Posts by round2K_old

It's not uncommon to go to a show and find that there are more fake HiPo's and fake GT's than the real things.

Unless there's been a new development, there aren't any repros of that particular style of pedal available. The early disc brake pedal and the early gas pedals without the trim ring indentations are still, as yet, not reproduced. The images below are from the gas pedal of an unresotred 10/64 SJ car.

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The early style clutch pedal without the indentation is available as a repro from a number of suppliers now and it's a good quality part.

Call Joe Tonieto at Waldron's and he'll help you out. I think he's making the H pipes now.

This is from a GM site, but the head should be about the same:

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The pivot mount on the block is also different:

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Mike,

I sent you a PM.

Dave Wallace

Mark,

What is the issue you're trying to resolve? Does the car start and run?

Picky, picky - you concours guys are all the same:)

The catalog is in error; that style of tunnel is found on all early cars that have the early style brake cables. The image below is of an early style cable from an unrestored 65 SJ FB. The notch in between the two pieces of rubber is where the cable bracket goes to fasten it to the frame. Inline Tube is the only company I am familiar with that sells reproductions of both the early and late-style cables. Unfortunately I don't know when the production change to place. The correct brackets and bolts are shown below courtesy of Charles' K blog spot.

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Looks like spring cleaning!

Private dealer advertisement for the car asking $79K (same as ebay):

http://www.rockwallautodirect.com/web/2324/vehic…-Rockwall-Texas

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OK, its a 1965 K-Code..why is that important? Read on!!!

Answer: The K-Code was a 1965 Mustang that came from the factory with a special 289 High Performance cubic-inch engine under the hood. Each K-Code Mustang had a special badge on their front fenders that read “HIGH PERFORMANCE 289” and more importantly, major engine mods. For starters this engine featured upgraded pistons, cylinder heads, carburetor, lifter heads, and connecting rods. A quick peek under the hood reveals the chrome air cleaner, valve covers and "289 High Performance" badging (this Mustang pushed 271 HP!!! The giveaway for the K-code Ponys were the "K" in the VINs for these Mustangs (see pics) and no power steering or AC (no need for that fluff in this performance minded project!). But the differences were not only under the hood. In fact, the entire driveline of these cars was designed for performance which included a high-performance clutch, drive shaft, rear differential, and suspension.

This an important piece of American car history, with less than 150 registered for that year. This one was once owned by Gunnar and Matthew Nelson! This one was restored meticulously with frame-off, MCA concourse-quality. The original motor was rebuilt at this time with factory le-Mans connecting rods! This car has a history of making appearances in Speed TV, Phoenix Life Magazine and Mustangs Illustrated as well as collecting numerous awards in its life! She comes with a dealer installed GT upgrade package and dealer installed AC. Call for any questions, we love to talk about this particular ride!!!

Collectors, here is what you really want to know: This is a matching numbers car, the build codes are as follows.

Body Color Trim Date DSO Axle Transmission

76B J F5 05B 75 5 5

If you have any specific questions on the car, please call Billy Railsback at (972) 342-9377.

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For sale by a dealer in Texas for $48K:

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K-Code 1965 Mustang Fastback with GT upgrades, nuff said!!!

The K-Code was a 1965 Mustang that came from the factory with a special 289 High Performance cubic-inch engine under the hood. Each K-Code Mustang had a special badge on their front fenders that read “HIGH PERFORMANCE 289” and more importantly, major engine mods. For starters this engine featured upgraded pistons, cylinder heads, carburetor, lifter heads, and connecting rods. A quick peek under the hood reveals the chrome air cleaner, valve covers and "289 High Performance" badging (this Mustang pushed 271 HP!!! The giveaway for the K-code Ponys were the "K" in the VINs for these Mustangs (see pics) and no power steering or AC (no need for that fluff in this performance minded project!). But the differences were not only under the hood. In fact, the entire driveline of these cars was designed for performance which included a high-performance clutch, drive shaft, rear differential, and suspension.

This an important piece of American car history, with only a few hundred produced that year. This one comes with a dealer installed GT upgrade package. Call for any questions, we love to talk about this particular ride!!!

Collectors, here is what you really want to know: This is a matching numbers car, the build codes are as follows.

Body Color Trim Date DSO Axle Transmission

63B J F5 15R 75 5 5

If you have any specific questions on the car, please call Billy Railsback at (972) 342-9377

Display More

http://www.rockwallautodirect.com/web/2324/vehic…-Rockwall-Texas

Way to go!

I don't believe there were any Ford specified sealants applied to compression fittings when the K codes were new. It might be OEM now, but was it OEM then?

A compression fitting is not the same as a pipe thread fitting, and using sealants on them is asking for trouble and a mess in your carburetor or a leak. It's a simple mechanical joint.

If he has to get down the road for a show and it's a successful emergency repair, then perhaps it would work. As a long term solution, I wouldn't recommend it.

Quote from GTBullitt

Yes the old and new lines are SS. When I picked this car up 8 years ago it had SS with a non Button top fuel pump. No leaks no problems, I guess I'll pull a little harder on my flare nut wrench just don't want bust a $$$ pump

You have to use two wrenches or you will damage something. You need an open-end flare nut wrench for the fuel pump side and a flare nut wrench for the fuel line side or you will definitely bugger the nut or the pump. You cannot properly torque the line nut without a wrench on the fuel pump.

Quote from GTBullitt

Oh yes I did, if I turn it anymore I think I break it. At this rate I'll be driving my 2001 Bullitt to Carlisle PA. next week you know with A/C power steering/brakes 5 speed 460 mach radio, boy will this be a hard trip.

If I understand your previous post you've tried two different pumps and two different lines. Based on that, it sounds like you're not getting the compression flare to seat, and it's rarely the pump end that's the problem, it's usually the line. If you haven't tried this you should give it a shot: set the two flare nut wrenches in place - one on the fitting and one on the fuel pump - so that they are aligned in a way that you can forcefully squeeze them together single-handedly, rather than pushing or pulling with arm strength. When you get them in the right location then go for it and really squeeze. If you haven't seated the flare properly in your previous attempts then using that approach will show you how much you have to go to get the compression flare to conform to the fuel pump. When you think it's tight, go some more and you will feel the line confirming to the pump.

The odds of you having two bad fuel lines are pretty low, and the odds it being either of the fuel pumps are astronomically low. With four separate parts to choose from and there still being a problem it's probably not the parts, it's the method of installation. When it comes to double flared compression fittings like brake and fuel lines what you may think it tight isn't! When you've worked as a mechanic (and there are quite a few of us old school guys on the forum) for a living you recognize how much effort it takes to get a challenging compression fitting tight enough to seat when there is a different combination of parts, i.e. different fuel line to different pump. It takes a lot more effort at tightening than you might think, and the fitting won't break. Instead, the line will go that little extra distance and the flare will conform. In my experience it's about an eighth to a quarter revolution of the nut beyond what you think is tight. Whatever you do, never use a sealant or teflon tape on a compression fitting as the sealing only takes place at the face of the flaring.

Have you tried using a pair of flare nut wrenches and cranking down to seat the compression fitting? You shouldn't have to use a sealant or tape, and if you do you'll likely end up with some of it in the carburetor. Seating an old line with a different pump can sometimes require quite a bit of effort to seat the line.

I thought this was the general discussion section; I must have took a wrong turn. Next time I'll go over to the convertible pace car forum and post:)

Given that H&M prepped the motor, that's where I thought the interest would be.

For sake of clarity here fellows I didn't start this thread stating the pace cars were K codes. I just thought it was cool that one had surfaced and we had some decent information on the modifications as there were only a few of them (convertibles).

Although the documents are always cool to have, the car will tell the real story. It would require a pretty active imagination and a lot of effort to fabricate period correct correspondence. As a result, I would give the authenticity of the documents the benefit of the doubt until they were carefully scrutinized and proven otherwise.