Posts by round2K_old

It was probably balanced during its life.

Regarding your timing cover: If you have the engine level ("L" date off of the original tag) it will be easier to identify and zero in.

You need Bob Mannel's book, it is an essential reference and you can buy it on line directly from him:

http://www.fordsmallblock.com/

There were a couple of different valve cover configurations depending upon whether or not you have a PCV valve. I believe your car would not have had PCV if it was that early, so you should not have a hole in the right side cover for the valve.

Sorry these aren't fully informed or more help, but at least they will help keep your thread going.

I'm looking for an original early dome lid. Buy or trade for other parts. Please PM if you have one and want to sell or deal.

When was the change made from the early dome lid to the later flat lids?

You might want to post this in K parts.

The mufflers show up occasionally on ebay for $100 - $300 bucks. There is an ebay seller, flyingfred, who you might email. He is a member here and he occasionally has one. Hang in there and one will turn up. Many people converted over to later style GT exhaust with the resonators, so there isn't a lot of demand for them. (Except those of us with tranverse dual hipos!)

Napa has them for about $25 bucks. They don't carry the secondary diaphragm or any of the odd parts like the secondary check ball. You can get those parts from John Earnyardt at Pony Carbs in New Mexico.

I have seen fuel pump canisters in white and cad color. Which is correct?

For anyone searching, don't give up hope: there have been three button-top fuel pumps sold on ebay in the past week. One 3911 and two 3939's, rebuilt and new in the $300-500 dollar range.

I'm with Laki;I drive it when the rains let up.

Does anyone have any of the auxiliary fuel pump springs to convert the 3911 fuel pumps to dual springs?

You may already have considered this, but once you start attaching structural components like roll bars you really can devalue the car.

As a general practice we used denatured alcohol for flushing disassembled brake systems of contaminents for many years in my shop. It is still readily available in most hardware stores. We would also use it in race cars when changing from one brake fluid brand or DOT rating to another. The chemical property of denatured alcohol removes water from lines & other components.

I don't know if silicone brake fluid causes swelling as mentioned in earlier posts. Silicone is a rubber preservative, not a solvent.

Next question then: what kind of ink? Paint on an ink pad?

Is it viable to try and reproduce the ink stamps? I've seen the Paint OK stamps discussed on the VMF board. Can artwork be reproduced in a way that an ink stamp company can replicate the original coil & starter stamps?

I know there is a lot of detail in this question:

I'm seeking a full list of engine compartment/underhood decals and labels for my car. Given that it is a 12/30/64 San Jose car with MT, what ink stamps and/or decals should be under the hood? What items, locations and quality would satisfy MCA councours driven scrutiny. I've looked through Olson, NPD, etc catalogs, but don't have enough knowledge to know what's right and wrong in the offerings. I'd like to go for the wiring loom labels too. Any help appreciated.

I've never seen any casting numbers on the linkage rods. My guess is they probably didn't have them. Hopefully someone else can contribute.

A patient guy can assemble the system by picking off the individual parts here & there on ebay. No need to take out a second mortgage for the thing.

Perhaps he considers California another country......?

Coule of questions:

Are those tow hooks on the front?

Is this an unusual or unique color combination? If so, how would you validate it?

That one looked beat, literally.