nice car though.

I also noticed that the coil spring cover bolts on this car, as well as a few others we've looked at, stick into the engine compartment. Did some come that way or are they supposed to have their heads in the engine compartment and stick through into the wheel well?

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My GENUINE from 1964 FoMoCo blueprint drawings describe the bolts installing from the inside (in the wheel well) and the nuts being under the hood. The body shop installed mine backwards (to my drawings) and I turned them around. To be honest, when checking compression, my knuckles would rather have them the other way. My Dad siad it doesn't really matter what the book shows, when they were building them who knows what happened. I bet Charles has seen them both ways on unrestored Kars.

FWIW, my blueprint drawings are just the same thing as the Build Books you can buy at NPD, just 3X larger with more detailed call outs. My Dad's buddy gave them to me when he retired from FoMoCo, he had them in his office all these years <img src=images/icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>

That is pretty Kool!

Glad you found him! <img src=images/icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle>

You're missing some digits there?

Is it C5AE-6015-? on the block, then 6B9 on what looked like a tag screwed in the mold? The 6B9 would be a Feb 9 1966 casting date. The block is just a 289 block, you have to look for more details to see if it's a real HiPo block.

I doubt you will be able to find data for thickness, but most likely you can for Maximum Overbore. Moneymaker would probably have the most knowledge on this. I'm willing to bet even the service manual does.

Mine had to have 8 sleeves put in because it sat outside uncovered for 10 years and some cylinders were filled with water.

3 years now and it's been fine. Took a while for the rings to seat due to the hardness of the sleeves.

My Dad has had many a flathead break through at .060" OVERBORE and some go .120" no problem. Could be you had a thin casting?

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I have used the Ford engine paint kit from POR-15. So far I have used the kit on three engines, the oldest done four years ago. It still looks perfect and does not fade, stain or rust through like other brands. I actually brushed the paint on the block and it looks great. It can be thinned if you want to shoot it. I have used other major rattle can brands, but they just don't hold up.

http://www.porcan.com/usa/enginepaint.asp

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Definitely for the long term or cars driven a lot, non-spray bomb engine paint jobs hold up a lot better. Especially if you develop a coolant leak. It will stain or destroy 99% of spray bomb paint jobs.

On my cousin's show cars he has the body color mixed up in small quanities as a high heat paint for his engine blocks. I have seen some 10 years old that you can still wax up (he sometimes deburrs the block surface too).

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I have seen them and I think they are great.

(To this day there are great Ford products in Australia that are not available in North America.)

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The current Falcon with the 4.0L DOHC Turbo engine is AWESOME!!! I had one to drive for a few days and it was a riot. 14 sec, 25mpg, 4dr family car that looked cool too.

If FoMoCo would get those Aussie cars to meet US crash tests maybe they could make a profit in the US again?

Has the bottom fell out that bad on the values or did a deal get made "off-line".

Seems bidding never go to high for a K Fastback. Heck, I've seen C-code fastbacks go for that much.

In all honesty I get no pleasure from the Kar. It's slow (by today's standards), hot and I have to constantly worry about the idiots on the road when I drive it.

If it wasn't a K I wouldn't care so much. But it's not like I can run out and buy NOS body parts if it got smashed. I am not going to let it sit in the garage except for the occasional 5 mile ride. I have car show burn out, and I sold the enclosed trailer and the F250 two vehicle.

My interests have changed. I want to find a used up 2005 or 2006 Mustang and give it 600 rwhp. Tear it completely apart and start from scratch. My employer manufactuers one of the best 4.6L Supercharger kits, and the cost is right for me. Then I can go 10.5 in the 1/4, with a CD player and A/C. Get 22 mpg and not worry if I get hit by a ding bat on a cell phone.

I also put my 2006 Harley on ebay tonight. I am having a reverse mid-life crisis. I have sold EVERYTHING I had. Down to a 2001 Mountaineer and my wife's 07 GT. Funny, when I sold everything last fall I didn't know I'd lose my job in November and not find work until March. So it all worked out.

I haven't "officially" listed the Kar anywhere yet. I want to talk to my father and give him a chance to buy it first. I surely can't sell it for what I got it for after the thousands I put into it, but I can give him a break even deal.

WOW Mark! Your mess is much worse than mine. Yours can ruin the underhood paint quickly.

Mine's back on the road...new Center Force Clutch, machined the flywheel, also installed new axle bearings since it was up in the air.

Left the Cobra Scattershield off to sell and putting For Sale signs in the Kar this Sunday at the Shelby Show at Ford WHQ.

Received an e-mail from the show host asking to use my Kar.

They made it the dash plaque and advertising poster car. Pretty surprised by it, but it's neat to see.

http://www.preamprod.com/ssas/

Check the bushing in your tailshaft housing and the slip yoke on the driveshaft. Most K codes (and about any 40 year old car), either restored and unrestored, never get these items changed, and they are only good for about 75k miles on a manual trans car that got beat on in it's early days.

While the shaft is out, get it checked for strightness and balance. Best $120 I spent on the Kar. Made it like new. ($20 for the yoke, $100 for the shaft work).

I also chased a vibration for a whole summer. Never stopped to think about the yoke and bushing until I took the shaft in to get balanced and the guy said he wouldn't touch it unless I brought him a new yoke. It was actually hour glass shaped, but you couldn't see it with the naked eye. He mic'd it and showed me the taper/out of round.

So I went home, pulled the output seal and bushing. BINGO! Bushing was wasted. Installed the new stuff and it is smooth as silk up to 100mph.

After almost getting creamed on the highway on my Harley I decided to get the K out for the 1st drive of the spring. Wanted to take it to work tomorrow for all the gearheads to see it (and one possibly wants to buy it).

But as luck would have it, 3 miles into my drive it wouldn't come out of gear. Had to nurse it home and park it. To po'd to diagnois it tonight. It feels like either some friction material came off the disc or a finger broke on the NOS Pressure Plate. Everything still is attached, nothing is bent, and all the linkage is moving full travel up, but not all the way down, so the clutch isn't releasing.

So...time for a modern technology upgrade to a diaphragm clutch. I've had it with the 3 finger. I get in my wife's 2007 GT California Special and stall it every time since I am used to the old stuff.

I wasn't even driving it hard, just putt putt'ing around. Well, watch for a COBRA scattershield on ebay. May as well put the stock bellhousing back in, if I decide to sell it I won't get that money out of it, or the tri-power cost. So that will be the next thing changed back to stock.

And to think I didn't know what I was going to do with my long weekend <img src=images/icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle>

Bob, I will never know why mine came out. My Dad installed them, and he's been building engine for 40+ years. Serious race engines too.

They were staked and sealed also. Just one of those things I guess.

Thanks for the clarification on the TSB.

If memory serves me correctly, in Bob's book is a copy of a TSB that was to install screw in plugs for loss of oil pressure complaints. I believe the TSB was dated sometime in 1967.

Personally, they should have came with screw in plugs. I never posted it on this site, as I was to ticked off at the time. But the FIRST TIME OUT OF THE GARAGE with my K-coupe I lost oil pressure.

8 hrs later it was fixed (very nerve racking on a just completed Kar), but it was a lot of work doing it in the vehicle. On my maiden voyage all 3 front plugs popped out. I DID NOT do the block prep work, and should have installed screw in plugs prior to assembly, but the press in ones were staked and had Loc-Tite on them. So now they are all screw in plugs.

I retrieved the plugs out of the oil pan a couple weeks later when I took the pan off to check the lower end after driving it for a hundred or so miles.

Bob, thanks for the effort of your books, and for joining the site. .