Posts by LuvKcodes_old

    I've dug out some old parts and been selling them off, mostly to friends. I have a few miscellaneous Mustang parts.


    Fender (driver's side). I don't know if it's off a 1965 or 1966 car. Date code is 4 83 which I think means April but don't know which year. If anyone can decipher this date code and how to tell the year, let me know so I can pass it on. Seems like every date code I see on sheet metal has a different format. Fender is straight, has original paint on it, a couple of small holes near bottom where rust has been cleaned off but not repaired. I can take a pic and email if anyone is interested.


    I also have the rear bumper off the same car. Do bumpers have date codes? I've never looked on one to see. It's straight and nice but will need to be re-chromed. I have more parts off this car, someone stripped it many years ago and I bought the parts but don't remember what year or body style the car was. The rest of the stuff is stashed in storage, I'll get the rest out and list it eventually so if you're looking for something with the dates around the fender's date... whatever that is... let me know.


    Two "vintage style seatbelt-blue" made by Beam's of Oklahoma, bought from California Mustang, their part #46-3431B (cost $29.95 ea), They have chrome buckles. Also the two std duty hardware kits, Calif Mustang part #46-std (cost $5.95 ea) to bolt them down. They are new, never installed, still in wrapping.


    If you're interested in any of this, email me.


    Edited by - LuvKcodes on 06/04/2007 10:44:58

    I remember seeing Mel Gibson interviewed on some TV show awhile back and he said he wouldn't be in another Mad Max or Lethal Weapon movie. Apparently George Miller, the Mad Max director, is sill planning another Mad Max but has said Mel is "too old" so he'll have to find another lead. Gibson is pretty busy with his own projects anyway.


    [/quote]


    There's stories going around that a new Mad Max movie is going to be made. Anyone hear any info on this?


    Regards,


    René

    [/quote]

    I think I saw this car on "Mad Max."


    I'm not sure but maybe they did use one for the movie?


    I've seen this one at the Imperial Palace Auto Collection. It's an interesting car. The "Collection's" cars are mostly on consignment and very high asking prices, I think they double whatever the owner wants for it and ask that. I don't know what a reasonable price for this car might be.


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    Hi all.


    This isn't a Mustang. It's our version of a muscle car. Ford Australia Falcon GT (replica) Coupe. Any of you guys seen these things over there in the US?


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    Edited by - LuvKcodes on 06/04/2007 10:50:41

    Very good post. Maybe some guys are unaware that a resto-mod car, which is in most cases just a nicer word for rebody, can and often does sell for FAR more than a nicely restored to original Mustang... even a K code. These car builders really don't care what the VIN on the car is although a K might be valued over a C, for example.


    I'm not a resto-mod kind of car guy. I'm an original car lover... the more original and untouched the better. My next priority is a car nicely restored to original. It doesn't necessarily have to be 100 percent authentically restored... just within reason.


    Carroll Shelby signs anything for a donation to his charity. He's getting the money for the charity in return for his signature... he's not authenticating anything by signing it.


    There are already SOOO many rebuilt, rebodied, resto-mod cars out there that it can't be stopped. It's the direction of the car hobby since the high dollar value cars cannot be touched by the average enthusiast. A guy can build a more-or-less Shelby look-alike in his garage, with many more modifications than were available to Shelby at the time, for a fraction of the cost of an authentic Shelby. Does anyone think there is a problem with this? I don't think so. So there is no problem with building a K code by doing a rebody either.


    Surely we all realize that anyone with any expertise at all can determine for the most part just what is original about a car and what isn't. From there, each individual will have to decide what a car is worth to him. One guy has to have the totally original, faithfully restored K code. Another guy will be happy with a rebodied Kar for less money. So what's the problem. It happens and it's going to keep on happening.


    I agree that since we have no control or right to tell a person how to restore, rebody or resto-mod his car... we might as well just accept it. Many of us will reject cars that do not meet our standards and consider them not worthy of being a real K code Mustang. That's fine and as it should be. A K code IS a K code... it's not anything else no matter how you mix it up. But there has to be a place for the rest... they are valued and valuable and they are what they are.


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    I would have to guess that most of you guys on this site have NOT watched Barret Jackson Auctions?

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    In a perfect world, there would be no rebuilt/rebodied collector cars. When a car got old and collectible, it would be restored. But if the car was damaged beyond normal repair, it would go to the crusher and that would be the end of it. So every rare and valuable collector car would be an "honest" car bearing most of the original sheet metal at the very least with only worn out parts replaced. Collector car buyers would be assured that the car they were buying was genuine, not rebuilt/rebodied.


    But in the real world, as time goes on and restorable collector cars become more valuable and scarce, enthusiasts are going to resort to whatever means they can to put together a car. Actually, they have been doing that for many years. It's a fact that cars get wrecked, wear out and rust away. There is less and less to work with as time goes on.


    In the case of Mustangs, there is a big variance in the quantities and therefor the rarity and value of various models. A 1965 Mustang fastback is essentially all the same car but, depending on drive-train, options and modifications, became a T, C, A, K or Shelby. The Shelby is a K with bolt-on modifications. Many of these items were made available thru Ford dealers and owners put them on their own Mustangs. Because of rarity, desirability, how fast it goes, etc... the Shelby has become very expensive. The K is next in rarity and value followed by the A, C and T. There are probably several hundred thousand early Mustangs remaining in some condition. But only a few thousand Shelbys and K codes. Demand is greater than supply so prices continue to escalate. Most Mustangs have been greatly modified over the years so few genuine original cars exist.


    Now, out in your back-forty you have some old Mustang hulks. One of them is what's left of a badly damaged and rusted out K fastback. The rest are T, C or A code relics. You'd like to have a restored Mustang to cruise in... not a perfect show car but a nice car. The K code frame and sheet metal is mostly worse than some of the other cars. You could send what's left of the K code to the crusher and restore the best of what's left which happens to be a C code 289 which has a pretty decent body and is mostly complete needing some work but very restorable.


    OK, if you had to make the decision, would you forever destroy the K code? Or would you remove whatever you could from the K code and combine it with the donor car and turn it into the K code using the K vin stamped inner fenders and title to document it as a K? If you restore the car as a K it will be worth at least twice what it would be worth as a C and probably not cost appreciably more. If your restoration is reasonably faithful you will be putting a rare, collectible K code back on the street. If you restore the car as a C code... who cares? There are thousands of them.


    It really doesn't matter what you or I would do because plenty of these decisions have already been made by other folks and many more will be made and there will be at least a few more rebodied K codes and Shelbys returned to the road.


    Personally, I don't care what other people decide to do with their cars... restore, rebuild, rebody... whatever... it's their car. I would prefer to buy an "honest" car though, as I'm sure most people would. But the rebodied car also has a market and a value. If the price is right, a rebodied car can make someone a good looking K code driver. Most likely it would never be a show car and that's as it should be. So what's the problem? That someone, not knowing better, would pay too much for what the car is worth? Is that really possible or likely? A person pays what he thinks the car is worth and probably won't pay more than the car could be resold for a couple of years later considering that the value of K codes should continue to rise. I have a hard time understanding what the harm is here? So there are a few more Shelbys and K codes on the road and they aren't totally original or even mostly original... so what? There are already tons of them, I see them at every car show identified as "Hipo" or "Shelby" and they might resemble a K code or Shelby but they never will be. Anyone interested in buying an original K code or Shelby would get educated enough to know they what they are buying. Most people would not intentionally misrepresent or try to defraud anyone anyway.


    Edited by - LuvKcodes on 05/10/2007 16:58:43

    Rebuilding a totaled car is certainly not fraud. There are millions of cars on the road today that have been rebuilt. If you've never seen the inside of a rebuilder's shop, you ought to see what some of the cars look like when they start. They are truly "totaled," not just wrecked. You would be astounded at the amount of work some cars take to rebuild. They often take them right down to the frame and start over, even straightening the frame or replacing it. SOME, and only some of these cars will have a title branded rebuilt/restored. Most rebuilders will sell the car as a rebuilt car and not pass it off as original. But what happens in subsequent sales is "buyer beware," if the title is not branded.


    I can't imagine the incense people exhibit when they surely must realize that most collector cars have been restored... just a nicer word for rebuilt. Are you telling me you haven't seen some of the totally rusted out junk remains of valuable collector cars sold on ebay? What do you think rebuilder/restorers are going to do with those things? Restore and put them back on the road of course.


    An example I know the facts of is... an almost brand new Escalade was hit in the front and the frame badly damaged as well as the entire front end wiped out. The insurance company decided to rebuild the $50,000 car rather than total it. A new frame, motor and all front end parts were obtained from Cadillac. Everything else was stripped off the wrecked car and put on the new frame. Because the car was not totalled, it was not considered rebuilt, therefore the title was not branded. The owner got the car back and the insurance company paid the $25,000 or so bill. Is this materially any different than what is described about the Kar in question... no, I don't think so. And it certainly is not fraud.


    Let's take an extreme example. Suppose a guy has what's left of a Hemi Barracuda convertible that has practically nothing left but does have the title and data plate. Consider that a complete one may be worth say a million dollars. He buys a donor car and a scrounges up a whole lot of parts and as faithfully as possible rebuilds the car. Are you saying this is fraud? Wrong. It is in fact, a rebuilt Hemi Barracuda. Is it the same as or as valuable as an all original car? No, of course not. An honest seller would represent the car just as it is... restored... and the buyer would have the responsibility to determine just what the extent of that was and determine what the value to him is. What is this car worth? Who knows? The market place will determine that.


    Now where the fraud part could come in is if the seller, any seller who knows he is misrepresenting the car, represents to a buyer that the car is something it is not. If a seller stated to a buyer that the car was all original sheet metal, the odometer was the original low mileage, all matching numbers or it was a one-owner never wrecked car... that sort of thing... that's misrepresentation which is fraud... if you can prove it in court, which is difficult.


    I vote for taking the K inner fender and title, a donor Mustang... or a couple if necessary, scrounge up all the original K parts possible... hopefully a genuine K vin motor and trans and rebuild/restore the car.... exactly as proposed. And I see NOTHING wrong with it. That puts a rare and historically important K Mustang back on the road for someone to enjoy. In the sake of honesty the seller should document what is known about the car and pass it on to the buyer but there is no legal requirement to do that. Certainly the seller should not misrepresent the car and should answer all questions honestly to the best of his knowledge but again... no legal requirement to do so. And don't anyone bother to get upset about this because I guarantee you that there are probably a million (a few thousands more or less) collector cars with no more pedigree than this car would have. You might even own one.


    If a buyer wants an original K Mustang rather than a restored one then he should gain the knowledge to tell the difference... it's really quite easy to tell what's been done to a car... it's virtually impossible to rebuild a car to look as good as original.

    A person should take due diligence to determine just what the car is and is not and pay accordingly.

    That's a good recommendation. I'll put a fire extinguisher in the car when I drive on oldie.


    What caused the fire, gas or wiring? I try to remember to check my cars very frequently for gas leaks. I disconnect the negative battery cable from most cars when I park them for any length of time. I've seen cars and garages burned up by wiring fires.

    It's a matter of time until the connection of the K with Shelby gets well enough known along with the rarity of the car. Then prices are going to escalate like they have with Shelbys. When enthusiasts catch on that a Shelby is a K with some bolt-ons... watch out!


    Shelbys are so expensive now that a person could take a decent K and clone it into a Shelby, and it's not hard to do, and make money on it, lots of money if it's done right. When prices for a Shelby get so high buyers will go for a cloned car for half the price... which is still way above what a K is selling for. This, of course, would only make the already rare and highly collectible K more scarce.


    There is still a lot of upside in collector cars and you'd have to think that the K Mustang is one of the best.

    That's the sort of Konvertible I'd like to find to buy. Ask them if they would sell it? Looks like it's all there with little done to it over the years.


    I don't know why my Kar doesn't have an AHOOGA horn like this one though. I've got a couple of them lying around... I'll have to put one on the K!


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    Did anyone else see this old convertible at the Cypress Gardens show back in January? My old computer was giving me fits, so I couldn't upload the photo. The older couple said they have had it for over 20 years. It could stand some cleaning, but had all the right parts.


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    Edited by - LuvKcodes on 03/28/2007 10:13:51

    Just a few comments on the subject, hope they are accurate:


    As already stated, the visibility group (remote-control driver's-door mirror, day/night inside rearview mirror, two-speed electric wipers and windshield washers, $36) and the interior decor group (pony interior, including a large number of interior upgrades, $107) were separate options and each would have had to be individually ordered to have it on any particular 1965 car.


    The visibility group and therefore, the remote control mirror was available early in 1965 production. However, the interior decor group was not available until March or April of 1965, date depending on who you believe... if anyone actually knows. Therefore, there were many 1965 Mustangs with a remote-mirror but no pony interior... ORIGINALLY that is! In fact, production numbers I've seen show that no "early 1965 (referred to as 64 1/2) and less than 10 percent of 1965 Mustangs built from September, 1964 on, had the pony interior. Surely there were many more cars with the visibility group built.


    However, as we all well know, thousands of Mustangs have been restored and "upgraded" to the pony interior in the process. But not necessarily the remote control mirror as that was NOT part of the pony interior package so may have often been overlooked. Many cars "upgraded" to the pony interior package did not get ALL the interior decor items... it has been common to do the pony seats and a couple of other items and ignore the rest when "upgrading" during restoration.


    In light of this information it is pretty tough to connect the pony interior to the remote-control mirror. Original or faithfully (if there are many of those) restored cars may have either or both and other restorations may also have either or both... but only if they have build dates after the March/April availability of the pony interior.


    What you may conclude is that there are NO "early 1965 Mustangs" legitimately with the pony interior but there are probably many with the remote-control mirror. My '65 is too early for the GT package or pony interior but it does have the visibility group.


    What you may be noticing is the "upgraded" restored cars upon which many options have been added including the pony interior and remote-control mirror.


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    Has anyone else noticed that most early (65-66) Mustangs with legitimate Deluxe (Pony) interiors have the deluxe outside remote mirror, and cars with the standard interior have the standard manual outside mirror??

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    Edited by - LuvKcodes on 03/19/2007 00:11:53

    This is a good-looking K. Anyone in the market for a FB should give it a look. It's not the best one I've seen for sale in the last couple of years and it's not the cheapest although the K's are going up in price and may really take off in the next year or two. Personally I would have to see the car (any car this expensive)before I bought it but I know that's not possible for everyone so there is some risk in relying on pics and description.


    In addition to all the pics,I called the seller. He was very open and seemed honest in all his answers to my questions. He was very willing to disclose the "faults" and describe what was done in the restoration. The Kar isn't perfect by any means but there are some nice things about it. Apparently it was in decent shape to start the restoration... hadn't been driven in about 20 years. There was prior collision damage but little rust. There were body panels that were replaced. The inner DS fender was replaced with the vins cut out of the damaged panel and welded into the replacement. Seller says this was very well done. DS door was redone and original data plate applied to replaced door. Kar was restored to original configuration.


    Kar apparently had the original engine, trans and most of the K specific parts when aquired for restoration. The trans has the vin. The block may... or it may not... seller is not certain the vin is there, that would have to be verified. To be totally correct some parts would need to be replaced, the carb for one, an expensive one. The rear end is apparently not the original.


    Interior was totally redone. The car was a different color with wrong color interior when aquired so needed everything. Interior was done to what is believed the original color scheme. Car was apparently a GT with pony interior as it is now.


    Overall, the workmanship appears to be good in most areas although there are obvious small improvements that could be made. Seller says paint is correct and nice. It does have a couple of years of light driving since restoration so not perfect.


    If the car were mine, assuming it is as good as it appears to be, I wouldn't let it go for less than $40K at this point in time. At that price no one would accuse you of stealing it but it could prove to be a very timely buy if prices continue to follow the Shelby prices higher. As far as I'm concerned, if a Shelby in similar condition is worth $150,000, a K such as this Kar is an extremely good buy. I believe the K should have a very good upside. But the value will depend on what someone is willing to pay and what others are going for.


    I'd plan on spending a few thousand on it to get it like I would want it and that's assuming that no unknown major problems turned up in an inspection.


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    Does anyone have comments on this car ? Appears to be a pretty clean exanple, but your trained eye's are much better than mine. in addition, since the seller is not disclosing the price, do you think its worth low-mid 40's ?

    Thanks...

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    Great story! Have you ever used a sniper? The sniper will place your bid with about 5 seconds left, you can set it up in advance and not worry about missing the auction close. It's cheap and works great. Try "ezsniper.com" and there are others you can find by googling for "ebay sniper." Of course, as you know, you have to bid the max you're willing to pay to ensure you outbid the competition as you did on the carb. Great buy.


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    Any possibility of finding out who the owner(s) before the guy you got the Kar from and contacting them? Might answer all your questions.


    It does appear that the front fender(s) were changed. Look at the core support and fender aprons for any sign of collision damage/repair (wrinkling, straightening, welding) that would tell you if the car was hit in the front. If the fenders have been changed you can always tell by closely examining the car. There will be welds where there shouldn't be, the gaps won't be right, etc. Even though the one fender has a compatible date code it still could have been changed. It's so unlikely that anyone would have gone to so much effort to do all the GT mods and not do the GT badges, the most obvious of all the GT items, that it's much more likely the GT badges were left off when the fenders were replaced.


    I have 2 friends who have '66 San Jose GT cars (I have a '66 SJ non-GT convert). I was able to take a look at one of them yesterday and while I did not have your pics available for a comparison, I did look at the fog light switch, drilled hole, etc. and everything on that car looked to me the same as on your car. From what I can see I would agree with your conclusions that your car is a GT. Hopefully you can eventually solve any issues like the GT badges missing and determine that it for sure is a GT.


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    Well I just did that tonight. Drivers side is 5 16 2 and passengers side is 1 14 3. Car was built in June. So it looks like at least the passenger side is not original correct?


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    Looks like a GT to me, from what I can see. Nice car, you're very lucky to have found it. I've bought several cars from Denver, good place to find nice collector cars and not far from SLC. Thanks for posting the pics, enjoyed them. If you decide to sell it you know who to go to..... ME!!!


    Edited by - LuvKcodes on 10/19/2006 12:19:08

    If I were going to store the car I'd change the oil in the fall but since I drive them every couple of weeks year around I change it whenever I think it needs doing. Probably doesn't make much difference if you do it in the spring or fall if the car isn't going to be run since the oil, and any contaminants in it, is just going to sit in the oil pan and can't hurt the engine there.


    Some cars run cleaner than others, newer cars for instance and the oil stays cleaner longer. But some cars run too rich so gas gets in the oil. This is very bad for the engine. When you check your oil, smell the dipstick, if it smells like gas, change the oil. If the car runs clean it won't need to be changed as often. Gas is a solvent and as such breaks down oil, that's why oil needs to be changed often, every 3000 miles is what many recommend. I don't drive my oldies 3000 miles a year so I just do about yearly or sooner if I think it needs it.


    Edited by - LuvKcodes on 10/14/2006 00:21:06

    I try to drive each car at least every couple of weeks. Keep them in a dry garage and this is a dry climate. Even in winter there will be some dry days I can take them out for a run a few times. I never let them get wet and the garage is always warmer in winter than outside. I always disconnect the neg battery cable, I've seen guys lose cars and garages from fires, I've had wiring burn up in a couple of cars myself. If I'm not actually driving it the cable is off. Don't need to trickle charge battery, just drive it every couple of weeks, the battery will stay up fine unless it's got a dead cell. Because the cars are inside most of the time the batteries don't get hot and cold extremes that often so tend to last a lot longer. I change the oil at least once a year, use Mobil 1 in most cars, check fluids, tires, etc regularly.

    Just to clarify; Are you saying that backup lights were not available on GT cars but were available on cars built in early 1965 before the GT package was available?


    I have the sales order from February, 1965 (prior to being able to order a GT) for a car with the backup lights option and also the MSRP invoice for the car which was built and delivered in March, 1965 that also shows the backup lights option. Therefore, this documents that backup lights were a factory option prior to the GT package becoming available. Why, only a short time later, would Ford not offer the backup lights option on GT cars? Was it only because of the GT exhaust valance? I assume backup lights continued to be available on non-GT cars?


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    Backup lights were not a factory option when '65 GT's became available for ordering. The dealer price list that came out in April '65 specifically notes on the sheet that backup lights are not available with the GT equipment group. In '66, they were standard equipment on all models.

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